Les Parfums de Rosine were established in 1911 by designer Paul Poiret with his wife Denise at 107 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore in Paris. Rosine sold perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics as fitting accessories for his avant garde fashions. The company was named after Poiret's eldest daughter. Many artists and illustrators worked for Rosine. Poiret lost financial control around 1925 and the business was later acquired by Societe Centrale de la Parfumerie Francais (L. Legrand) in 1930 and managed by Madame Nevarte Cordero. Most of the existing Rosine perfumes were produced until the 1950s in standard presentations.
Poiret's perfumes were created with the help of the perfumer-glassmaker Maurice Schaller, and later with the celebrated Almeras. The perfume names evoked the exotic with names such as Le Fruit Defendu, Borgia, Nuit de Chine, Le Balcon, and Shakhyamuni. Nuit de Chine was created by Maurice Schaller and was originally called Nuit d'Orient.
The perfume Coeur en Folie was introduced at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris.
The perfume bottles for Rosine were produced by Depinoix and Lefebure as well as Poiret's own companies Atelier Colin & Atelier Martine. Most of the bottles were hand painted at Atelier Martine. The packaging of his perfumes resembled the look and materials of his fashions, with great emphasis on vivid colors, opulent textures and harlequin and Oriental lampshade patterns. Arlequinade was directly inspired by harlequin and had gilded triangles on its bottle along with a Bakelite cap shaped like a tricorne hat.
The Perfumes of Rosine:
1922 Antinea Toute le Foret
1922 Antinea Ou Au Fond De La Mer
The company was created by Prince Georges V. Matchabelli who was not only a previous Georgian Prince of Georgian Prince and ambassador to Italy, but also was an amateur chemist who began creating perfumes for his friends and family as a hobby. George was a Russian exile who fled the Soviet Union and immigrated to the USA after the Russian Revolution. He and his wife, Princess Norina Matchabelli (an actress whose stage name was Maria Carmi), opened a small antiques shop Le Rouge et le Noir at 545 Madison Avenue. The name derived from Stendhal's novel, red for aristocracy (Matchabelli's origins) and black for clergy (The Miracle, a religious play). They later established the Prince Matchabelli Perfume Company in 1926.Perfumes were personally blended for clients. The first three perfumes were Princess Norina, Queen of Georgia and Ave Maria. The company became known for the many color-coded, crown-shaped bottles that housed such well-known perfume brands as The crown-shaped bottle was designed by Norina after the Matchabelli crown and was introduced in 1928 with labels on the underside. Matching cosmetic cases and sets with miniature crowns.
Dating your bottles: The older Matchabelli crown shaped bottles are all glass, including the cross shaped stopper. These bottles seem to command higher prices than the plastic versions. The older bottles have colored glass, the later bottles are colored enamel over glass. The tallest bottles stand 6 1/4" tall and the smallest measure just 1 5/6" tall. The 1950s mini versions omit the cross and have a simple brass or plastic screw cap, these bottles measure 1 5/8" tall and 1 1/4" tall.

Added attraction,Princess Norina & Queen of Georgia

Crown Jewel

Ave Maria

Beloved & Duchess of York

Katharine the Great

Wind Song
Around 1880, a small pharmacy was opened in New York city and sold perfumes, cosmetics and assorted toiletries. Richard Hudnut, the son of the proprietor of the shop, became the first American selling luxury perfume presentations, (though some of these were created in France) in an elegant shop which was directly influenced by the French and European perfumeries. In 1916, the company was sold to Henry & Gustavus Adolphus Pfeiffer and Richard Hudnut was no longer involved in the business. As a result of this, Gustavus Adolphus became the president of the Richard Hudnut Company. In the 1920s, the company had expanded into Europe, and acquired the French style. The company proudced several luxurious presentations during the 1920s but the quality of designs declined gradually starting in the 1930s and right on thru to the 1950s.When Richard Hudnut opened a new shopat 20 rue de la Paix, Paris in 1927, he introduced four new blends of perfumes called Le Debut. Each perfume was of the same Art Deco octagonal shape, but had it's own color to suggest four different moods. Original boxes are rare to find, but if you are lucky enough you might find that Le Debut Vert came in a green box, Le Debut Blanc came in a white box, Le Debute Noir came in a red box and Le Debut Bleu came in a blue box. The rarest bottle color is the white bottle. The perfume bottles came in five different sizes from 5 1/8" tall to diminutive 1 1/4" tall bottles. Matching compacts and vanity cases were also sold.




Please do not confuse this bottle with the blue 1987 bottle for LouLou by Cacharel, the stoppers are completely different.

In the early years of the turn of the century, Ernest Daltroff, was beginning to get fascinated by scent and fragrance creation. So in 1903, Daltroff purchased a perfumery in Asnieres called Parfumerie Emilia, a northwestern suburb of Paris, Daltroff's first perfume was named Royal Emilia, after the shop. His business was such a success that he purchased another small perfumery and haberdashery store from Anna-Marie Caron, called the Magasin Caron at 10 rue de la Paix, in the fashionable heart of Paris and renamed it Parfumerie Caron. He liked the name and decided it would be easy for his customers to pronounce in any language and remember as well as looking good on packaging. The perfume Royal Emilia was renamed Royal Caron in 1904..
As the clientele grew, he took on a partner, Felicie Vanpouille, a young dressmaker, and Daltroff's lover. She was made the artistic director of the company and was responsible for design and packaging. Many of the perfume flacons used by Caron were designed by Felicie, such as Chantecler, Royal Emilia, and others. But her best known design was for the bottle of Narcisse Noir. This bottle was so popular that it was being copied by other companies for their own versions of Narcisse perfumes.
The firm continued to prosper and exported perfumes to the United States, South America, England. They opened a branch in 1923 in New York to satisfy their American cliente. Subsequently the firm expanded in the years between the wars and was awarded the Legion d'Honneur by the French Government for its outstanding economic achievements.
Ernest fled to the United States two years before the start of World War II, he died in 1941. Felicie later remarried and her new name was Felicie Bergaud,and continued to run the firm until she sold it in 1962.
The three most sought after perfume bottle from Caron are Adastra, Alpona and Voeu de Noel. These three perfumes were presented at the Worlds Fair in 1939.
Several bottles were produced by Baccarat, so be sure to check the base of your perfume for any markings, the perfume bottles are for Narcisse Noir, Or et Noir, Fete de Roses, Lady Caron, Bellodgia, Tabac Blond, Fleur de Rocaille, Poivre, With Pleasure, Nuit de Noel.
Rose de Noel's bottle was produced by Lalique.
History:
Jean Francois Houbigant established his famous company at the tender age of 23, in 1774. The modest shop was located at no. 19 rue de Faubourg Saint-Honore, Paris and was named "A la Corbeille de Fleurs". His first products were toilet waters, scented gloves and powders.
In 1872, most of the products from the House of Houbigant were sold to the French aristocracy, nobility, clergy and the best known names in France. Among his most famous clients were Queen Marie Antoinette, who reportedly hurried to Houbigant to get her perfume bottles refilled with Eau de Mousseline and Eau de Millefleurs before fleeing from Paris.
The company survived the French Revolution and was passed on to Jean-Francois’s son and then to Chardin, another perfumer, who was appointed Napoleon III’s personal perfumer. In his book Memories of Saint-Helena, Victor Masson wrote that Napoleon’s wife Josephine was a devoted patron of Houbigant, and when her beloved husband lay dying, she had two of Houbigant’s perfumed pastilles burning in his bedroom.
Other famous clients included Princess Adelaide d’Orleans in 1829, Queen Victoria of England in 1838, the Emperor Napoleon III in 1870, and the Tsar of Russia in 1890, all appointed Houbigant as their royal perfumer.
After Chardin, two other perfumers acquired the company, Magny and Gabillot.
In 1881, the company was acquired by Javal & Paul Parquet, who was one of the first to use synthetics in his perfume creations. He was also the creator of the first fougere fragrance called Fougere Royale.
Around the turn of the century, another perfumer joined Houbigant, Robert Bieniame, who became the assistant to and protege of Paul Parquet, created the classic perfume Quelques Fleurs. Often regarded as the first true multi-floral scent, Quelques Fleurs was the springboard for this type of perfume.
At the 1900 Paris Exhibition, Houbigant introduced a special perfume, Coeur de Jeanette in honour of the exhibition, this scent was created by Paul Parquet. Houbigant participate din all major exhibitions and presentations ranged from luxury to low-priced.
The perfume bottle for the 1903 perfume Les Violettes was designed by the master glassmaker, Emilie Galle.
The 1911 fragrance La Rose France was created by Paul Parquet and named after the variety of rose which enjoyed great popularity during this time.
The Perfumes of Houbigant, starting from the most recent:
About some other Houbigant perfumes:
Ideal: launched in 1900, was the first composite perfume and a great success for many years. Its creator, Javal, took the idea for the box design from an Oriental carpet he had seen at Deauville.
Quelques Fleurs: created in 1912, was one of the first floral bouquet ever produced. The unique composition, includes lilac, rose, jasmine, violet and orchid.
Etude: presented in 1931, was the classic Thirties perfume The bottle rests on a silver plated base and is encased in a box of varnished wood.
Raffinee: introduced in 1982, it is composed of over two hundred ingredients, combining floral and oriental notes, including jasmine, rose and hyacinth, laced with spices, herbs and incense, The name is intended to evoke a certain refined elegance, as reflected in the packaging of lacquered red and gold.
Ciao: is a rich, floral-chypre fragrance, created around the essence of acanthus, a rare oriental flower, blended with jasmine, hyacinth and cassis, The woody, mossy base note is comprised of oak moss, sandalwood, and patchouli. First presented in 1980
Jean Patou was born in 1887 in the Basque region and died in 1936 at the age of only 49. By the age of 23, he moved to Paris and was already a successful dressmaker and tailor In 1923, he purchased a small shop, Maison Parry and had adopted the Patou name. His popularity grew among a loyal, private clientele and he subsequently founded his fashion and perfume house where he presented his premiere collection in 1919. This proved to be such a great success that he opened a office in New York to fill the demand for his American clients. He also expanded his business to the Coin des Sports boutique, a shop in Deauville and a summer house of couture in Biarritz..
He was the first to introduce sportswear for women, including tennis skirts, tennis shorts, knitted bathing suits, jersey cardigans and introduced complementary accessories for his clothes, putting his monogram on them where it would be seen. Another first was the first suntan lotion, women of the 1920s started sunbathing to attain the bronzed glow from the sun, and Patou introduced Huile de Chaldee. Huile de Chaldee was named after an ancient city in Babylonia that was legendary for its beautiful, amber skinned beauties.
Patou was among the first couturiers to include perfumes as part of a collection. He introduced his first three perfumes together in 1925, Amour Amour, Que Sais-Je?, and Adieu Sagesse, created with the help of Paul Poiret's perfumer, Henri Almeras. Patou also installed a cocktail bar for the gentleman while their ladies were being fitted for their haute couture. In 1930, he created a perfume bar for the amusement of his clients, encouraging them to concoct their own fragrances.
Jean Patou wanted to send a gift of appreciation to his many regular international clients who would be unable to visit Paris in that first year of the Great Depression. He asked Almeras to create something very strong, yet simple, no matter what the cost. This lead to the creation of the costliest perfume in the world, Joy. The predominant ingredients of Bulgarian rose and jasmine-one ounce, it is said requires 10,000 jasmine flowers and 28 dozen roses. The bottle was produced in three different designs. The first one, was designed to classical proportions by Louis Sue, the second was inspired by Jean Patou's own collection of antique Chinese snuff bottles, and the third was a cut crystal flacon produced by Baccarat.
Vantine's Oriental Store was a well known gift store that specialized in imported wares "from the Empires of Japan, China, India, China, Persia and the East". It was founded in 1869 by AA Vantine in New York City, establishing one of the first stores to import Oriental goods.Most of their incense burners were also imported from France. Vantine's supplied a touch of the exotic to Americans during the craze for all things Oriental.
Some commonly found items from Vantine's are the metal incense burners imported from France, incense tins, fans, postcards, advertisements, mahjonng sets, vases, Japanese dolls,and powder boxes.
The less commonly found items are:
Original Vantine's labels on these goods are scarce.
The company also provided mail order catalogues so that customers could "rest comfortably at home in your easy chair, and, at your leisure, select by mail, with absolute confidence, from the largest collection of Oriental goods in America".
Vantine's also had a fan catalog featuring over 100 different fan styles made of bamboo, bone, gauze, sandalwood, paper, silk and some with sequin spangled decorations. The 1906 ad stated that fans make souvenirs and gifts for cotillions, bridesmaids, weddings, dinners, and all other occasions.
On a darker note, Vantine's was bought in 1926 by mob gangster Arnold Rothstein who used the store as a front for his business in drug smuggling. Since Vantine's was a legitimate business with an excellent reputation, customs officials gave the shipments only a cursory search. This drug trafficking operation through Vantine's only lasted until 1928, when Rothstein was murdered.
The perfumes and toiletries listed below are ones that I have found in original advertisements, the dates given are from what year I saw them in an ad, they may have been introduced earlier, but I have no exact proof just yet.
The Perfumes of Vantine's:
Dana was established in Barcelona in 1921 by Javier Serra (former director of Myrurgia of Spain). The company then moved to Paris in 1932 at 9 rue de la Paix. The company was named after the Greek goddess Danae and this idea was incoporated into the Dana logo, which consisted of a beautiful woman's head, taken from a sculpture by Mariano Andreu.
Dana perfume took over many other companies such as Corday, Helena Rubinstein, Cover Girl, Shulton, Max Factor, Houbigant and Jaclyn Smith perfumes. Dana bought out the rights to these companies and produced their perfumes, sometimes reformulating them and keeping the original well known names, you will recognize some of these below.
The perfumes and colognes of Dana:
In this guide I have listed several different obscure or little known early French perfume companies and the vintage perfumes they produced. I have also included some Spanish, German and Italian companies. Many of these companies were shortlived or only created one perfume. Some companies will be found here as there isn't enough info to warrant their own guide. Information is very scant on these companies. Any extraneous information will be appreciated and will be added.
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Erizma, established in 1885 by J. Bijon and created rare luxury presentations. They also were exporters to the far East:
Guyla, established in 1926 at 40 rue de Paris, Epinay-sur-Seine, they made exceptional rare presentations:
Oviatt, department store in Los Angeles, California. the Oviatt Building was completed in 1927, and had Lalique glass panels. Lalique also created their bell shaped perfume bottle:
Felix Boissard, a British-French company, established around 1900 by John-Ernest Jewel, (a probable predecessor in France was Pennes Fils et Broissard). Affiliated to and represented by Heppels Ltd :
Nice-Flore, established in 1919 at 54 route du Var, Nice, France, by Union Francaise de Parfumerie et de Maroquinerie, they sold leather goods and perfumes, some presentations used bottles by Maurice Depinoix:
Pierre Dune, established in 1939 at 49 rue de Prony, Paris by Edmond Rosens, the first five perfumes were presented as potted plants in a flower cart:
Maurice Bertrand Carrere of Paris France,established in 1945 at 45 rue Pierre-Charron, Paris, very shortlived company:
Les Parfums de Mistinguett:
Monna Vanna, established in 1920 in Britain, then moved to at 120-122 rue Borghese, Neuilly (Seine) France. The name was adopted from the title of the play by Maeterlinck. They produced luxurious presentations. :
A. Bertelli (of 26 via Paolo Frisi, Milan Italy), produced pharmaceuticals. Their luxurious presentations were produced in France:
Mori of Paris France:
Ramey, established in 1913 at 332 rue Saint-Honore, Paris by Georges Herman as Laboratoires des Produits Radiaces:
De Luzy, established in 1917 at 5 rue Ybry, Neuilly (Seine), by Progalia SA :
Biette, established in 1892 by Alexis Biette. They had branches in major cites in Europe, Africa and the USA. The produced spectacular soap sets, often humorous. They started introducing superb perfume presentations in the 1920s:
Fracy of Paris France, established in 1922. They produced novelty perfumes as well as luxurious Viard presentations:
Pelissier-Aragon,Les Fontaines Parfums Grasse. Established by E. Alziary, became Alziary Fils in 1850, became Alziary et Barbe in 1863 and then Pelissier-Aragon in 1887 until 1924 when Emile-Andre Pelissier coined the appealing trade name "Les Fontaines Parfumees Grasse":
Lydes of 29 rue Auguste Bailly, Courbevoie (Seine) France, established in 1918 by Eugene Philippe Rodier. Their most successful perfume was their first, Ambre des Pagodes, which interestingly did not bear the name Lydes. The company became well known practically overnight and exported their luxurious presentations worldwide:
Ysiane of 38 rue d'Enghien,Paris France. Established around 1925 and although the company was shortlived, they managed to produce some charming presentations. They were affiliated to La Diaphane:
1926 le collier de perles
Delyna of 21 rue de la Breche-aux-Loups,Paris France. Established in 1925 by Maxime Patraud. acquired in 1945 by Cuban perfumer Bienvenido Fernandez:
Jacques Heim. Couture house of Isidore & Jeanne Heim established a fur business in 1898, their son Jacques introduce day and evening wear in the 1920s and sold perfumes to their clients in 1930 and introduced them to the public around 1945:
Paquin of Paris France, couture house of Jeanne Paquin, introduced perfumes and cosmetics in 1939 and the house closed in 1962:
Fragonard of Paris France, established in 1782 and known then as P. Mottet et Cie and Cresp. Martinenq. The company went bankrupt in 1914 and was acquired by Eugene Fuchs, who introduced interesting presentations in the 1920s an dinto the 1940s:
Rochambeau of New York City & Paris, a Franco-American company established in 1923 by Xavier Rochambeau and Robert Coudert de Saint-Chament. They specialized in French made medium and low priced novelty perfumes, very small and toy like, thin, blown glass bottles for export to the USA. Some of their perfume bottles are tiny glass balls in the shape of grape bunches or little square dice. They were affiliated to La Gourde du Poete, whose style is similar:
Lerys of Paris France, established in 1921 by Leon Bellon, produced luxurious presentations:
Doeuillet-Doucet of Paris France, couture house formed y merger of Doeillet and Doucet in 1929 and the company closed in 1932:
Jaspy of Paris, established around 1919 and subtitled "Parfums Modernes et Originaux" :
Murcy:
Sari:
Charles Fay, established in 1850 by Charles Fay and called Maison Fay. They were best known for their powder Veloutine, and therefore changed their name to Parfumere Veloutine. They won a gold medal at the 1900 Exposition:
Marques de Elorza of Paris France,was established by Avran Moscovici, a perfumer; at 73 avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris in 1926. They produced interesting and luxurious presentations in the 1920s, then after 1930, perfumes of lesser quality were produced. The company was also affiliated with Chenier and Parfums de Paul.
Parfums Loulette:
Bryenne of Paris France, established in 1911 by Jacques Brach:
Dorin, established in 1780 as a small cosmetics shop specializing in theatrical makeup, by famous actress Mademoiselle Montansier. Company was bought and sold several times and fell into the hands of JM Dorin in 1817. They exported world wide and won the gold medal in 1900:
Gal of Madrid Spain, established in 1900 and produced many luxury presentations and cosmetics:
Moiret of Paris, made perfumes during the 1920s:
JG Mouson & Co (of Frankfurt Germany):
Claire of Paris France, elegant Paris shop specializing in luxury fashions and perfumes, established in 1924 by Rodney Wanamaker (a mamber of the founding family of John Wanamaker, department stores in the USA):
Mme A. Girard et Cie of London, small prestigious company established in the late 19th century:
Jean Giraud Fils, established in 1853 as Giraud Freres, later known as J. Giraud Fils, acquired by various essential oils producers in Grasse, such as Honore-Joseph Sozio in 1900. They had large exports to South America:
Nissery of Asnieres, (Seine) France, established in 1921 by Jules-Joanin-Anatole Muraour. The company was affiliated to Mury. They produced elegant presentations:
Agnel of Paris France:
Louis Avenel of Paris, established in 1900 and had major exports to Great Britain. Some of their presentations featured Viard bottles:
1920 que veux-tu?
Lioret:
Rodin of Paris, established in 1946 by Norman SARL:
A. Euziere of Grasse, France, established in 1887 as Societe Euziere et Seytre. Became Henri Euziere et Cie in 1920, created some suberb presentations featuring Viard bottles:
Griet (of Buenos Aires,Argentina):
Clamy of Paris France, established in 1913 by Philippe de Back as Les Parfums de Clamy, The presentations featured luxurious Gaillard bottles. The company was acquired by Grenoville in 1943.
Coudray of Paris France, established in 1810 as a small cosmetics and perfume shop called Maugenet & Coudray. They became a major exporter during the 19th century and remained a family business until 1908 when Edouard Colmant acquired an interest. The company produced many luxury presentations:
Maudy of Colombes (Seine) France, established in 1928 by Adrienne Foym affiliated to de Musset and produced luxury presentations:
Drecoll, courture house in Paris,introduced perfumes in 1927 , then from 1929, sold perfumes under the Maggy Rouff name. Marcel Guerlain purchased Drecoll in 1944:
Plassard of Paris France, established in 1815 as Demarson, later Demarson et Cie. Demarson-Chetelat and Chetalat et Cie. The company exhibited regularly in 1819, 1839, 1844, 1849, 1855, 1867, and 1878, under the various names over the years. they were awarded many prizes at the exhibitions. Louis Plassad purchased the company in 1894 and renamed it L. Plassard. their most impressive presentations were before 1930, after 1930, their quality lessened:
Marquis of Paris, active during the 1920s and produced toiletries, perfumes and cosmetics, as well as producing such items for other perfumers and under their own name, primarily for export:
Saint Cyr of Paris France:
Altair:
Cadolle Freres of Paris France, established in 1889 as a corset shop in Buenos aires by Herminie Cadolle, opened Paris shop in 1910 as a family busines with fashionable clientele.Their perfumes were introduced in 1926:
Maggy Rouff, couture house established in 19th century, perfumes were introduced in 1927 and baccarat was a supplier of bottles. The company merged with Drecoll in 1929, the company was renamed Maggy Rouff in 1930 and Rouff perfumes were available until the 1940s:
Bruyere of Paris, couture house established in 1924 by Marie-Louise Bruyere and introduced perfumes around 1940:
Miro Dena, established around 1900 by Mirona B and Frederick Hubbard in Syracuse, New York. They later opened a store at 373 Fifth Avenue ,New York. They were very successful in the 1920s and produced French luxury presentations. The company was bought by Lancelle around 1930.
Mumtaz, was the marketing division of the India Importing Co, and launched fragrances in the 1930's. Most of the perfumes are in the solid form and iwll bein celluloid or bakelite containers, much akin to those manufactured for Molinard's Concreta. The Mumtaz ones are different from Molinard because they are small round disk shaped containers. The originally Arabic (masculine) adjective, Mumtaz, means distinguished or excellent. Arabs do not use it as a common name. The term was later adopted by Urdu, Persian and Turkish.
L'Institut de Beaute, of 26 place Vendome, Paris. A beauty salon established in 1895 by Victor Francois Merle with Elise-Marie Valentin Le Brun. The salon sold cosmetics, toiletries and some of the finest limited edition perfume presentations, most likely only available at the Paris salon. The salon later moved to 222 rue de Rivoli, Paris. They sold products to the USA under the name Klytia, as this was an affiliated company established in 1895 by Merle.
Coudray of Paris France, originally established in 1810 by M. Maugenet and Dr. Edmond Coudray. They later opened a small cosmetics and perfume shop called Maugenet & Coudray located at 348 rue Saint-Honore, Paris in 1882. They became a major exporter during the 19th century and remained a family business until 1908 when Edouard Colmant acquired an interest. The company produced many luxury presentations:
The perfumes of Blondeau et Cie. This British-French company was established in around 1888 at Lever House, Victoria Embankment, Blackfriars, London. Though they were primarily a soap manufacturing company, they produced some beautiful perfume presentations up until 1930. They were also the proprietors of the Vinolia Company Ltd, manufacturers of ‘Vinolia preparations’; their agents were Robert & Co of 76, New Bond Street, London and also at 5 Rue de la Paix, Paris. The Vinolia Company Ltd was established sometime in 1898 at 37-38 Upper Thames Street, London and produced mainly soaps with a limited production of luxury perfume presentations starting in 1892. They later closed their London showrooms in 1939, but continued production under the Lever Brothers name until early 1960’s.
The perfumes of Vinolia:
Parfumerie de Burmann, was established in 1934 at a shop on the Champs-Elysees in France, and later at 4 rue de la Verrerie, Paris. The company name was derived from those of the joint founders, Stephane Burdin and Andre Baumann. The company produced modest presentations using opaque glass bottles from the Cristalleries de Nancy. Their most important perfume bottle was for the scent La Sirene, from 1935, presented in a bottle designed in 1912 by Rene Lalique. The perfume bottle for Le Rayon d'Or of 1929 was presented in a flacon by the Cristalleries de Baccarat, bottle design # 681.
Ganna Walska Perfumes, Inc. of Paris & New York.The company was established in 1927 by Ganna Walska (born Hanna Puacz), an untalented soprano opera singer originally from Poland, at 2 rue de la Paix, Paris and then opened a branch in Manhattan in 1928, to be a sister store to the one in Paris, where she obtained small orders from department stores.The shortlived company introduced its first perfume, Divorcons (Let's Divorce). Though she married six times, the singer was notorious for a highly publicized acrimonious divorce in 1920 from Alexander Smith Cochran, a multimillionaire and carpet tycoon.
Fontanis of Paris & Neuilly France, established in 1919 by Daniel Jacquet, also the founder of Madhva in 1923. Fontanis produced luxurious presentations and won a gold medal at the 1925 Paris Exposition. the Fontanis vignette was designed by Heymann and reproduced on labels and metal plaques:
Madhva, established in 1923 by Daniel Jacquet,also the founder of Fontanis in 1919:
Benoit, established in 1926 by Marco Barouh, of Barouh & Hermanos located at 10 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, Paris in 1926; in association with Garcia Anastasios Somoza established at 77 A Prado St Havana, Cuba; launched a range of fragrances between 1926 and 1942. Affiliated with Brecher.
Brecher Perfumery was established by Paul Brecher in Pontoise at Paris around 1910. The company was then taken over by a new owner, Jacques Ernest Mazurier in 1918,moved the company to 10 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, Paris. The company was affiliated with both perfume companies of Benoit and Marquis de Elorza. Brecher's Perfumes were labelled ‘Aux Perfumeries Reunies’.
Andre Chenier was a Franco-American perfumer based in New York during the 1920s-30s; they were affiliated with Marquis de Elorza; and launched own range of fragrances as well a supplying B. Altman department stores.
Parfums de Paul was established by D.P. Paul in 366 Fifth Avenue New York and Paris and active between the two World Wars producing novelties and luxury presentations; they were affiliated to Marquis de Elorza.
Nogara of Grasse France,established in 1902 by Louis-Francois Pelissier. Around 1910,a major branch opened in Paris. They were affiliated to Pellisier-Aragon. They created beautiful presentations using bottles by Maurice Depinoix:
Lanselle of Paris France, established in 1930 by Rene Lanselle and Francois de Perthuis. Interestingly, the names of their first perfumes used card game terminology such as Banco:
Jean de Parys of Paris France, established in 1914 by Jean Cousin in Nanterre (Seine) and produced luxury presentations. Bottles were designed by Andre Jollivet and some produced by Lalique:
Erasmic & Co of London. Erasmic was a successful soap name introduced by J, Crosfield & Sons in 1889. A seperate company was created for perfumes and named Erasmic and a wide range of products. Lalique designed the bottle for De Lui. The business was later acquired by Lever Brothers:
Zofaly of Paris France, established in 1930 by Jeanne Crespin in Montargis (Lioret):
Lorenzy Palanca. This company was established during the 19th century by Jules Lorenzy at 61 boulevard des dames, Marseilles, France. Although the business primarily sold soaps, around the turn of the century, they also sold perfumes, razors, toiletries and cosmetics with beautiful paper graphics and stunning label designs. The business was successful enough to open major branches in Algiers, Oran, Nice and Toulon, but went bankrupt in 1930. The name Lorenzy-Palanca was subsequently used by a new company, Societe Anonyme Andre Lorenzy.I have listed all the various perfume/soap names I could find from this company, and I know there are more out there, if I missed one, please let me know. These are few and far between. Though it is possible to find old soap labels on the internet, and repros. Remember, when finding labels, the scent names for soaps are always preceded with Savon, the French word for soap.
Martial et Armand, couture house of 10 place Vendome, Paris. Established in 1907 by Martial & Armand, independent designers. Became very successful, perfumes introduced in 1924, was in exsitence til the 1950s,their bottles were usally produced by Lalique.
Morny was established in 1910 in Regent Street, London. To convey the French image that was so desirable in the perfume market, the company added a "de" in front of its name. They sold luxurious French style presentations with perfumes with French names, The company was so successful in France that it opened a branch in Paris.
Little is known about the Salancy parfumerie. From what I gather, Salancy was established at 21 rue des Abeilles, Tours, France in 1913 by Henri Salmon and Henri Chancy. The two made the name Salancy from Salmon and Chancy. They produced cosmetics in addition to perfumes. The company was affiliated to Parfumerie Olga of Tours, France.
Saint Denis of Paris France & New York City.
Violet (Pronounced VEOLAY) Perfume Company of Paris France & New York City. You can also find the perfume company spelled Veolay. Veolay also manufactured compacts.
Silka.
Silka.Established by Maurice Roussel at 16 quai de la Megisserie, Paris in 1909. He was related to Parfumerie Roussel family which was established in 1852, producer of the very successful Eau Gorlier in the 19th century. Silka was mainly a manufacturer of refined and sophiosticated perfumes and cosmetics with romantic, original perfume names. Their perfumes of the 1910-1920s period were marked by striking and unusual luxury presentations. The company was shut down during World War II and continued operations after the war was over until around 1950. Company revived sometime in the late 1990’s.
Mury of Paris France. Established in 1917, Mury produced perfumes, cosmetics and toiletries. The company was affiliated with Henri Muraour, an important essential oils company founded in North Africa in 1789. They had branches in Algiers, Grasse & Paris. They became a major company in the 1920s with the success of the perfume Narcisse Bleu. Mury was known for their elegant presentations, but later made lower priced perfume presentations.
Favolys, established in 1925 at 1 rue Pierre-Joigneaux, Asnieres (Seine) France, by Rene Desseignes who also established Parfumerie Francis in 1924 and Rendes in 1924, all of these companies were very shortlived and their bottles are rare:
Pleville, Paris France, established in 1922 by Michel Pleville. they were affiliated to Dalon:
Dalon, established in 1924 and affiliated to Pleville:
Viville of Paris France, established in 1892 when Rene Albert Viville acquired Maison Camus, a company established in 1836 by Ernest Camus. They created low priced to luxury perfume presentations. Their best seller of the 19th century was the perfume Le Parfum des Femmes de France. The firm was later acquired by Yardley.:
Gelle Freres of Paris France, established in 1826 by the brothers Augustin & Jean-Baptiste Gelle after purchase of formulas and shop which previously belonged to Fargeon Jeune, descendant of perfumer to Louis XV. Augustin's father in law, Emile Lecaron succeeded him. The company became a major exporter and produced luxurious presentations. They were awarded many prizes and the gold medal in 1925. :
The perfumes of Chevalier Garde:
Clamy of Paris.Established in 1913 by Philippe de Back as Les parfumes de Clamy, Creations d'Art at Arcade des Champs-Elysees,Paris.The company produced luxury presentations featuring Gaillard bottles.The business was acquired by Grenoville in 1943.
Verlayne of Paris. Established in 1944 at 9 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore, Paris.
Marny of Paris France. Established sometime in the early 1900s and stayed in business until it was bought out by Jeunesse in 1945.Lalique produced a perfume bottle for Marny.
Les Parfums de Marcy.Established around 1910 possibly by Lazare Bloch at a small factory at Les Lilas. After becoming more successful a shop was opened at 120 avenue des Champs-Elysees in Paris.After the Second World War, the company was then affiliated with Societe Anonyme des Parfums Sidlay, with Paul Heymann as proprietor and true innovator. Many high quality presentations were created such as Les Fleurs Miraculeuses, Le Bouquet Miraculeux, Le Bracelet Miraculeux, and Le Collier Miraculeux.
Honore Payan. The company was situated in Grasse, France. Honore Payan established his perfumery company in 1854 in Grasse and then moved to 33 boulevard Malesherbes,Paris.
AJ Hilbert & Co. of Milwaukee & De Pere, WI. In addition to perfumes, it seems this company also produced flavoring extracts, toiletries and cosmetics. Their perfumes were often combined with the words Essence De Luxe or Ultra Ess (Ultra Essence). The company seems to have had it start in the 1890s and continued up until the late 1920s. Their products were offered in the Sears & Roebuck mail order catalogs in the early 1900s.The perfumes of AJ Hilbert & Co:
Godet Perfumery was established at 37 rue saint-Lazare, Paris in 1901 by Julien-Joseph Godet. The company sold perfumes and cosmetics, such as the popular Ma Poudre (My Powder) in 1911, which proved to be an avant garde presentation for its time. Godet succeeded in becoming a major international company by 1913, sadly the same year in which Godet died. The company was then taken control by his widow Losuie and the director, Abel Ravaud. the company won a gold medal at the 1925 Exposition in Paris. The company's perfume bottles displayed some of the finest labels of the era.
Lournay of 4 rue de la Paix, Paris.Lournay was a Franco-American company established in 1900 They produced low-priced to luxury perfume presentations until 1945, when they were acquired by Colgate.One of the finest and most rare of presentations introduced by Lournay would have to be the luxury Julien Viard edition for the perfume Vivante (alive) in 1923. This clear and frosted bottle had three identical Grecian figures on the bottle in brown patina.
Guimet of Paris,France and New York City.Be on the lookout for the satin glass powder box created for Guimet in the early 1930s, I have seen this jar in pink glass.
Moehr perfumery of Monte Carlo. It was established by Nestor Moehr and Georges Moehr.
Mouilleron of 2 quai Billancourt, Billancourt (Seine) France, was established in 1819 and has a successful perfumery company until it was acquired by Cottan in 1935.Diamant Bleu of 156 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore,Paris was established in 1907 by F. Bagot & Cie. They made perfumes and dental products. In 1912, they were bought out by Groupement International des Grands Coiffeurs. Later purchased by Maurice Chalom & Elie Devaux du Gourd de Bruniere in 1926. Their most famous perfume was for Etoilee de Bagdad of 1927. In 1937 they were acquired by Cottan.Groupement International des Grandes Coiffeurs of 16 rue Saulnier, Paris was established around 1900 to provide luxury perfumes, beauty products and toiletries for sale at hairdressing salons.Cottan (Cottan-Porte) of 40 rue de Chateaudun, Paris was established in 1832 by Docteur Cottan and named La Parfumerie de la Societe Hygenique du Docteur Cottan 1840.The company manufactured perfumes, costmetics and toiletries, they produced unusual luxury presentations in the 1920s.
The perfumes of Mouilleron:
The perfumes of Diamant Bleu:
The perfumes of Cottan,also known as Societe Hygienique:
Callot Soeurs of 9-10 avenue Matignon,Paris, was established in 1895 by three sisters,Marie Callot Gerber (a designer), Marthe Callot Bertrand and Regine Callot Chantrelle. Under the creative designs of Marie, and designer friend Madame Madeliene Vionnet, Callot Soeurs became a leading fashion house, producing day time clothes, Oriental and period at-home and evening gowns. All creations featured the use of luxurious fabrics, sumptuous embroideries and fine fashion details. In 1923, perfumes, mostly inspired by China were introduced and were available up until the 1950s. The boxes for perfume were in the same shape as the boxes for the fashion house's clothes. The design house of Madame Vionnet of 50 avenue Montaigne,Paris, was established in 1912 by Madeleine Vionnet, who had previously worked for Kate Reilly of London, Callot Soeurs of Paris and Doucet of Paris. She was among the first to introduce collections without corsets,said to be inspired by actress Isadora Duncan, who refused to wear corsets. Her couture house closed during World War I and reopened in 1919. She catered to the most prestigious of clientele. She introduced perfumes in 1924 and initially offered them only to her clients, there are only two commercial presentations known. Some of her early perfumes had simple letter names. Her salons closed in 1939. You can find more fashion info about Vionnet online.The design house of Louiseboulanger was also affiliated with Callot Soeurs. Louiseboulanger of 3 rue de Berri,Paris was established in 1923 by Louise Boulanger who catered to small elite group. The fabulous Marlene dietrich was a client. Louiseboulanger only launched one perfume commercially. Her house closed in 1939.The design house of Cheriut of 21 place Vendome,Paris, was affiliated with Louiseboulanger and was established by Madame Cheriut. She introduced perfumes around 1925 with the debut o fher signature fragrance.
The perfumes of Callot Soeurs:
The perfumes of Louiseboulanger:
The perfumes Madame Madeleine Vionnet:
A. Gravier of Paris, and 6 rue Casimir-Pinel,Neuilly (Seine) France.Established around 1880 by Alphonse Gravier at 83 rue du Temple in Paris. His company became very important after the introduction of Dr. Peterson and Salutine health products: toothpaste,soaps and perfumes. A. Gravier launched several luxury presentations during the 1920s and own a Silver medal at the Paris Exhibition in 1925. Gravier's perfume bottle for the 1926 scent, La Cascade was made by Baccarat.A. Gravier's labels were supplied by G. Millot starting around 1890. Millot's other clients included: J. Giraud et Fils, Godet, & Lorenzy-Palanca.
Véritable Essence de Lavande de l'Orisans
Joubert of New York City & Jersey City,NJ. Was also affiliated with the Jolind and Blue Waltz companies. I am sure there are more perfumes to be found, if I left one out, let me know.
Henri Bendel Inc. of New York City. Henri Bendel opened his first store in 1912 in New York City. Like other fine department stores of the era, he introduced house perfumes starting in 1915. Born in Louisiana in 1858, he opened a luxury fashion house at 10 West 57th Street, New York, USA in 1896. He was the first American House to launch fragrances; also sold cosmetics and toiletries .
United Drug Co. of New York City and Boston, Massachusetts. They also operated under the name Langlois. You can also find compacts from Langlois, usually marked Cara Nome, Shari or Jonteel.
The Bichara perfume company was established in 1896 by Bichara Malhame (from Beirut), who styled himself as "The Syrian Perfumer". The company was first located in Rouen and Dieppe. His perfumes were advertised as "parfums enivrants" (intoxicating perfumes).
The hair dye "Extrait de Henne Bichara" of 1899 was so successful that it financed the introduction of luxury perfumes. Bichara maintained that luxury image through it's shop and constant exposure in the French press. It was advertised as "Allah est grand et Bichara est son parfumeur" (Allah is good and Bichara is his perfumer"). Bichara also produced fine hennas for the hair, Le Henne Bichara, and kohl eye makeup called Mokoheul, this eye cosmetic was probably introduced in 1913 and stayed very popular into the 1920s. Another eye cosmetic was Cillana which I found reference in a 1913 ad. These two eye cosmetics were advertised as for "charme, beaute, sante des yeux", (charm , beauty and eye health). Eau des Roses Syrie was a skin brightener which also freshened the skin.
Around the turn of the century, the company became immensely successful with Sarah Bernhardt as his muse, who publicly endorsed perfumes. Bichara perfumes were her favorites.Bichara's client included the playwright Edmond Rostand who called Bichara " the poet of perfume". Other notable clients were: Gabriel Faure, Gabriele d'Annunzio, and Edouard de Max.Bichara supplied the Royal Egyptian court. In the 1920s, he opened a luxury fashion shop in London, introducing "couture made perfumes". The company exported worldwide.
One of his finest perfume presentations was for the 1928 perfume Ramses II, in a tall, obelisk shaped bottle decorated with Egyptian hieroglyphs. The bottle was manufactured by the Cristalleries de Saint-Louis. This bottle is rarely found today and when it does surface, it commands high prices fit for a pharaoh himself.
Another fine perfume presentation was for the perfume Myrbaha, launched in 1913, Baccarat bottle, frosted stopper in shape of pharaoh's head with grey patina. I have seen this bottle also used for Nirvana, Ambre, Yahvahna and Chypre perfumes. 5 7/8" tall. I have also had this stopper on a very rare pyramid shaped bottle before.
Early labels on cosmetics and perfumes, portrayed Bichara seizing the mythological Fortune by the hair with the inscription "Comment Bichara saisit la fortune" ( How Bichara grabs good fortune). An appropriate image since Bichara's original fortune was made on the hair product "Le Henne Bichara". The labels were redesigned in the 1920s by FL Schied in Art Deco style. Bichara also appeared on a Baccarat stopper portraying himself as an Egyptian pharaoh. Bichara Malhame died in 1930 and was succeeded by his daughter, Rose but the quality of perfume presentations declined and character of company changed, exemplified by Handle with Care in 1945. Bichara continued production into the 1950s.
Coryse was established in 1919 by Maurice Blanchetat 64 rue de la Chaussee-d'Antin, Paris and sold perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics. He purchased the perfumery Salome in 1929 and the two companies merged into Coryse-Salome. Salome was established in 1909 by Marius Cartier and sold perfumes,cosmetics and toiletries at his shop at 8 place de l'Opera, Paris. Salome was affiliated with Cartier. Cartier was established as "Parfums d'Art,Grand Luxe" by Marius Cartier around 1900 at 9 rue Garnier, Neuilly (Seine) France. Cartier sold perfumes of the highest luxury and Baccarat was a supplier o ftheir perfume bottles.
The perfumes of Coryse:
The perfumes of Coryse-Salome:
Legrain was established in 1921 at 9 rue Richepanse, Paris by Simon Moscovitz with associate Alzic Manole. Moscovitz was later known as Simon Legrain or isidore Legrain. They produced hluxurious and humorous presentations.
D’Ormo Company of New York and New Haven, Connecticut.
Aristide Boucicaut for his Paris department store, Le Bon Marche. I know there are more perfumes that may be found, but here are all the ones I was able to locate. Soap names will be preceded with Savon. In 1924, Baccarat produced a crystal bottle for Boucicaut Maison. All dates are circa. Perfumes and soaps can be found with either the Au Bon Marche or A. Boucicaut name on the labels.
The perfumes of Au Bon Marche:
J. Chamberry of France. The dates listed are circa dates as information is extremely scant on this short lived perfumer.
Jean Giraud Fils of Grasse and Paris France. The company produced perfumes and soaps and was established in 1853 as Giraud Freres. Later on it was simply named Jean Giraud Fils and was acquired by various essential oil producers in Grasse, such as Honore-Joseph Sozio around 1900. The company was successful and had large exports to South America. Other information is scant and I have provided all I can find. Some of the perfumes below are circa dated and may be older than the dates in which I have provided..
Bacorn Company of Elmira, NY. The company opened business around 1909 and closed due to a fire in 1927. The company sold their products thru mail order and also, like the California Perfume Co, through door to door sales ladies. In addition to perfumes, the company also produced fruit extracts and various toiletries. You can find numerous new old stock Bacorn perfume bottles on eBay as well as dug fruit extract bottles.
Sauze Freres of 25 rue d'Hauteville, Paris. Produced perfumes, cosmetics and toiletries. Company had obscure beginnings in Marseilles around 1822, later in Lyons,Paris.Family business included members: Etienne, Leopold,and Maurice Sauze.
Saravel of New York City:
The following perfumes/colognes have been found, they most likely date to the 1940s but I was unable to find their exact launch dates:
Parfums Raffy was established in 1918 by Marcel J. Raffy. Interesting note: Raffy was an American company for which Marcel sought to suggest French origins, even so much as to using a false Paris address for export to the USA. He was subsequently sued by French perfumers association for having used a fictious Paris address.
Ramses of Paris France & Cairo Egypt. Established in 1916 by M. de Bertalot with Orosdi-Back. Ramses became a major exporter to Africa and the Far East, with offices in Paris and Istanbul. Opened a sumptuous shop that had five monumental marble figures of pharaohs on the exterior. This elegant facade was destroyed in 1929 after the company had failed. Products of lower quality bearing the Ramses named had existed until the 1940s. Ramses was best known for having created luxurious perfume presentations with ancient Egyptian themes. The Orosdi Company was a successful perfume exporter managed by Leon Orosdi, the heir of founder Emile Orosdi who had made a fortune exporting Bourjois products to the Orient.
Evyan of New York City. I am sure there might be more perfumes to be found, if I left one out, let me know.
Volnay of Paris France & Suresnes France. Established in 1919 by Rene Duval, who had previously worked for perfumer Coty and established Brahma perfumery in 1912, producing Oriental style presentations. Volnay soon became very successful and had opened branches in London, Milan, Brussels, New York, South America and Australia. Volnay also produced perfumes for other companies such as Fontanis. Volnay created some of the finest presentations utilizing unusual names and eclectic styles inspired by exotic and romantic themes. Best known for the use of a pearlized finish on their perfume bottles, such as the one for Perlinette in 1925. Lalique manufactured some bottles for Volnay, including the ones for Gri-Gri, Chypre Ambre, Ambre de Siam, Violette, Mimeomai, Jardinee and Mousse Ambre.
Tuvache of New York City. Some interesting notes:Jungle Gardenia was given away by Bob Barker as a consolation prize to the losers on the daytime quiz show Truth Or Consequences from 1950-1958.One unopened one-dram bottle of Lilac perfume given away during the 1960 Presidential Campaign, made by Tuvache and in original red plastic folder imprinted: Saks Fifth Avenue Palm Beach, Fla., together with a one-page mimeographed biography of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy from the White House Office. The other perfume given out was Algiers.Jungle Gardenia was a favorite perfume of Liz Taylor.
De Raymond of Paris France & New York City. Also affiliated with De Seghers,also of Paris France & New York City, established in 1926 by Raymond Legrand. De Raymond was established in 1925 by Raymond Legrand and produced cosmetics, perfumes and toiletries, but went bankrupt by 1932, where the name de Raymond was still used after new US management, with low quality perfume presentations.The best selling perfume by De Raymond was his first, Mimzy
Tokalon of New York City & Paris France. Originally a British company To-Kalon, ossibly established before 1900 as a chemical-pharmaceutical company. They also produced laundry soaps in addition to cosmetics, toiletries and beautiful , luxurious perfume presentations. They opened an important branch in Syracuse,NY and Francis B. Mastin became proprietor in 1910. The Company later diversified into property as Societe Immobiliere, Franco-Anglo-Americaine.
Arys of Paris France,established in 1916 at 3 rue de la Paix Paris, by Dr. Lucien Graux, who had already produced perfumes with the Arys name. He was the perfumer to the Royal House of Spain. Graux played a major role in the 1925 Paris exhibition.
Charbert of New York City:
Gueldy was established in 1905 by Lelaurin and A. Sergent at 370 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore in Paris. The company was later acquired by P. Thibaud et Cie, a major toilet articles company affiliated with Gibbs, an English toiletries and toothpaste company, established in 1712. A. Sergent also established Sergy, which produced lower priced perfumes and cosmetics. Gueldy became a major company with large exports. It won a gold medal at the 1925 Paris Exhibition. The company was later acquired by the Lever Brothers.
Delettrez of 15 rue Royale of Paris France and Long Island City,NY. Established in 1835. From 1853, the company was subtitled Parfumerie du Monde Elegant (Perfumers of the High Society). They created early luxury presentations and were awarded two gold medals in 1900. They were a major exporter and opened a branch in New York City.
The following perfumes have been found, I do not know their launch dates:
These perfumes were found, but I dont know their launch dates:
It is possibly to find a frosted glass perfume bottle for the fragrance Lov'Me, it features a nude and her lover on the side. Many people mistake it for a Lalique bottle, but it was not made by Lalique.
A very rare bottle was produced by Quezal for the Melba Manufacturing Company in 1922 for the perfume Jolly Good (and possibly others). It was a golden iridescent art glass with a tapering body and hexagonal amber stopper. Base will be signed Quezal and Melba.

Lionceau was established in 1920 at 110 Demours, Paris France, by Michel Schasseur. The company generally produced luxury presentations and had large exports to the United States. In 1922, the company was acquired by the Boston-based food chain, SS Pierce. Lionceau was also affiliated with two other perfume companies: Elesbe and Demours.
Demours was established in 1927 at 110 rue Demours,Paris by Michel Schasseur and sold perfumes and cosmetics.
Elesbe was established in 1922 at 20 rue Dagobert, Clichy (Seine) by Robert-Laurent Levy, Roger de Soria and Pierre Bord with the company's name based on their initials (LSB).
Lionceau applied for the patent for these bottles in 1927,the bottles can be found in different opaque colors for different scents. An advertisement of the era states that this bottle was designed by Lalique. Bottles are marked made in France on base. The bottles were made in several sizes from 5 7/8" tall, 4" tall , 3 1/8" tall and 2 1/2" tall. The bottles were by H. Saumont.



Babani's shop was located at 93, 98, and 98bis, boulevard Haussmann, Paris France and were importers of Oriental wares, as well as a couture house, and also offered exquisite perfumes.
The Babani company has very obscure beginnings but is believed to have been established around 1895 when Vitaldi Babani acquired an existing shop that specialized in goods imported from China and Japan. He then opened other shops and around 1900, V. Babani diversified with daring fashions and sumptuous Liberty of London fabrics. Then in 1906, he created a style inspired by the Far East, called "Le Niu-Tse".
Babani was also influenced by the Ballets Russes and introduced oriental and Arabian fashions, made exquisite by the usage of gold embroidery and ornate patterning. He also introduced the "Sphinxia", a special sewing machine manufactured expressly for gold chain stitch embroidery.
In 1919, his son, Maurice Babani became the second Paris couturier to introduce perfumes. These perfumes featured luxurious presentations of the highest calibre. In 1920, S. Babani was also a prestigious importer of Oriental wares.
The exquisite perfume bottles were sold in the Elizabeth Arden salons on behalf of Babani Paris. The clear glass bottles had rich gold and black finishes and generally had Oriental themes. The bottles were produced by Maurice Depinoix. Babani expressed his gratitude in creating a fragrance called Mon Amie Elizabeth.
An original 1925 advertisement for Elizabeth Arden states :
"Elizabeth Arden has introduced to America the fashion for combining two or three Babani perfumes to accent your varying charms. Blend two or more Babani perfumes to create a personal perfume formula, a new fragrance which no one can identify or imitate, that will emphasize your interesting complexity, will seem to vary as your charming moods, and yet be essentially you. All Babani perfumes will combine in fragrant harmonies. Elizabeth Arden suggests that you blend Babani's Ambre de Delhi with Ligeia. Or Babani's Chypre with Sousouki. Or create a blended perfume quite your own.The perfumes of Babani are imported by Elizabeth Arden in just the lovely bottles and boxes in which they are sealed in Paris."
The perfumes of Babani:
Established in 1915 by Victor Vivaudou, a French-American. Affiliated with Delettrez, the initial creator of the Vivaudou products. Vivaudou produced low to medium priced range presentations, while Delettrez produced luxury presentations.
In addition to Delettrez, Vivaudou was also affiliated with the following companies:
The perfumes of Gabilla :
Established in 1811 by L. Legrand after purchasing formulas from descendants of Fargeon, the perfumer to the then 10 year old Louis XV. The business was purchased in 1860 by Antonin Raynaud and subsequently succeeded by his widow. The business was later purchased by Armand Schul around 1910 and was later known as Zociete Centrale de la Parfumerie Francaise.In the 19th century, Legrand was the court perfumers to Napoleon III, and the British, Russian and Italian royalty.
The company had two major innovations during the 19th century, with the 1879 introduction Parfumerie Oriza and the patent in 1887 for solid perfumes. This first commercial solid perfume was named "Essence Oriza Solidifiee". The Parfumerie Oriza was Legrand's first perfume line and icluded related cosmetics and toiletries under one name with coordinated graphics. This line was so successful that the company became known as Oriza-Legrand.L. Legrand was a successful company and won the gold medal in the 1889 Exhibition and the Grand Prix in the 1900 Exhibition. The company produced luxury perfumes. Perhaps the most notable was for Fin Comme l'Ambre in 1913, with a Baccarat bottle made up of clear & frosted crystal with molded heads of lions.
The perfumes of Oriza L. Legrand:
Do not confuse perfumes of Oriza L. Legrand with those of Hector Legrand, these companies are not related in any way. This company was established in 1856 at 118 rue Henry-Litolff, Bois Colombes (Seine). The proprietor in the early 20th century was J. Caron and produced small luxury perfumes, cosmetics and toiletries. Best known for the 1920 presentation of Eglantine de la Reine with the tiara bottle manufactured by Lalique.
Rimmel was established in 1834 by two Frenchmen, Eugene Rimmel and his father, who was a Lubin trained perfumer. They opened splendid shops in London and Paris. their main shop was at 96 Strand, London. All perfumes were produced in Grasse by the Rimmel family.
Imaginative products included perfumed jewelry, gloves, fans, cards, calendars, etc. The company was very successful and in 1851 at the Great Exhibition , Rimmel's giant perfume fountain scented the entire hall.
Rimmel was appointed Royal Perfumer to the British, Spanish and French royal courts.
Eugene Rimmel published The Book of Perfumes in 1864 and it was a best seller for many years. You can sometimes find copies on ebay.
Eugene died in 1887 and was succeeded by two sons. Despite financial setbacks, the company maintained their luxury image, producing some extraordinary presentations such as Art Moderne in 1925.
I am sure there are more perfumes to be found, if I left one out, let me know.
The perfumes of Rimmel:
The following perfumes were found, but I was unable to locate launch dates:
Ambrimmel
The Zanol line gave women the opportunity to be door to door saleswomen for their products, much akin to Avon at the time.Women would knock on their neighbor's doors, get their orders then return home, order the products from the company, then wen the goods were delivered, she would go back and deliver the products to the customers. The Zanol Company offered perfumes, toiletries for the home, beauty preparations, home remedies, soaps,laundry essentials, Military Foot Powder, concentrated sodas, food, coffee, spices, cleansers, polishes and other household goods.
Occasionally a sales kit or catalog from Zanol may turn up at auction. Some of the contents might include: samples of products, Catalog, price list & index, Official Order Blank, Letter of Credit to be filled out by the dealer, Illustrated flyer with product check off sheet, and more.
Even though Zanol was a nation-wide business, their products seldom come up for sale.
There may be more, if I left one out, please let me know, thanks!
The perfumes of Zanol:
The most expensive Tre-Jur bottle is for Suivez-Moi,launched in 1925,this clear and frosted bottle is in the shape of an elegant with lady wearing large hat as stopper, her crinoline skirt is decorated with abstract symbols, she holds a posy of flowers in her hands.Base acid-etched "House of Tre-Jur". The perfume came in several sizes with the smallest bottle standing just 2 1/2" tall. The largest stands 3.2" tall. This bottle shows up occasionally on ebay and on passionforperfume.
Dimestore novelty mini perfume bottles of the 1930s often come in the shape of bells. Its possible to find rouge and powder compacts, bath powders, toilet waters and childrens novelties from Tre-Jur online. In 1958, Tre-Jur came out with a line of Little Lulu themed toiletries for children. Tre-Jur is spelled as the phonetic equivalent of "treasure".
Seely. A perfume & extract company was established in 1862 by James M. Seely in Detroit, Michigan.Some of Seely’s perfume bottles were meant for apothecaries and barber shops, these are clear glass and have the name of the perfume or cologne etched onto the front of the bottle. The bottles are easily identified as Seely’s as their name is always etched before the perfume name. Other bottles will have paper labels, some are very ornate with chromolithography, others are a little bit more simpler.
Perfumes were often called “Qualite Royal”. They also produced a hair oil called Seely's Opera Hair Oil. Seely perfumes are not easily found. I have listed all that I could find, if you know of another, please let me know.
The New York Times had printed an following article on March 7, 1902.
“The American Perfume Company with a capital of $5,000,000 is a combination which will be effected in a few days by about fifteen of the largest perfume manufacturers and handlers of the United States. Headquarters will be established in New York, whence the movement emanates, and there will be distributing centers in Detroit and Chicago. Detroit firms in the movement will probably be the Michigan Drug Company. F. Stearns & Co., and the Seely Manufacturing Company. - The following are some of the firms outside of Detroit which will join the combination:
Herman Tappan Perfume Company of New York.The Tappan Company was one of the major American perfume companies during the Victorian era. It seems to have been established around 1881 by Herman Tappan in New York City, who was the successor to Corning & Tappan.
Most of Tappan's perfumes & colognes were aimed at the middle class and their prices were affordable. Tappan was very fond of figural perfume bottles and many of the colognes of the era were packaged and sold in these little glass novelties. Some of the more notable figurals from Tappan are baseball bats, ladies boots, legs,hands and slippers, and street lamps. In the 1890s Tappan had two patents on figural perfume bottles.
Tappan perfumes are increasingly hard to find nowadays as original labels are sometimes lost and all we are left with is empty bottles. The early non-figural bottles are cylindrical in shape and sometimes have the Tappan name embossed along the sides, usually the molded glass stoppers are in the shape of a large letter T. The bottles are generally light aqua color, clear or have turned a sun purple color.
I have looked everywhere for perfumes and colognes by Tappan, I was only able to find a few, if you know of more, please let me know and I will update the guide. I have placed estimated guesses on some of the circa dates for some of the perfumes & colognes, the others I was able to pinpoint from references.
Theodore Ricksecker of New York City and Hoboken,NJ.The Ricksecker family established themselves in Dover, Ohio. Theodore Ricksecker eventually became a resident of Brooklyn, and a druggist in New York City in the mid-1800s. He is credited to have been the first American to establish a perfumery company, launching his first fragrance in 1868. Over the decades, he became renowned for his rich spice and floral fragrances in perfumes and colognes. His use of pottery and glass, in a variety of shapes, colors, techniques, and sizes were part of the appeal -- then, as is now for collectors. In 1889, as an exhibitor in the Universal Exposition in Paris, he won a silver medal for one of his exhibits.Some rare Ricksecker perfume bottles are made up of porcelain, many of these pieces have delicate handpainting and little corks or metal crown stoppers. Even rarer are the perfumes in colorful end of day glass bottles.
Lazell of New York City. Established around 1870, the company was later acquired by Max Factor. The As-The-Petals line was introduced around 1910, and featured a drawing of seductive Salome surrounded by luxurious veils. This is by far not the entire list of perfumes, but are merely the only perfumes I could find. If you have another to add, please let me know, thanks. The perfumes would appear for many years in different advertisements.
Colgate Company of Jersey City, NJ from 1879 to 1959.The Colgate's Soap and Perfumery Works, later Colgate-Palmolive, was founded in 1806 by William Colgate. Colgate, an English immigrant, set up a starch, soap and candle business on Dutch Street in New York City. Frances Smith was made a partner in the following year and the firm became Smith and Colgate. William Colgate bought out his partner in 1813, the name was then changed to William Colgate & Co.The company moved from New York to NJ and the factory was completed in 1847. The name Colgate & Company was first adopted in 1857, after the death of William Colgate. Colgate & Company began getting into perfume and calling themselves perfumers in 1866. In 1866, the company introduced perfumed soap and began the manufacture of perfumes and essences. Six years later Cashmere Bouquet, the first milled perfumed toilet soap, was registered as a trademark. Colgate & Company produced its first toothpaste, an aromatic dental cream sold in jars. Then, in 1896, the company made toothpaste much more convenient to use by introducing the first collapsible toothpaste tube, one similar to those in use today.Meanwhile in Milwaukee, the B.J Johnson Soap Company, founded in 1864, was about to change its destiny. In 1898 the company introduced Palmolive Soap, a product that was so successful it prompted B.L. Johnson to change its name to the Palmolive Company in 1916.By its 100th anniversary, Colgate & Company,was manufacturing dental care products, laundry soaps, 160 different kinds of toilet soap and 625 varieties of perfume. The US Palmolive Company was expanding too. In 1926 it merged with the soap manufacturers Peet Brothers in Kansas City to form Palmolive-Peet Company. Two years later, this company merged with Colgate & Company and the new entity was known as the Colgate-Palmolive-Peet Company.By 1972, Colgate was trademarking its fragrances and using bottles which bore a Colgate trademark symbol. This bottle lacks that symbol.I have listed all the perfumes I have been able to find,I do know that 625 perfumes were available by 1920, if there is one I missed, please let me know. Thanks
Andrew Jergens Company of Cincinnati,OH. I know there may be more, so if I missed one, please let me know.
These perfumes have been found, but I was unable to find out their launch dates:
Shulton of New York City. Shulton also operated under a name of another company called Leigh. I believe it was originally called Leigh, then was either bought out by Shulton or had a name change.
Solon Palmer of New York, NY from 1878 to 1947.Solon Palmer was established in 1847, as a Perfumer & Chemist. Early cologne bottles were made of a beautiful shade of deep emerald green or rich teal in color and were usually the laydown types. Later bottles are clear glass, or light aqua glass and are cylindrical or hourglass shaped.Solon Palmer produced over 100 perfumes from 1885-1920s, I listed all I could find, I know there are more to be found. If I missed one, please let me know.Some of the 1920s perfumes may have had earlier launch dates than shown. I listed the perfumes as found in advertisements of the era. I also added "circa dates" to some perfumes where I couldnt find an exact date. Sometimes you might find tax stamps on the bottles, generally these are good indicators of age.
Allen B. Wrisely of Chicago, Ill. Many Wrisley colognes were sold in Fenton opalescent hobnail bottles such as this one below:
Edouard Pinaud from 1877 to 1945.The late 1700s origins of the company are obscure, but in 1810, M. Besancon established as small shop that was later purchased by M. Legrand. The business was acquired by Edouard Pinaud, and shop was renamed A la Corbeille Fleurie. From 1840, all products were sold under the Ed. Pinaud name, even though there were many changes to the company name. In 1852, Emilie Meyer became a partner and the business was renamed Pinaud et Meyer, and a second shop, Parfumerie de la Noblesse opened. Business success led to appointment as perfumer to all European courts around 1860.In 1872, ,Meyer's son-in-law, Victor Klotz became partner. After participation in the 1873 Vienna Exhibition, Pinaud became a household name. The company participated in many exhibitions during the 19th century and was awarded many prizes. The company was a major exporter, especially to the United States, where many Pinaud bottles can be found.At the turn of the century, the Ed. Pinaud building was completed in New York. In 1905, the company was renamed Victor klotz et Cie, later H. et G. Klotz Family business until 1931.
1894 Aoudja
1895 Anemone De France
Eastman Perfume Company of Cinncinatti, OH. Eastmans was a subdivision of the Andrew Jergens Company.There are many more perfumes, if I left one out, let me know.
Hoyt of New York City. I know there are more perfumes, if I missed one, please let me know.
The perfumes of Babbitt of Philadelpia,Pa:
The perfumes of BD Baldwin Perfumery of Chicago,IL:
The perfumes of Bean perfumery of Philadelphia,Pa:
SMITH, KLINE & FRENCH CO. of PHILADELPHIA. In 1830, John K. Smith opened his first pharmacy in Philadelphia. Over the years the Smith, Kline and Company favorably amalgamated with the French, Richard and Company because of their successful management decisions. In 1891, Smith, Kline and Company acquires French, Richards and Company, which provides the company with a greater portfolio of consumer brands. It changed its name to Smith Kline & French Laboratories to focus more on research in 1929. Years later, Smith Kline & French Laboratories opened a new laboratory in Philadelphia; furthermore, it bought a laboratory called Norden Laboratories which was doing research into animal health to benefit their research in various other areas.
The perfumes of Armand Co of Des Moines,IA:
The perfumes of Irma Armanet of San Francisco, CA:
The perfumes of FR Arnold of New York City:
The perfumes of the Ayer Company of Lowell,MA:
The perfumes of Anna Ayers of Chicago,IL:
The perfumes of Beecham's Laboratory of Oscawana,NY:
George W. Button Company of New York City. He also created the Bouton company.The perfumes of George C. Button:
The perfumes of Bouton:
AP Babcock of New York City. I probably don't have every single fragrance listed, so if I missed one, please let me know.
Frederick Stearn & Co of Detroit,Michigan, also known as Stearns. The early 1900s Stearns perfume labels seem to have been prefixed by the folowing words "American Girl Perfumes". I have listed the perfume names I could find, but there may be more out there.Most of the Day Dreams perfume and related toiletries you can find on ebay look to date to the 1930s-1940s. It was a very popular line, probably the most popular lines were Sadira & Day Dreams.
Henry Tetlow Co. of Philadelphia,PA.
Amzell was a New York perfumer.
Arlt was a New York perfumery company based in Brooklyn.
Agra was a perfume company out of Detroit.
Are-Jay was a perfumery from New York City. The perfumes of Are-Jay:
Armour was a perfumery of Chicago Illinois, they operated under another name Armour & Co. The perfumes of Armour & Co:
Robaire Alain of Los Angeles,CA:
The perfumes of Arthur O. Anderson of Cedar Rapids,IA:
The perfumes of Ethel G. Anderson of Chicago, IL:
The perfumes of Karl O. Anderson of Omaha,NE:
The perfumes of MV Anderson & Co of Lewiston,ME:
The perfumes of Andre-Lee of New York City:
The perfumes of Anre ( Harry D. Koenig) of New York City:
The perfumes of Benjamin Ansehl of St Louis, MO:
Ann Haviland of Haviland Laboratories,NY.The perfumes of Ann Haviland:
Harriet Hubbard Ayer from 1922 to 1951 .
Orloff ( Jean Vivaudou Co.) of New York City.
Park & Tilford of New York City.
The following perfumes have been found, I think they date to the 1930s-1940s but I was unable to locate the exact launch dates:
The perfumes of Brown & Brothers:
I saw an advertisement for 1882 that listed them as soapmakers & perfumers.Their bottles are also very hard to find and I have listed all the perfume names I could find. David S. Brown & Co. produced The Yellow Kid soap around 1902.
The perfumes of David S. Brown:
CB Woodworth & Sons of Rochester, New York. Established in 1854 as Woodworth & Bunnel as a company that sold perfumes, cosmetics and toiletries. The company proved to be very successful even without the usage of extensive advertising until 1928. Some of their French luxury presentations featured bottles by Julien Viard and Maurice Depinoix.Starting in 1930, Woodworth became a subsidary company of Internation Perfume Inc of New York and was marketed under its Bourjois Paris label.The two most popular scents were Fiancee and Karess. You might find the compacts online for Karess or the pretty frosted perfume bottles for Fiancee.
The perfumes of Adrian:
The perfumes of Anjou:
The perfumes of Angelique of Wilton,CT, established 1946:
The perfumes of Alexa Inc:
The perfumes of Aubry Sisters of New York City:
The perfumes of Aucoin of New Orleans,LA:
The perfumes of Auvergne of Springfield,MA:
The perfumes of Auziere of Nashville,TN:
The perfumes of Allen Cosmetic Co (Kathryn A. Allan) of New York City:
The perfumes of Roger S. Allan of New York City:
The perfumes of Allen Perfumer of Detroit,MA:
The perfumes of Lucretia Allen of New York City:
The perfumes of American Beauty Perfumers of New York City:
The perfumes of American Druggists Syndicate of Long Island,NY:
The perfumes of American Products Co of Cincinnati,OH:
The perfumes of American Toilet Goods of Boston,MA:
The perfumes of Bonne Bell of Cleveland, Ohio:
The perfumes of Bell Perfume Co (Samuel M. Fried) of Chicago,IL:
The perfumes of Muriel Bell of New York City:
The perfumes of Bergdorf Goodman of New York City:
The perfumes of Bergel of Hollywood,CA:
The perfumes of Polly Bergen:
The perfumes of Bergere of New York City:
The perfumes of Marian Bialac:
The perfumes of George H. Betts of New York City:
The perfumes Best & Co of New York City:
The perfumes of The Bertle Co of New York City:
The perfumes of Alfred Berti of New York City:
The perfumes of Betts & Mumpeton of New York City:
The perfumes of Thomas Biddle of Fort Wayne,IN:
The Perfumes of Bija, a USA company:
The perfumes of Bijan of Beverly Hills,CA:
The perfumes of Bippus & Breidenbach of Dayton,OH:
The perfumes of the Biroto Inc of New York City:
The perfumes of Gaston J. Block of New York City:
The perfumes of John Blocki & Son of Chicago,IL:
The perfumes of Bo-Kay of New York City & Jacksonville,FL:
The perfumes of Harry Bliss of New York City:
The perfumes of Bliss Laboratories of New York City:
The perfumes of William Bloom & Co of New York City:
The perfumes of Blossom of Brooklyn,NY:
The perfumes of Bluekamel of Detroit,MI:
The perfumes of Edouardo Inc of New York City:
The perfumes of Edouard of Cleveland,OH:
The perfumes of Duvinne of New York City:
The perfumes of Eisenberg of Chicago,IL:
The perfumes of Elmo of Philadelphia,PA:
The perfumes of Mary Dunhill of New York City:
John Wanamaker of Philadelphia, PA. In addition to selling the world's most famous commercial perfumes, the department store giant had perfumes sold under his own name as well. These perfumes are very hard to find nowadays and command a small premium due to their scarcity. The Wilmington store even had a perfume filled "dancing water fountain".
John Wanamaker also had a secondary perfume company called Wahna, here are the two perfumes from that company:
Hattie Carnegie of New York City.:
Lander of New York City.
Nettie Rosenstein of New York City.
Charles of the Ritz of New York City. In 1916, Charles Jundt, a coiffeur took over the beauty salon at the Ritz Carlton in New York City. He founded his own cosmetics company in 1919, and in 1926 began marketing his products with the name Charles of the Ritz. In 1927, he introduced perfumes. The first perfumes were named with simple letters of the alphabet. I am sure there are more perfumes to be found, if I left one out, let me know. In 1987, Charles of the Ritz perfume company was sold to Revlon, in 2002, Revlon discontinued the Charles of the Ritz name, and you will find Charles of the Ritz perfumes under the Revlon name.
The perfumes of Deltah:
The perfumes of De Heriot of Los Angeles, CA:
The perfumes of Dermay Perfumers of New York City:
The perfumes of Lilly Dache of New York City:
The perfumes of Daggett & Ramsdell of Newark,NJ & New York City:
The perfumes of Dermeties of New York City:
The perfumes of D'Artimon of New York City:
The perfumes of Jean Ravaud of New York City:
The perfumes of Richelieu:
The perfumes of Marie Richelieu Parfum Odesant of New York City:
The perfumes of Remiller of New York City:
The perfumes of Ravel of New York City:
The perfumes of Raquel Inc of New York City:
Dorothy Gray of Bloomfield, NJ from 1922-1971.
Revlon of New York City.
Bab's Creations from 1939 to 1943.
Mary Chess of New York City. Established in 1932 by Grace Mary Chess Robinson on Park Avenue, small shop opened in 1933. Became a very important perfumer after she introduced "Chess Pieces" in 1938. These figural perfume bottles were in the shape of chess pieces, an artful play on her name. Mary Chess used only natural ingredients in her perfumes, and her first perfume was White Lilac. I am sure there might be more perfumes to be found, if I left one out, let me know.
Yardley from 1914 to 1968.
Frances Denney/Denny of Philadelphia, Pa.
Faberge from 1937 to 1994.
Helena Rubinstein perfumes from 1928 to 1985.
In 1849, a chemist named Molinard Jeune concocted excellent perfumed waters in the secrecy of his laboratory which he then sold from a small boutique in the center of town. The reputation of Molinard's perfumes grew and became established with the creation in 1921 of Habanita, a perfume that to the day remains a great classic.
"The genuine wax of the flowers, used directly as a perfume, Just a touch behind the ear, in the hair, on the eyebrows, on the linings of your coat, quite enough to be perfumed.", states a vintage Concreta advertisement. In 1925, Molinard created the first solid perfumes, called concreta. These solids were the genuine wax from the flowers. This alcohol free formula, is a very guarded secret and has even been patented by Molinard. It is more concentrated than any other perfume, and will last a lot longer as well. Even vintage concreta still retains a strong scent.

These vintage pieces are presented in little bakelite balls, berets, dice and in flowerpot shaped containers. A very rare set of concreta is the "Les Diamants de la Couronne", this set had five cubes of white bakelite which was swirled with red, green, orange, blue or black, they were housed in an oval box.


The tops of concreta pots are handpainted, usually with flowers or figures. The labels on the base tell you which perfume is inside. The oldest concreta are the ones that have the ball shaped lids, the later ones are flowerpot or dice shaped. In the 1940s, all three shapes were offered in an advertisement. Concreta was also available in wooden dice containers, called Le Poker, probably around the 1940s onward.
Concreta make awesome little collectibles as each one is one of a kind, you might find a tropical scene,Spanish ladies, castle, Flapper girl smoking, flowers,butterflies, or any other motifs on the little pots. Some sellers on ebay even sell little display stands for solid perfumes.In addition to the concreta pots, there are plenty of Molinard Concreta advertisements out there to add to your collection too!
Molinard's Concreta is still being produced today and sells for $65 retail, comes housed in a beautiful goldtone compact and beautifully packaged, they come in some old favorites as well as newer scents:
The vintage Concreta that you will come across came in many scents including:
In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by Coty from 1905-2000. Coty was established in 1904 by Francois Spoturno. Coty became Coty, Inc in 1922 in New York City. In 1939, five foreign Coty companies reorganized in Coty .In 1963, Coty was acquired by Pfizer, and is now called Coty Division Pfizer on perfume labels.
In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by Lancome from 1935-2003.
Lancome was established in 1935 at 29 Faubourg-Saint-Honore in Paris, by Armand Petitjean, the previous managing director of Coty. The first five perfumes were introduced at the 1935 Brussels exhibition. The perfume firm was awarded a prize and became a major company. Georges Delhomme, who worked for Coty from 1931-1935, became the artistic director for Lancome from 1935-1965 and was the creator for almost all of Lancome's presentations during the 1950s.
In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by Roger et Gallet from 1806 to 1991.
In this guide I have listed the various perfumes by Robert Piguet that were presented from 1944-1974. The perfumes of Robert Piguet, starting with the most recent:
In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by the House of Lanvin from 1924-1987.
The perfumes of Lanvin:
In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by D'Orsay from 1902 to 1955.
Established in 1908 by a well organized investor group made up of Siegfried and Sally Berg, Leo Fink, and M. Van Dyck. They selected the D'Orsay name and coat of arms to create the aristocratic and luxurious image of a long-established French company. The investors even went so far as to purchase a castle as their headquarters.
D'Orsay produced all their packaging and perfumes. In 1925, D'Orsay was awarded the Grand Prix at the exhibition in Paris. Several bottles were manufactured by Baccarat and Daum Nancy
The following perfumes have been located, but I am unsure of their launch dates:
In this guide, I have listed the various perfumes presented by Elizabeth Arden from 1922 to 2006.
In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by de Vigny from 1921 to 1952.
de Vigny was established in 1919 by Lucien Vogel with help of his brother Jacques, a perfumer who was later associated with the companies Dana & Molyneux. The company was located at 416 rue Saint-Honore,Paris.
The company and products were named de Vigny after the poet Alfred de Vigny. From the beginning, de Vigny introduced perfumes with two distinct personalities- the humorous and the ethereal.
Michel de Brunhoff designed such notable comical perfumes as Le Golliwogg, Le Chick-Chick, Guili-Guili and Be Lucky.
Charles Martin created fabulous advertisements and for the ethereal luxury presentations with bottles designed by Lalique, primarily seen in the La Gazette du Bon Ton. Vogel founded Le Gazette du Bon Ton , Jardin des Modes and French Vogue in collaboration with his wife Cosette and her brother, Michel de Brunhoff. The three Lalique bottles used for the early advertisements were Musky, Ambre and Jamerose.
The company changed their name to Les Parfums de Luxe SA 1921. de Vigny was awarded a gold medal in 1925 at the Paris Exhibition.
After 1929, without the artistic and creative involvements of Vogel, Martin, Lalique, and de Brunhoff, the luxurious quality of designs for new presentations declined considerably. From 1933, the de Vigny name was gradually simplified to Vigny.
The most common of all Vigny perfumes to be found is the adorable Golliwogg. The stopper is made up of black glass and has real seal fur for hair. The earlier bottles of 1919 were frosted glass, and the later ones from the 1920s were in clear glass. Baccarat supplied many of the bottles. The bottles as well as the graphics were designed by Michel de Brunhoff. The rare original bottle has black glass stopper with molded face and hair. the figural bottles ranged in five sizes from the largest at 6 3/4" tall down to the smallest 2 3/4" tall. Don't forget to look for the fanciful powder boxes emblazoned with dear Golli's head and the lotion, tester and sample bottles and the rare bronze and enamel pins with a little grate to hold perfume soaked cotton balls.
One of the more whimsical perfume bottles was the one made for Le Chick-Chick, which was made for Easter. The crystal bottle had gilded wings which formed the body of the chick, and had an oversized gilded cap which formed the head. These bottles came in three different sizes from the largest at 5 3/8" tall, to a medium size 3 3/8" and the smallest at 2 7/8" tall. They came housed in floral papered boxes with a drop front
.A rare bottle to come across is for the scent Guili-Guili. This perfume was based on a real life magician and illusionist from Alexandria Egypt. The bottle had a head and foot of carved mahogany, the head resembled an African mask, covered the inner stopper, while the foot enabled the paneled crystal bottle to stand upright. This bottle stood at 6 1/4" tall.
The Perfumes of Vigny:
In this guide I will list the various perfumes presented by Corday from 1923 to 1959.
The perfume house of Corday was established in 1924 by Blanche Arvoy (nee Reneaux) at 15 rue de la Paix, Paris, one year after she opened the Jovoy perfumery which was located at 127 rue de Longchamp, Paris.
Corday was named after Marat's assassin, Charlotte Corday. Arvoy created early perfume concepts and high quality presentations and was awarded the silver medal in 1925 for Jovoy creations. Her Jovoy line was based on whimsical animal bottles, such as a dalmation (Allez Hop), parrot (Hallo Coco), cat (Gardez-Moi) and camel with rider (Severem).
After her involvement, Corday was also involved in the Franco-American Hygenic Company of Chicago,Il. Please scroll down to see the Jovoy line of perfumes and the Franco-American line.
The perfumes of Corday:
The perfumes of Jovoy:
The perfumes of the Franco-American Hygenic Co:
In this guide, I have listed the various perfumes presented by Estee Lauder from 1953 to 1998.
The perfumes of Estee Lauder:
In this guide I will list the various perfumes presented by Givenchy from 1957-1998.
The couture house of Givenchy was established in 1952 by Hubert de Givenchy at 3 avenue George V, Paris. Perfumes were introduced in 1958.
The perfumes of Givenchy:
In this guide I will list the various perfumes presented by Nina Ricci from 1946 to 1994.
The perfumes of Nina Ricci:
In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by Marcel Rochas from 1936-1998.
The perfumes of Rochas:
In this guide I will list the various perfumes presented by Lucien Lelong from 1927 to 1953.
Lucien Lelong was the son of a couturier who designed his first collection in 1914,then was called to duty in WWI, where he earned the Croix de Guerre. He returned in 1917, then he joined his father's dressmaking shop in 1918. The couture house of Lucien Lelong was established in 1919 at 16 avenue Matignon, Paris. Showed his first designs under his own name in 1923. Perfumes were introduced in 1924 in very modern, luxury presentations, under the name Parfums Lucien Lelong. Lelong retired in 1948 and the salon was closed, although it was closed, he still remained in the perfume business until the 1950s.
The perfumes were simply named after letters of the alphabet, A, B, C, later on came J & N or clever phrases like :Tout Lelong (All Lelong- tout le long means "all along").
In later years, Lelong introduced humorous presentations such as Ting-a-Ling (with real bells) and Gyroscope (working model).
The perfumes of Lucien Lelong:
In this guide, I have listed the various perfumes presented by Max Factor from 1925 to 1991.
The perfumes of Max Factor:
Does anyone know the exact launch dates of the following Max Factor perfumes?:
A friendly ebayer sent me some information about the Royal Regiment line:
"Here is some that I know. Max Factor released Royal Regiment Leather in 1965 and produced it until about 1975. They eventually produced five fragrances, Leather, Dry Lime, Sandalwood, Wild Briar, and Oakmoss. It was presented in an amazing assortment of packaging. I'm always surprised when I see a new (to me) one. There seem to be different packaging in Europe than we had here in the States. The basic theme in America was military. There were at least five statues of guardsmen, there were drums, and cannon. There was Talc and soap, including one on a rope, and one in the shape of a life sized cannon ball, sliced into eight pieces. I have photos of all that I have collected. I have missed some great pieces, and I have found some better ones on ebay. Some have never been opened. Surprising how many after this amount of time. I began using the stuff in 1967 when I was going through Marine Security Guard School in Washington D.C."
In the 1970s, Max Factor released their "Aromatic Body Potions" line which was comprised of several different perfumed body oils, which could be mixed to create personal scent blends. I have listed all of those that I could find, if I missed one, please let me know.
In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by Elsa Schiaparelli from 1934 to 1977.
The perfumes of Schiaparelli:
In this guide I have listed the various perfumes of Myrurgia of Barcelona,Spain from 1916 to 1979.
The perfumes of Myrurgia:
In this guide I will discuss the various perfumes presented by Ybry, Myon and Fioret.Don't forget to look for the vintage advertisements for these perfumes. They make excellent additions to your collection and can be found at reasonable prices on ebay.
YBRY
Ybry of Paris France, they also had an office in New York City. Ybry perfumes were advertised as being "the most expensive in the world". Ybry was a luxury perfume house founded in 1925 by a man named Simon Jaroslawski and went into liquidation in 1932. His other two perfumery companies are Fioret and Mÿon, whose perfumes I will also list below.
Jaroslawski collaborated with Baccarat for perfume bottles but also had commissioned Lalique to create some luxurious glass medallions for the perfume bottles for Ybry and Fioret (alternative name of Les Parfums des Jardins de Fioret). Lalique also produced bottles for the Fioret line.
Baccarat produced the classic Ybry perfume bottle, a flattened square in colored crystal. These beautiful bottles were made by overlaying colored crystal on white crystal to create an opaque and unique luminescent quality, this same glass was also used for the shortlived Myon perfume line.




Each different color, was related to a particular perfume, and to a different gem. The colors range from a red to a pink, slag green to a darker green, jet black, orange to butterscotch, deep purple to lavender. Most of the time, the bottles had matching enameled and gilded metal covers. These covers were placed over the inner stoppers at an angle on one corner of the bottle.

The atomizers came equipped with either chrome or gilt brass hardware. The colored bottles had round gold foil embossed labels, the black bottles had square, silver foil embossed labels. This bottle recieved a patent granted on 1925.
The bottles ranged in size from 7 7/8" tall down to diminutive sample sizes of just 1 3/8" tall. Check your bottles for the Baccarat acid stamp or paper label. The smallest bottles I have read, were not made by Baccarat.

The presentation boxes were covered with fine leather and often had color-coordinated small triangular segments and luxurious silk tassles. Other boxes looked like little suitcases and were covered in suede , and held multiple presentations, such as three bottles and two atomizers. Another rare example held two bottles, one atomizer and a Lalique medallion attached to the case with a silk tassel.

FIORET
The first perfume flacons for Fioret were produced in 1919 by Baccarat, and were made up of clear crystal rectangles with gilded brass caps over inner ground glass stoppers. Bottles were also made by Cristal Nancy. The bottles featured gilded labels with Art Nouveau lettering. The simple light grey boxes bore the Lalique medallions. The bottle for Chose Promise was produced by Lalique in 1924. Fioret perfumes were imported into the USA by F. Salathe & Co of New York starting in 1921.
MYON
The bottles for the Mÿon line were produced by Baccarat and were of the same opaque overlaid crystal technique as those classic flacons for Ybry. The perfumes often came in a stylized angular Chinese ginger jar type of flacons with an enameled brass cover and label. Original boxes are rare to find.

The Perfumes of Raphael:
German perfume company, E. Wolff & Sohn, later named Wolff Freres, Inc.Company was established in Karlsruhe Germany.
The perfumes of E. Wolff & Sohn:
The Perfumes of Wolff Freres, Inc:
Blanchard of New York City.The perfumes of Blanchard:
In this guide I have listed the various perfume produced by Rigaud of Paris France & New York City. Rigaud produced many luxury presentations. They are best known for their all time best selling perfume-Un Air Embaume.
Rigaud was established in 1854 by JBF Rigaud at 16 rue de la Paix in Paris. JBF Rigaud was succeeded by his son, Henri. The company was very successful with branches in London, Milan, Madrid and in both North and South America.
The company participated in several 19th century exhibitions and was awarded gold medals in 1878, 1889, and 1900.
Rigaud was the first perfumery to add Oriental names to their perfumes such as: Melati de Chine, Kanaga-Osaka and Pagoda Flowers.
Famous Parisian actresses were among Rigaud's best clients-theatre themed perfume names included: Actrices, Prince Igor, Mary Garden, Marthe Chenal and Geraldine Farrar.
The perfumes of Rigaud:
In 1860 M. Ponsin established a shop at 28 place Vendome, Paris, which sold perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics. In 1869, the shop was purchased by Alexandre Napoleon Bourjois and the company was renamed Bourjois. Around 1880, Emile Orosdi became a co-proprietor and in 1900, the business was acquired by Ernest Wertheimer. The most successful line was Soir de Paris or Evening In Paris which debuted in 1928. You might find a perfume bottle by Gilot, named Soir de Paris, this is not a typo, this perfume-cosmetics line was trademarked in 1925, prior to Bourjois.
Some of Bourjois' luxury boxes were manufactured by the company F Bouvet & F. Gaud as well as Jean Martin.
Jean Helleu, a French painter, also worked as a perfume and cosmetics advertising artist, and was the artistic designed for Bourjois and Coty.
The bottles for Talis were produced by Cristalleries de Saint-Louis. The bottles for Mon Parfum were made by Baccarat. The glass factory of Verreries Brosse supplied many bottles for Bourjois perfumes after WWI.
Perfumes that I cannot find their launch dates:
The perfumes of Hermes:
The perfumes & colognes of Guy Laroche:
Forvil of 1 rue de Castiglione,Paris France.The company was established in 1922 by Leo Fink as Forval, with La Perle Noire and Le Corail Rouge, both designed by Lalique.In 1923, the company was sold to La Societe Anonyme les Dentifrices du Docteur Pierre Mussot (dental hygiene company established in 1837 by Dr. Pierre Mussot) and renamed Forvil.Lalique created black glass bottles for only two companies: D'Orsay & Forvil, the two companies founded by Leo Fink.
The Perfumes of Forvil:
Le Galion of Neuilly France & Paris France. The existing company was established by Prince Murat and associates at 11 bis, rue Amelie in Paris. Later acquired by Paul Vacher in 1937.
The perfumes of Le Galion:
Renoir of Paris France & New York City. Established in 1939, also produced perfumes for other companies such as Robert Piguet.
The perfumes of Renoir:
Revillon of Paris France. Revillon was originally a furrier established in 1839 by Louis-Victor Revillon. Perfumes were first introduced in 1934.
The perfumes of Revillon:
Jacques Fath of Bois France & Paris France. The Jacques Fath couture house opened its doors in 1937 and introduced perfumes in 1945, it closed in 1957. I am sure there are more perfumes to be found, if I left one out, let me know.
The perfumes of Jacques Fath:
In this guide I have listed the various perfumes produced by Lubin of Paris France & New York City.
Lubin was established in 1798 by Pierre-Francois Lubin as Aux Armes de France. Lubin claimed ownership and use of all the secret beauty formulas of the French court. His success was so great that in the 1800s, Lubin became the favorite supplier of most European royal courts.The firm fortunately fell into the hands of Princess Borghese, who allowed her name to be linked with the Lubin creations. The house of Lubin was the first to solicit the North American market, aiming at the plantation culture of the South. Felix-Andre Prot successed Lubin in 1853 and the company passed onto his heirs in 1885 and became Paul Prot & Cie around 1900.
Some of the perfumes listed below in the the 1920s were probably launched a decade earlier.
The perfumes of Lubin :
Balenciaga perfumes:
Renaud of Paris & Montreuil France.
Renaud was established in 1817 and produced perfumes, cosmetics and toiletries of low to medium priced presentations.
Renaud's boxes for perfume were often emblazoned with the 1817 date, please note that this is not the date of the perfume's manufacture, its is the date the perfumery company was established!
The striped glass perfume vials were made in Germany for Renaud in the 1920s.
The opaque glass perfume bottles were manufactured by the Cristalleries de Nancy (Daum Nancy) in the 1924-1934 and came in various shapes, including a rectangular bottle with rounded corners and a cylindrical shaped bottle with a brass screw cap, this brass cap was patented in 1931. The bottles came in the following colors: red, green, gilded, black, with both yellow ochre, purple & turquoise being the rarest of colors.
The perfumes of Renaud:
Pierre Balmain from 1947-2002.
The couture house of Balmain was established in 1945 at 44 rue Francois I er in Paris. His own perfumes were introduced in 1947. His advertisements were illustrated by the artist, Rene Gruau.
The Perfumes of Balmain:
The Perfumes of the House of Worth:
The perfumes of Madame Gres:
The perfumes of Carven:
The perfumes of Cacharel:
The perfumes of Weil:
The Perfumes of Cheramy:
The company first became involved with the selling of perfumes when they sold perfumed gloves whey were awarded the title of "Parfumeur-Gantier" in 1769. Michel Adam established a small shop at 82 rue de Lombards, Paris between 1769 and 1774 and added A le Reine des Fleurs, to its name, which remained as it's subtitle.
Succeeded by family members, Paul Guillaume and Dissey and later in 1813 by Louis-Toussaint Piver, whose name was adopted as the new company name in 1823. Alphonse Piver succeeded LT Piver . The company participated in all of the major exhibitions in the 19th & 20th centuries. Louis Sue and Andre Mare redesigned the Piver shop in the 1920s and Louis Sue designed Reve D'Or presentation.
Piver was frequently a leader in new perfume designs and concepts. Some of his best known presentations included the most beautiful Alphonse Mucha inspired-Art Nouveau floral graphics for the Floramye, Azurea, and Safranor lines.
Many bottles were produced by Baccarat, namely the bottles for the following perfumes: Astris, Reve D'Or
Lalique produced the perfume bottle for Misti in 1912.
The perfumes of Marquay:
D'Heraud. Established in 1920, D'Heraud was founded by Delphin Heraud and produced perfumes, cosmetics and toiletries. Some of the finest luxury presentations were made by Lucien Gaillard and Lalique for D'Heraud. The perfumes of D'Heraud of Paris France:
The perfumes of Desti of Paris France:
The perfumes of Jean Despres (Jean Desprez):
The perfumes of Jean D'Hennery of Paris France:
Ludwig Scherk of New York City & Berlin Germany.The perfumes of Scherk:
There may be more, if I missed one, please let me know, thanks!
The perfumes of Lundborg:
The following perfumes have been loctaed, but I was unable to find their launch dates:
The perfumes of JE Atkinson: