Les Parfums de Rosine were established in 1911 by designer Paul Poiret with his wife Denise at 107 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore in Paris. Rosine sold perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics as fitting accessories for his avant garde fashions. The company was named after Poiret's eldest daughter. Many artists and illustrators worked for Rosine. Poiret lost financial control around 1925 and the business was later acquired by Societe Centrale de la Parfumerie Francais (L. Legrand) in 1930 and managed by Madame Nevarte Cordero. Most of the existing Rosine perfumes were produced until the 1950s in standard presentations.
Poiret's perfumes were created with the help of the perfumer-glassmaker Maurice Schaller, and later with the celebrated Almeras. The perfume names evoked the exotic with names such as Le Fruit Defendu, Borgia, Nuit de Chine, Le Balcon, and Shakhyamuni. Nuit de Chine was created by Maurice Schaller and was originally called Nuit d'Orient.
The perfume Coeur en Folie was introduced at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris.
The perfume bottles for Rosine were produced by Depinoix and Lefebure as well as Poiret's own companies Atelier Colin & Atelier Martine. Most of the bottles were hand painted at Atelier Martine. The packaging of his perfumes resembled the look and materials of his fashions, with great emphasis on vivid colors, opulent textures and harlequin and Oriental lampshade patterns. Arlequinade was directly inspired by harlequin and had gilded triangles on its bottle along with a Bakelite cap shaped like a tricorne hat.
The Perfumes of Rosine:
1922 Antinea Toute le Foret
1922 Antinea Ou Au Fond De La Mer
The company was created by Prince Georges V. Matchabelli who was not only a previous Georgian Prince of Georgian Prince and ambassador to Italy, but also was an amateur chemist who began creating perfumes for his friends and family as a hobby. George was a Russian exile who fled the Soviet Union and immigrated to the USA after the Russian Revolution. He and his wife, Princess Norina Matchabelli (an actress whose stage name was Maria Carmi), opened a small antiques shop Le Rouge et le Noir at 545 Madison Avenue. The name derived from Stendhal's novel, red for aristocracy (Matchabelli's origins) and black for clergy (The Miracle, a religious play). They later established the Prince Matchabelli Perfume Company in 1926.Perfumes were personally blended for clients. The first three perfumes were Princess Norina, Queen of Georgia and Ave Maria. The company became known for the many color-coded, crown-shaped bottles that housed such well-known perfume brands as The crown-shaped bottle was designed by Norina after the Matchabelli crown and was introduced in 1928 with labels on the underside. Matching cosmetic cases and sets with miniature crowns.
Dating your bottles: The older Matchabelli crown shaped bottles are all glass, including the cross shaped stopper. These bottles seem to command higher prices than the plastic versions. The older bottles have colored glass, the later bottles are colored enamel over glass. The tallest bottles stand 6 1/4" tall and the smallest measure just 1 5/6" tall. The 1950s mini versions omit the cross and have a simple brass or plastic screw cap, these bottles measure 1 5/8" tall and 1 1/4" tall.

Added attraction,Princess Norina & Queen of Georgia

Crown Jewel

Ave Maria

Beloved & Duchess of York

Katharine the Great

Wind Song
Around 1880, a small pharmacy was opened in New York city and sold perfumes, cosmetics and assorted toiletries. Richard Hudnut, the son of the proprietor of the shop, became the first American selling luxury perfume presentations, (though some of these were created in France) in an elegant shop which was directly influenced by the French and European perfumeries. In 1916, the company was sold to Henry & Gustavus Adolphus Pfeiffer and Richard Hudnut was no longer involved in the business. As a result of this, Gustavus Adolphus became the president of the Richard Hudnut Company. In the 1920s, the company had expanded into Europe, and acquired the French style. The company proudced several luxurious presentations during the 1920s but the quality of designs declined gradually starting in the 1930s and right on thru to the 1950s.When Richard Hudnut opened a new shopat 20 rue de la Paix, Paris in 1927, he introduced four new blends of perfumes called Le Debut. Each perfume was of the same Art Deco octagonal shape, but had it's own color to suggest four different moods. Original boxes are rare to find, but if you are lucky enough you might find that Le Debut Vert came in a green box, Le Debut Blanc came in a white box, Le Debute Noir came in a red box and Le Debut Bleu came in a blue box. The rarest bottle color is the white bottle. The perfume bottles came in five different sizes from 5 1/8" tall to diminutive 1 1/4" tall bottles. Matching compacts and vanity cases were also sold.




Please do not confuse this bottle with the blue 1987 bottle for LouLou by Cacharel, the stoppers are completely different.

In the early years of the turn of the century, Ernest Daltroff, was beginning to get fascinated by scent and fragrance creation. So in 1903, Daltroff purchased a perfumery in Asnieres called Parfumerie Emilia, a northwestern suburb of Paris, Daltroff's first perfume was named Royal Emilia, after the shop. His business was such a success that he purchased another small perfumery and haberdashery store from Anna-Marie Caron, called the Magasin Caron at 10 rue de la Paix, in the fashionable heart of Paris and renamed it Parfumerie Caron. He liked the name and decided it would be easy for his customers to pronounce in any language and remember as well as looking good on packaging. The perfume Royal Emilia was renamed Royal Caron in 1904..
As the clientele grew, he took on a partner, Felicie Vanpouille, a young dressmaker, and Daltroff's lover. She was made the artistic director of the company and was responsible for design and packaging. Many of the perfume flacons used by Caron were designed by Felicie, such as Chantecler, Royal Emilia, and others. But her best known design was for the bottle of Narcisse Noir. This bottle was so popular that it was being copied by other companies for their own versions of Narcisse perfumes.
The firm continued to prosper and exported perfumes to the United States, South America, England. They opened a branch in 1923 in New York to satisfy their American cliente. Subsequently the firm expanded in the years between the wars and was awarded the Legion d'Honneur by the French Government for its outstanding economic achievements.
Ernest fled to the United States two years before the start of World War II, he died in 1941. Felicie later remarried and her new name was Felicie Bergaud,and continued to run the firm until she sold it in 1962.
The three most sought after perfume bottle from Caron are Adastra, Alpona and Voeu de Noel. These three perfumes were presented at the Worlds Fair in 1939.
Several bottles were produced by Baccarat, so be sure to check the base of your perfume for any markings, the perfume bottles are for Narcisse Noir, Or et Noir, Fete de Roses, Lady Caron, Bellodgia, Tabac Blond, Fleur de Rocaille, Poivre, With Pleasure, Nuit de Noel.
Rose de Noel's bottle was produced by Lalique.
History:
Jean Francois Houbigant established his famous company at the tender age of 23, in 1774. The modest shop was located at no. 19 rue de Faubourg Saint-Honore, Paris and was named "A la Corbeille de Fleurs". His first products were toilet waters, scented gloves and powders.
In 1872, most of the products from the House of Houbigant were sold to the French aristocracy, nobility, clergy and the best known names in France. Among his most famous clients were Queen Marie Antoinette, who reportedly hurried to Houbigant to get her perfume bottles refilled with Eau de Mousseline and Eau de Millefleurs before fleeing from Paris.
The company survived the French Revolution and was passed on to Jean-Francois’s son and then to Chardin, another perfumer, who was appointed Napoleon III’s personal perfumer. In his book Memories of Saint-Helena, Victor Masson wrote that Napoleon’s wife Josephine was a devoted patron of Houbigant, and when her beloved husband lay dying, she had two of Houbigant’s perfumed pastilles burning in his bedroom.
Other famous clients included Princess Adelaide d’Orleans in 1829, Queen Victoria of England in 1838, the Emperor Napoleon III in 1870, and the Tsar of Russia in 1890, all appointed Houbigant as their royal perfumer.
After Chardin, two other perfumers acquired the company, Magny and Gabillot.
In 1881, the company was acquired by Javal & Paul Parquet, who was one of the first to use synthetics in his perfume creations. He was also the creator of the first fougere fragrance called Fougere Royale.
Around the turn of the century, another perfumer joined Houbigant, Robert Bieniame, who became the assistant to and protege of Paul Parquet, created the classic perfume Quelques Fleurs. Often regarded as the first true multi-floral scent, Quelques Fleurs was the springboard for this type of perfume.
At the 1900 Paris Exhibition, Houbigant introduced a special perfume, Coeur de Jeanette in honour of the exhibition, this scent was created by Paul Parquet. Houbigant participate din all major exhibitions and presentations ranged from luxury to low-priced.
The perfume bottle for the 1903 perfume Les Violettes was designed by the master glassmaker, Emilie Galle.
The 1911 fragrance La Rose France was created by Paul Parquet and named after the variety of rose which enjoyed great popularity during this time.
The Perfumes of Houbigant, starting from the most recent:
About some other Houbigant perfumes:
Ideal: launched in 1900, was the first composite perfume and a great success for many years. Its creator, Javal, took the idea for the box design from an Oriental carpet he had seen at Deauville.
Quelques Fleurs: created in 1912, was one of the first floral bouquet ever produced. The unique composition, includes lilac, rose, jasmine, violet and orchid.
Etude: presented in 1931, was the classic Thirties perfume The bottle rests on a silver plated base and is encased in a box of varnished wood.
Raffinee: introduced in 1982, it is composed of over two hundred ingredients, combining floral and oriental notes, including jasmine, rose and hyacinth, laced with spices, herbs and incense, The name is intended to evoke a certain refined elegance, as reflected in the packaging of lacquered red and gold.
Ciao: is a rich, floral-chypre fragrance, created around the essence of acanthus, a rare oriental flower, blended with jasmine, hyacinth and cassis, The woody, mossy base note is comprised of oak moss, sandalwood, and patchouli. First presented in 1980
Jean Patou was born in 1887 in the Basque region and died in 1936 at the age of only 49. By the age of 23, he moved to Paris and was already a successful dressmaker and tailor In 1923, he purchased a small shop, Maison Parry and had adopted the Patou name. His popularity grew among a loyal, private clientele and he subsequently founded his fashion and perfume house where he presented his premiere collection in 1919. This proved to be such a great success that he opened a office in New York to fill the demand for his American clients. He also expanded his business to the Coin des Sports boutique, a shop in Deauville and a summer house of couture in Biarritz..
He was the first to introduce sportswear for women, including tennis skirts, tennis shorts, knitted bathing suits, jersey cardigans and introduced complementary accessories for his clothes, putting his monogram on them where it would be seen. Another first was the first suntan lotion, women of the 1920s started sunbathing to attain the bronzed glow from the sun, and Patou introduced Huile de Chaldee. Huile de Chaldee was named after an ancient city in Babylonia that was legendary for its beautiful, amber skinned beauties.
Patou was among the first couturiers to include perfumes as part of a collection. He introduced his first three perfumes together in 1925, Amour Amour, Que Sais-Je?, and Adieu Sagesse, created with the help of Paul Poiret's perfumer, Henri Almeras. Patou also installed a cocktail bar for the gentleman while their ladies were being fitted for their haute couture. In 1930, he created a perfume bar for the amusement of his clients, encouraging them to concoct their own fragrances.
Jean Patou wanted to send a gift of appreciation to his many regular international clients who would be unable to visit Paris in that first year of the Great Depression. He asked Almeras to create something very strong, yet simple, no matter what the cost. This lead to the creation of the costliest perfume in the world, Joy. The predominant ingredients of Bulgarian rose and jasmine-one ounce, it is said requires 10,000 jasmine flowers and 28 dozen roses. The bottle was produced in three different designs. The first one, was designed to classical proportions by Louis Sue, the second was inspired by Jean Patou's own collection of antique Chinese snuff bottles, and the third was a cut crystal flacon produced by Baccarat.
Vantine's Oriental Store was a well known gift store that specialized in imported wares "from the Empires of Japan, China, India, China, Persia and the East". It was founded in 1869 by AA Vantine in New York City, establishing one of the first stores to import Oriental goods.Most of their incense burners were also imported from France. Vantine's supplied a touch of the exotic to Americans during the craze for all things Oriental.
Some commonly found items from Vantine's are the metal incense burners imported from France, incense tins, fans, postcards, advertisements, mahjonng sets, vases, Japanese dolls,and powder boxes.
The less commonly found items are:
Original Vantine's labels on these goods are scarce.
The company also provided mail order catalogues so that customers could "rest comfortably at home in your easy chair, and, at your leisure, select by mail, with absolute confidence, from the largest collection of Oriental goods in America".
Vantine's also had a fan catalog featuring over 100 different fan styles made of bamboo, bone, gauze, sandalwood, paper, silk and some with sequin spangled decorations. The 1906 ad stated that fans make souvenirs and gifts for cotillions, bridesmaids, weddings, dinners, and all other occasions.
On a darker note, Vantine's was bought in 1926 by mob gangster Arnold Rothstein who used the store as a front for his business in drug smuggling. Since Vantine's was a legitimate business with an excellent reputation, customs officials gave the shipments only a cursory search. This drug trafficking operation through Vantine's only lasted until 1928, when Rothstein was murdered.
The perfumes and toiletries listed below are ones that I have found in original advertisements, the dates given are from what year I saw them in an ad, they may have been introduced earlier, but I have no exact proof just yet.
The Perfumes of Vantine's:
Dana was established in Barcelona in 1921 by Javier Serra (former director of Myrurgia of Spain). The company then moved to Paris in 1932 at 9 rue de la Paix. The company was named after the Greek goddess Danae and this idea was incoporated into the Dana logo, which consisted of a beautiful woman's head, taken from a sculpture by Mariano Andreu.
Dana perfume took over many other companies such as Corday, Helena Rubinstein, Cover Girl, Shulton, Max Factor, Houbigant and Jaclyn Smith perfumes. Dana bought out the rights to these companies and produced their perfumes, sometimes reformulating them and keeping the original well known names, you will recognize some of these below.
The perfumes and colognes of Dana:
In this guide I have listed several different obscure or little known early French perfume companies and the vintage perfumes they produced. I have also included some Spanish, German and Italian companies. Many of these companies were shortlived or only created one perfume. Some companies will be found here as there isn't enough info to warrant their own guide. Information is very scant on these companies. Any extraneous information will be appreciated and will be added.
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Erizma, established in 1885 by J. Bijon and created rare luxury presentations. They also were exporters to the far East:
Guyla, established in 1926 at 40 rue de Paris, Epinay-sur-Seine, they made exceptional rare presentations:
Oviatt, department store in Los Angeles, California. the Oviatt Building was completed in 1927, and had Lalique glass panels. Lalique also created their bell shaped perfume bottle:
Felix Boissard, a British-French company, established around 1900 by John-Ernest Jewel, (a probable predecessor in France was Pennes Fils et Broissard). Affiliated to and represented by Heppels Ltd :
Nice-Flore, established in 1919 at 54 route du Var, Nice, France, by Union Francaise de Parfumerie et de Maroquinerie, they sold leather goods and perfumes, some presentations used bottles by Maurice Depinoix:
Pierre Dune, established in 1939 at 49 rue de Prony, Paris by Edmond Rosens, the first five perfumes were presented as potted plants in a flower cart:
Maurice Bertrand Carrere of Paris France,established in 1945 at 45 rue Pierre-Charron, Paris, very shortlived company:
Les Parfums de Mistinguett:
Monna Vanna, established in 1920 in Britain, then moved to at 120-122 rue Borghese, Neuilly (Seine) France. The name was adopted from the title of the play by Maeterlinck. They produced luxurious presentations. :
A. Bertelli (of 26 via Paolo Frisi, Milan Italy), produced pharmaceuticals. Their luxurious presentations were produced in France:
Mori of Paris France:
Ramey, established in 1913 at 332 rue Saint-Honore, Paris by Georges Herman as Laboratoires des Produits Radiaces:
De Luzy, established in 1917 at 5 rue Ybry, Neuilly (Seine), by Progalia SA :
Biette, established in 1892 by Alexis Biette. They had branches in major cites in Europe, Africa and the USA. The produced spectacular soap sets, often humorous. They started introducing superb perfume presentations in the 1920s:
Fracy of Paris France, established in 1922. They produced novelty perfumes as well as luxurious Viard presentations:
Pelissier-Aragon,Les Fontaines Parfums Grasse. Established by E. Alziary, became Alziary Fils in 1850, became Alziary et Barbe in 1863 and then Pelissier-Aragon in 1887 until 1924 when Emile-Andre Pelissier coined the appealing trade name "Les Fontaines Parfumees Grasse":
Lydes of 29 rue Auguste Bailly, Courbevoie (Seine) France, established in 1918 by Eugene Philippe Rodier. Their most successful perfume was their first, Ambre des Pagodes, which interestingly did not bear the name Lydes. The company became well known practically overnight and exported their luxurious presentations worldwide:
Ysiane of 38 rue d'Enghien,Paris France. Established around 1925 and although the company was shortlived, they managed to produce some charming presentations. They were affiliated to La Diaphane:
1926 le collier de perles
Delyna of 21 rue de la Breche-aux-Loups,Paris France. Established in 1925 by Maxime Patraud. acquired in 1945 by Cuban perfumer Bienvenido Fernandez:
Jacques Heim. Couture house of Isidore & Jeanne Heim established a fur business in 1898, their son Jacques introduce day and evening wear in the 1920s and sold perfumes to their clients in 1930 and introduced them to the public around 1945:
Paquin of Paris France, couture house of Jeanne Paquin, introduced perfumes and cosmetics in 1939 and the house closed in 1962:
Fragonard of Paris France, established in 1782 and known then as P. Mottet et Cie and Cresp. Martinenq. The company went bankrupt in 1914 and was acquired by Eugene Fuchs, who introduced interesting presentations in the 1920s an dinto the 1940s:
Rochambeau of New York City & Paris, a Franco-American company established in 1923 by Xavier Rochambeau and Robert Coudert de Saint-Chament. They specialized in French made medium and low priced novelty perfumes, very small and toy like, thin, blown glass bottles for export to the USA. Some of their perfume bottles are tiny glass balls in the shape of grape bunches or little square dice. They were affiliated to La Gourde du Poete, whose style is similar:
Lerys of Paris France, established in 1921 by Leon Bellon, produced luxurious presentations:
Doeuillet-Doucet of Paris France, couture house formed y merger of Doeillet and Doucet in 1929 and the company closed in 1932:
Jaspy of Paris, established around 1919 and subtitled "Parfums Modernes et Originaux" :
Murcy:
Sari:
Charles Fay, established in 1850 by Charles Fay and called Maison Fay. They were best known for their powder Veloutine, and therefore changed their name to Parfumere Veloutine. They won a gold medal at the 1900 Exposition:
Marques de Elorza of Paris France,was established by Avran Moscovici, a perfumer; at 73 avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris in 1926. They produced interesting and luxurious presentations in the 1920s, then after 1930, perfumes of lesser quality were produced. The company was also affiliated with Chenier and Parfums de Paul.
Parfums Loulette:
Bryenne of Paris France, established in 1911 by Jacques Brach:
Dorin, established in 1780 as a small cosmetics shop specializing in theatrical makeup, by famous actress Mademoiselle Montansier. Company was bought and sold several times and fell into the hands of JM Dorin in 1817. They exported world wide and won the gold medal in 1900:
Gal of Madrid Spain, established in 1900 and produced many luxury presentations and cosmetics:
Moiret of Paris, made perfumes during the 1920s:
JG Mouson & Co (of Frankfurt Germany):
Claire of Paris France, elegant Paris shop specializing in luxury fashions and perfumes, established in 1924 by Rodney Wanamaker (a mamber of the founding family of John Wanamaker, department stores in the USA):
Mme A. Girard et Cie of London, small prestigious company established in the late 19th century:
Jean Giraud Fils, established in 1853 as Giraud Freres, later known as J. Giraud Fils, acquired by various essential oils producers in Grasse, such as Honore-Joseph Sozio in 1900. They had large exports to South America:
Nissery of Asnieres, (Seine) France, established in 1921 by Jules-Joanin-Anatole Muraour. The company was affiliated to Mury. They produced elegant presentations:
Agnel of Paris France:
Louis Avenel of Paris, established in 1900 and had major exports to Great Britain. Some of their presentations featured Viard bottles:
1920 que veux-tu?
Lioret:
Rodin of Paris, established in 1946 by Norman SARL:
A. Euziere of Grasse, France, established in 1887 as Societe Euziere et Seytre. Became Henri Euziere et Cie in 1920, created some suberb presentations featuring Viard bottles:
Griet (of Buenos Aires,Argentina):
Clamy of Paris France, established in 1913 by Philippe de Back as Les Parfums de Clamy, The presentations featured luxurious Gaillard bottles. The company was acquired by Grenoville in 1943.
Coudray of Paris France, established in 1810 as a small cosmetics and perfume shop called Maugenet & Coudray. They became a major exporter during the 19th century and remained a family business until 1908 when Edouard Colmant acquired an interest. The company produced many luxury presentations:
Maudy of Colombes (Seine) France, established in 1928 by Adrienne Foym affiliated to de Musset and produced luxury presentations:
Drecoll, courture house in Paris,introduced perfumes in 1927 , then from 1929, sold perfumes under the Maggy Rouff name. Marcel Guerlain purchased Drecoll in 1944:
Plassard of Paris France, established in 1815 as Demarson, later Demarson et Cie. Demarson-Chetelat and Chetalat et Cie. The company exhibited regularly in 1819, 1839, 1844, 1849, 1855, 1867, and 1878, under the various names over the years. they were awarded many prizes at the exhibitions. Louis Plassad purchased the company in 1894 and renamed it L. Plassard. their most impressive presentations were before 1930, after 1930, their quality lessened:
Marquis of Paris, active during the 1920s and produced toiletries, perfumes and cosmetics, as well as producing such items for other perfumers and under their own name, primarily for export:
Saint Cyr of Paris France:
Altair:
Cadolle Freres of Paris France, established in 1889 as a corset shop in Buenos aires by Herminie Cadolle, opened Paris shop in 1910 as a family busines with fashionable clientele.Their perfumes were introduced in 1926:
Maggy Rouff, couture house established in 19th century, perfumes were introduced in 1927 and baccarat was a supplier of bottles. The company merged with Drecoll in 1929, the company was renamed Maggy Rouff in 1930 and Rouff perfumes were available until the 1940s:
Bruyere of Paris, couture house established in 1924 by Marie-Louise Bruyere and introduced perfumes around 1940:
Miro Dena, established around 1900 by Mirona B and Frederick Hubbard in Syracuse, New York. They later opened a store at 373 Fifth Avenue ,New York. They were very successful in the 1920s and produced French luxury presentations. The company was bought by Lancelle around 1930.
Mumtaz, was the marketing division of the India Importing Co, and launched fragrances in the 1930's. Most of the perfumes are in the solid form and iwll bein celluloid or bakelite containers, much akin to those manufactured for Molinard's Concreta. The Mumtaz ones are different from Molinard because they are small round disk shaped containers. The originally Arabic (masculine) adjective, Mumtaz, means distinguished or excellent. Arabs do not use it as a common name. The term was later adopted by Urdu, Persian and Turkish.
L'Institut de Beaute, of 26 place Vendome, Paris. A beauty salon established in 1895 by Victor Francois Merle with Elise-Marie Valentin Le Brun. The salon sold cosmetics, toiletries and some of the finest limited edition perfume presentations, most likely only available at the Paris salon. The salon later moved to 222 rue de Rivoli, Paris. They sold products to the USA under the name Klytia, as this was an affiliated company established in 1895 by Merle.
Coudray of Paris France, originally established in 1810 by M. Maugenet and Dr. Edmond Coudray. They later opened a small cosmetics and perfume shop called Maugenet & Coudray located at 348 rue Saint-Honore, Paris in 1882. They became a major exporter during the 19th century and remained a family business until 1908 when Edouard Colmant acquired an interest. The company produced many luxury presentations:
The perfumes of Blondeau et Cie. This British-French company was established in around 1888 at Lever House, Victoria Embankment, Blackfriars, London. Though they were primarily a soap manufacturing company, they produced some beautiful perfume presentations up until 1930. They were also the proprietors of the Vinolia Company Ltd, manufacturers of ‘Vinolia preparations’; their agents were Robert & Co of 76, New Bond Street, London and also at 5 Rue de la Paix, Paris. The Vinolia Company Ltd was established sometime in 1898 at 37-38 Upper Thames Street, London and produced mainly soaps with a limited production of luxury perfume presentations starting in 1892. They later closed their London showrooms in 1939, but continued production under the Lever Brothers name until early 1960’s.
The perfumes of Vinolia:
Parfumerie de Burmann, was established in 1934 at a shop on the Champs-Elysees in France, and later at 4 rue de la Verrerie, Paris. The company name was derived from those of the joint founders, Stephane Burdin and Andre Baumann. The company produced modest presentations using opaque glass bottles from the Cristalleries de Nancy. Their most important perfume bottle was for the scent La Sirene, from 1935, presented in a bottle designed in 1912 by Rene Lalique. The perfume bottle for Le Rayon d'Or of 1929 was presented in a flacon by the Cristalleries de Baccarat, bottle design # 681.
Ganna Walska Perfumes, Inc. of Paris & New York.The company was established in 1927 by Ganna Walska (born Hanna Puacz), an untalented soprano opera singer originally from Poland, at 2 rue de la Paix, Paris and then opened a branch in Manhattan in 1928, to be a sister store to the one in Paris, where she obtained small orders from department stores.The shortlived company introduced its first perfume, Divorcons (Let's Divorce). Though she married six times, the singer was notorious for a highly publicized acrimonious divorce in 1920 from Alexander Smith Cochran, a multimillionaire and carpet tycoon.
Fontanis of Paris & Neuilly France, established in 1919 by Daniel Jacquet, also the founder of Madhva in 1923. Fontanis produced luxurious presentations and won a gold medal at the 1925 Paris Exposition. the Fontanis vignette was designed by Heymann and reproduced on labels and metal plaques:
Madhva, established in 1923 by Daniel Jacquet,also the founder of Fontanis in 1919:
Benoit, established in 1926 by Marco Barouh, of Barouh & Hermanos located at 10 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, Paris in 1926; in association with Garcia Anastasios Somoza established at 77 A Prado St Havana, Cuba; launched a range of fragrances between 1926 and 1942. Affiliated with Brecher.
Brecher Perfumery was established by Paul Brecher in Pontoise at Paris around 1910. The company was then taken over by a new owner, Jacques Ernest Mazurier in 1918,moved the company to 10 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, Paris. The company was affiliated with both perfume companies of Benoit and Marquis de Elorza. Brecher's Perfumes were labelled ‘Aux Perfumeries Reunies’.
Andre Chenier was a Franco-American perfumer based in New York during the 1920s-30s; they were affiliated with Marquis de Elorza; and launched own range of fragrances as well a supplying B. Altman department stores.
Parfums de Paul was established by D.P. Paul in 366 Fifth Avenue New York and Paris and active between the two World Wars producing novelties and luxury presentations; they were affiliated to Marquis de Elorza.
Nogara of Grasse France,established in 1902 by Louis-Francois Pelissier. Around 1910,a major branch opened in Paris. They were affiliated to Pellisier-Aragon. They created beautiful presentations using bottles by Maurice Depinoix:
Lanselle of Paris France, established in 1930 by Rene Lanselle and Francois de Perthuis. Interestingly, the names of their first perfumes used card game terminology such as Banco:
Jean de Parys of Paris France, established in 1914 by Jean Cousin in Nanterre (Seine) and produced luxury presentations. Bottles were designed by Andre Jollivet and some produced by Lalique:
Erasmic & Co of London. Erasmic was a successful soap name introduced by J, Crosfield & Sons in 1889. A seperate company was created for perfumes and named Erasmic and a wide range of products. Lalique designed the bottle for De Lui. The business was later acquired by Lever Brothers:
Zofaly of Paris France, established in 1930 by Jeanne Crespin in Montargis (Lioret):
Lorenzy Palanca. This company was established during the 19th century by Jules Lorenzy at 61 boulevard des dames, Marseilles, France. Although the business primarily sold soaps, around the turn of the century, they also sold perfumes, razors, toiletries and cosmetics with beautiful paper graphics and stunning label designs. The business was successful enough to open major branches in Algiers, Oran, Nice and Toulon, but went bankrupt in 1930. The name Lorenzy-Palanca was subsequently used by a new company, Societe Anonyme Andre Lorenzy.I have listed all the various perfume/soap names I could find from this company, and I know there are more out there, if I missed one, please let me know. These are few and far between. Though it is possible to find old soap labels on the internet, and repros. Remember, when finding labels, the scent names for soaps are always preceded with Savon, the French word for soap.
Martial et Armand, couture house of 10 place Vendome, Paris. Established in 1907 by Martial & Armand, independent designers. Became very successful, perfumes introduced in 1924, was in exsitence til the 1950s,their bottles were usally produced by Lalique.
Morny was established in 1910 in Regent Street, London. To convey the French image that was so desirable in the perfume market, the company added a "de" in front of its name. They sold luxurious French style presentations with perfumes with French names, The company was so successful in France that it opened a branch in Paris.
Little is known about the Salancy parfumerie. From what I gather, Salancy was established at 21 rue des Abeilles, Tours, France in 1913 by Henri Salmon and Henri Chancy. The two made the name Salancy from Salmon and Chancy. They produced cosmetics in addition to perfumes. The company was affiliated to Parfumerie Olga of Tours, France.
Saint Denis of Paris France & New York City.
Violet (Pronounced VEOLAY) Perfume Company of Paris France & New York City. You can also find the perfume company spelled Veolay. Veolay also manufactured compacts.
Silka.
Silka.Established by Maurice Roussel at 16 quai de la Megisserie, Paris in 1909. He was related to Parfumerie Roussel family which was established in 1852, producer of the very successful Eau Gorlier in the 19th century. Silka was mainly a manufacturer of refined and sophiosticated perfumes and cosmetics with romantic, original perfume names. Their perfumes of the 1910-1920s period were marked by striking and unusual luxury presentations. The company was shut down during World War II and continued operations after the war was over until around 1950. Company revived sometime in the late 1990’s.
Mury of Paris France. Established in 1917, Mury produced perfumes, cosmetics and toiletries. The company was affiliated with Henri Muraour, an important essential oils company founded in North Africa in 1789. They had branches in Algiers, Grasse & Paris. They became a major company in the 1920s with the success of the perfume Narcisse Bleu. Mury was known for their elegant presentations, but later made lower priced perfume presentations.
Favolys, established in 1925 at 1 rue Pierre-Joigneaux, Asnieres (Seine) France, by Rene Desseignes who also established Parfumerie Francis in 1924 and Rendes in 1924, all of these companies were very shortlived and their bottles are rare:
Pleville, Paris France, established in 1922 by Michel Pleville. they were affiliated to Dalon:
Dalon, established in 1924 and affiliated to Pleville:
Viville of Paris France, established in 1892 when Rene Albert Viville acquired Maison Camus, a company established in 1836 by Ernest Camus. They created low priced to luxury perfume presentations. Their best seller of the 19th century was the perfume Le Parfum des Femmes de France. The firm was later acquired by Yardley.:
Gelle Freres of Paris France, established in 1826 by the brothers Augustin & Jean-Baptiste Gelle after purchase of formulas and shop which previously belonged to Fargeon Jeune, descendant of perfumer to Louis XV. Augustin's father in law, Emile Lecaron succeeded him. The company became a major exporter and produced luxurious presentations. They were awarded many prizes and the gold medal in 1925. :
The perfumes of Chevalier Garde:
Clamy of Paris.Established in 1913 by Philippe de Back as Les parfumes de Clamy, Creations d'Art at Arcade des Champs-Elysees,Paris.The company produced luxury presentations featuring Gaillard bottles.The business was acquired by Grenoville in 1943.
Verlayne of Paris. Established in 1944 at 9 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore, Paris.
Marny of Paris France. Established sometime in the early 1900s and stayed in business until it was bought out by Jeunesse in 1945.Lalique produced a perfume bottle for Marny.
Les Parfums de Marcy.Established around 1910 possibly by Lazare Bloch at a small factory at Les Lilas. After becoming more successful a shop was opened at 120 avenue des Champs-Elysees in Paris.After the Second World War, the company was then affiliated with Societe Anonyme des Parfums Sidlay, with Paul Heymann as proprietor and true innovator. Many high quality presentations were created such as Les Fleurs Miraculeuses, Le Bouquet Miraculeux, Le Bracelet Miraculeux, and Le Collier Miraculeux.
Honore Payan. The company was situated in Grasse, France. Honore Payan established his perfumery company in 1854 in Grasse and then moved to 33 boulevard Malesherbes,Paris.
AJ Hilbert & Co. of Milwaukee & De Pere, WI. In addition to perfumes, it seems this company also produced flavoring extracts, toiletries and cosmetics. Their perfumes were often combined with the words Essence De Luxe or Ultra Ess (Ultra Essence). The company seems to have had it start in the 1890s and continued up until the late 1920s. Their products were offered in the Sears & Roebuck mail order catalogs in the early 1900s.The perfumes of AJ Hilbert & Co:
Godet Perfumery was established at 37 rue saint-Lazare, Paris in 1901 by Julien-Joseph Godet. The company sold perfumes and cosmetics, such as the popular Ma Poudre (My Powder) in 1911, which proved to be an avant garde presentation for its time. Godet succeeded in becoming a major international company by 1913, sadly the same year in which Godet died. The company was then taken control by his widow Losuie and the director, Abel Ravaud. the company won a gold medal at the 1925 Exposition in Paris. The company's perfume bottles displayed some of the finest labels of the era.
Lournay of 4 rue de la Paix, Paris.Lournay was a Franco-American company established in 1900 They produced low-priced to luxury perfume presentations until 1945, when they were acquired by Colgate.One of the finest and most rare of presentations introduced by Lournay would have to be the luxury Julien Viard edition for the perfume Vivante (alive) in 1923. This clear and frosted bottle had three identical Grecian figures on the bottle in brown patina.
Guimet of Paris,France and New York City.Be on the lookout for the satin glass powder box created for Guimet in the early 1930s, I have seen this jar in pink glass.
Moehr perfumery of Monte Carlo. It was established by Nestor Moehr and Georges Moehr.
Mouilleron of 2 quai Billancourt, Billancourt (Seine) France, was established in 1819 and has a successful perfumery company until it was acquired by Cottan in 1935.Diamant Bleu of 156 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore,Paris was established in 1907 by F. Bagot & Cie. They made perfumes and dental products. In 1912, they were bought out by Groupement International des Grands Coiffeurs. Later purchased by Maurice Chalom & Elie Devaux du Gourd de Bruniere in 1926. Their most famous perfume was for Etoilee de Bagdad of 1927. In 1937 they were acquired by Cottan.Groupement International des Grandes Coiffeurs of 16 rue Saulnier, Paris was established around 1900 to provide luxury perfumes, beauty products and toiletries for sale at hairdressing salons.Cottan (Cottan-Porte) of 40 rue de Chateaudun, Paris was established in 1832 by Docteur Cottan and named La Parfumerie de la Societe Hygenique du Docteur Cottan 1840.The company manufactured perfumes, costmetics and toiletries, they produced unusual luxury presentations in the 1920s.
The perfumes of Mouilleron:
The perfumes of Diamant Bleu:
The perfumes of Cottan,also known as Societe Hygienique:
Callot Soeurs of 9-10 avenue Matignon,Paris, was established in 1895 by three sisters,Marie Callot Gerber (a designer), Marthe Callot Bertrand and Regine Callot Chantrelle. Under the creative designs of Marie, and designer friend Madame Madeliene Vionnet, Callot Soeurs became a leading fashion house, producing day time clothes, Oriental and period at-home and evening gowns. All creations featured the use of luxurious fabrics, sumptuous embroideries and fine fashion details. In 1923, perfumes, mostly inspired by China were introduced and were available up until the 1950s. The boxes for perfume were in the same shape as the boxes for the fashion house's clothes. The design house of Madame Vionnet of 50 avenue Montaigne,Paris, was established in 1912 by Madeleine Vionnet, who had previously worked for Kate Reilly of London, Callot Soeurs of Paris and Doucet of Paris. She was among the first to introduce collections without corsets,said to be inspired by actress Isadora Duncan, who refused to wear corsets. Her couture house closed during World War I and reopened in 1919. She catered to the most prestigious of clientele. She introduced perfumes in 1924 and initially offered them only to her clients, there are only two commercial presentations known. Some of her early perfumes had simple letter names. Her salons closed in 1939. You can find more fashion info about Vionnet online.The design house of Louiseboulanger was also affiliated with Callot Soeurs. Louiseboulanger of 3 rue de Berri,Paris was established in 1923 by Louise Boulanger who catered to small elite group. The fabulous Marlene dietrich was a client. Louiseboulanger only launched one perfume commercially. Her house closed in 1939.The design house of Cheriut of 21 place Vendome,Paris, was affiliated with Louiseboulanger and was established by Madame Cheriut. She introduced perfumes around 1925 with the debut o fher signature fragrance.
The perfumes of Callot Soeurs:
The perfumes of Louiseboulanger:
The perfumes Madame Madeleine Vionnet:
A. Gravier of Paris, and 6 rue Casimir-Pinel,Neuilly (Seine) France.Established around 1880 by Alphonse Gravier at 83 rue du Temple in Paris. His company became very important after the introduction of Dr. Peterson and Salutine health products: toothpaste,soaps and perfumes. A. Gravier launched several luxury presentations during the 1920s and own a Silver medal at the Paris Exhibition in 1925. Gravier's perfume bottle for the 1926 scent, La Cascade was made by Baccarat.A. Gravier's labels were supplied by G. Millot starting around 1890. Millot's other clients included: J. Giraud et Fils, Godet, & Lorenzy-Palanca.
Véritable Essence de Lavande de l'Orisans
Joubert of New York City & Jersey City,NJ. Was also affiliated with the Jolind and Blue Waltz companies. I am sure there are more perfumes to be found, if I left one out, let me know.
Henri Bendel Inc. of New York City. Henri Bendel opened his first store in 1912 in New York City. Like other fine department stores of the era, he introduced house perfumes starting in 1915. Born in Louisiana in 1858, he opened a luxury fashion house at 10 West 57th Street, New York, USA in 1896. He was the first American House to launch fragrances; also sold cosmetics and toiletries .
United Drug Co. of New York City and Boston, Massachusetts. They also operated under the name Langlois. You can also find compacts from Langlois, usually marked Cara Nome, Shari or Jonteel.
The Bichara perfume company was established in 1896 by Bichara Malhame (from Beirut), who styled himself as "The Syrian Perfumer". The company was first located in Rouen and Dieppe. His perfumes were advertised as "parfums enivrants" (intoxicating perfumes).
The hair dye "Extrait de Henne Bichara" of 1899 was so successful that it financed the introduction of luxury perfumes. Bichara maintained that luxury image through it's shop and constant exposure in the French press. It was advertised as "Allah est grand et Bichara est son parfumeur" (Allah is good and Bichara is his perfumer"). Bichara also produced fine hennas for the hair, Le Henne Bichara, and kohl eye makeup called Mokoheul, this eye cosmetic was probably introduced in 1913 and stayed very popular into the 1920s. Another eye cosmetic was Cillana which I found reference in a 1913 ad. These two eye cosmetics were advertised as for "charme, beaute, sante des yeux", (charm , beauty and eye health). Eau des Roses Syrie was a skin brightener which also freshened the skin.
Around the turn of the century, the company became immensely successful with Sarah Bernhardt as his muse, who publicly endorsed perfumes. Bichara perfumes were her favorites.Bichara's client included the playwright Edmond Rostand who called Bichara " the poet of perfume". Other notable clients were: Gabriel Faure, Gabriele d'Annunzio, and Edouard de Max.Bichara supplied the Royal Egyptian court. In the 1920s, he opened a luxury fashion shop in London, introducing "couture made perfumes". The company exported worldwide.
One of his finest perfume presentations was for the 1928 perfume Ramses II, in a tall, obelisk shaped bottle decorated with Egyptian hieroglyphs. The bottle was manufactured by the Cristalleries de Saint-Louis. This bottle is rarely found today and when it does surface, it commands high prices fit for a pharaoh himself.
Another fine perfume presentation was for the perfume Myrbaha, launched in 1913, Baccarat bottle, frosted stopper in shape of pharaoh's head with grey patina. I have seen this bottle also used for Nirvana, Ambre, Yahvahna and Chypre perfumes. 5 7/8" tall. I have also had this stopper on a very rare pyramid shaped bottle before.
Early labels on cosmetics and perfumes, portrayed Bichara seizing the mythological Fortune by the hair with the inscription "Comment Bichara saisit la fortune" ( How Bichara grabs good fortune). An appropriate image since Bichara's original fortune was made on the hair product "Le Henne Bichara". The labels were redesigned in the 1920s by FL Schied in Art Deco style. Bichara also appeared on a Baccarat stopper portraying himself as an Egyptian pharaoh. Bichara Malhame died in 1930 and was succeeded by his daughter, Rose but the quality of perfume presentations declined and character of company changed, exemplified by Handle with Care in 1945. Bichara continued production into the 1950s.
Coryse was established in 1919 by Maurice Blanchetat 64 rue de la Chaussee-d'Antin, Paris and sold perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics. He purchased the perfumery Salome in 1929 and the two companies merged into Coryse-Salome. Salome was established in 1909 by Marius Cartier and sold perfumes,cosmetics and toiletries at his shop at 8 place de l'Opera, Paris. Salome was affiliated with Cartier. Cartier was established as "Parfums d'Art,Grand Luxe" by Marius Cartier around 1900 at 9 rue Garnier, Neuilly (Seine) France. Cartier sold perfumes of the highest luxury and Baccarat was a supplier o ftheir perfume bottles.
The perfumes of Coryse:
The perfumes of Coryse-Salome:
Legrain was established in 1921 at 9 rue Richepanse, Paris by Simon Moscovitz with associate Alzic Manole. Moscovitz was later known as Simon Legrain or isidore Legrain. They produced hluxurious and humorous presentations.
D’Ormo Company of New York and New Haven, Connecticut.
Aristide Boucicaut for his Paris department store, Le Bon Marche. I know there are more perfumes that may be found, but here are all the ones I was able to locate. Soap names will be preceded with Savon. In 1924, Baccarat produced a crystal bottle for Boucicaut Maison. All dates are circa. Perfumes and soaps can be found with either the Au Bon Marche or A. Boucicaut name on the labels.
The perfumes of Au Bon Marche:
J. Chamberry of France. The dates listed are circa dates as information is extremely scant on this short lived perfumer.
Jean Giraud Fils of Grasse and Paris France. The company produced perfumes and soaps and was established in 1853 as Giraud Freres. Later on it was simply named Jean Giraud Fils and was acquired by various essential oil producers in Grasse, such as Honore-Joseph Sozio around 1900. The company was successful and had large exports to South America. Other information is scant and I have provided all I can find. Some of the perfumes below are circa dated and may be older than the dates in which I have provided..
Bacorn Company of Elmira, NY.