CLEOPATRA'S BOUDOIR
Perfumes & More!

Rosine Perfumes

 

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by Rosine, the perfumery by designer Paul Poiret of Paris France. He was the first fashion designer to establish a perfume company.

Les Parfums de Rosine were established in 1911 by designer Paul Poiret with his wife Denise at 107 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore in Paris. Rosine sold perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics as fitting accessories for his avant garde fashions.  The company was named after Poiret's eldest daughter. Many artists and illustrators worked for Rosine. Poiret lost financial control around 1925 and the business was later acquired by Societe Centrale de la Parfumerie Francais (L. Legrand) in 1930 and managed by Madame Nevarte Cordero. Most of the existing Rosine perfumes were produced until the 1950s in standard presentations.

Poiret's perfumes were created with the help of the perfumer-glassmaker Maurice Schaller, and later with the celebrated Almeras. The perfume names evoked the exotic with names such as Le Fruit Defendu, Borgia, Nuit de Chine, Le Balcon, and Shakhyamuni. Nuit de Chine was created by Maurice Schaller and was originally called Nuit d'Orient.

The perfume Coeur en Folie was introduced at the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris.

The perfume bottles for Rosine were produced by Depinoix and Lefebure as well as Poiret's own companies Atelier Colin & Atelier Martine. Most of the bottles were hand painted at Atelier Martine. The packaging of his perfumes resembled the look and materials of his fashions, with great emphasis on vivid colors, opulent textures and harlequin and Oriental lampshade patterns. Arlequinade was directly inspired by harlequin and had gilded triangles on its bottle along with a Bakelite cap shaped like a tricorne hat.

The Perfumes of Rosine:

  • 1912 Chez  Poiret
  • 1912 La Rose de Rosine
  • 1912 Es Pailer Du Roy
  • 1912 Fan Fan Le Tulipe
  • 1913 Nuit de Chine
  • 1913 Le Minaret
  • 1913 Shakhyamuni
  • 1913 Huit
  • 1913 Avenue du Bois
  • 1914 Borgia
  • 1914 Violette
  • 1914 Le Balcon
  • 1915 Le Fruit Defendu
  • 1915 Le Sang Francais
  • 1917 La Coupe d'Or
  • 1918 Coraline de Rosine
  • 1919 Pierrot
  • 1919 Aladin
  • 1919 Hahna, L'Etrange Fleur
  • 1920s Eau de Cologne Rosine
  • 1921 Lait de Junon
  • 1921 Toute La Foret
  • 1922 Antinea  Toute le Foret

  • 1922 Antinea Ou Au Fond De La Mer

  • 1922 Chypre
  • 1922 Le Mouchoir de Rosine
  • 1922 La Rose Grande Modele
  • 1922 Mea Culpa
  • 1922 Le Minaret
  • 1922 Maharadjah
  • 1922 Le Bouquet D'Apollon
  • 1924 Arlequinade
  • 1924 Pot Au Rose
  • 1924 Sa Chambre
  • 1925 Coeur En Folie
  • 1925 Coup de Foudre
  • 1925 Connais Tu Le Pays
  • 1926 Qui es-tu
  • 1926 D'ou viens-tu?
  • 1926 Pelosine
  • 1926 "1925"
  • 1928 Gardenia Sakya Mouni

Prince Matchabelli Perfumes

History:

The company was created by Prince Georges V. Matchabelli who was not only a previous Georgian Prince of Georgian Prince and ambassador to Italy, but also was an amateur chemist who began creating perfumes for his friends and family as a hobby. George was a Russian exile who fled the Soviet Union and immigrated to the USA after the Russian Revolution. He and his wife, Princess Norina Matchabelli (an actress whose stage name was Maria Carmi), opened a small antiques shop Le Rouge et le Noir at 545 Madison Avenue. The name derived from Stendhal's novel, red for aristocracy (Matchabelli's origins) and black for clergy (The Miracle, a religious play). They later established the Prince Matchabelli Perfume Company in 1926.Perfumes were personally blended for clients. The first three perfumes were Princess Norina, Queen of Georgia and Ave Maria. The company became known for the many color-coded, crown-shaped bottles that housed such well-known perfume brands as The crown-shaped bottle was designed by Norina after the Matchabelli crown and was introduced in 1928 with labels on the underside. Matching cosmetic cases and sets with miniature crowns.

The color coding of the bottles initially:

  • Queen of Georgia in red/gilded (1928)
  • Princess Norina in red/gilded (1928).
  • Ave Maria in black/gilded (1928).
  • Duchess of York in a periwinkle blue opaline/gilded (1934).
  • Katherine the Great in white/gilded (1935).
  • Beloved in blue/gilded (1940).
  • Crown Jewel in clear/gilded (1946)
  • Wind Song in green/gilded (1953).
  • Added Attraction in red/gilded (1956).

Dating your bottles: The older Matchabelli crown shaped bottles are all glass, including the cross shaped stopper. These bottles seem to command higher prices than the plastic versions. The older bottles have colored glass, the later bottles are colored enamel over glass. The tallest bottles stand 6 1/4" tall and the smallest measure just 1 5/6" tall. The 1950s mini versions omit the cross and have a simple brass or plastic screw cap, these bottles measure 1 5/8" tall and 1 1/4" tall.

The Perfumes of Prince Matchabelli:

  • 1924 Violettes de la Reine de Matchabelli
  • 1927 Ambre Royale
  • 1927 Imperial Violet
  • 1927 Princess Nina
  • 1928 Queen of Georgia
  • 1928 Queen of the Nile
  • 1928 Queen of Georgia
  • 1928 Queen of Egypt
  • 1928 Queen of Babylon
  • 1929 Princess Norina
  • 1929 Ave Maria
  • 1932 Aromizer
  • 1933 Princess Marie
  • 1934 Duchess of York
  • 1934 Grace Moore
  • 1935 Katherine the Great
  • 1935 Muguet
  • 1935 Carnation
  • 1935 Lilac
  • 1935 Honeysuckle
  • 1936 Cherokee
  • 1936 Prince Georges
  • 1936 Sceptre
  • 1936 Snowball
  • 1937 Infanta
  • 1937 Jingle Bell
  • 1938 Abano
  • 1939 Princess of Wales
  • 1940 Christmas Rose
  • 1940 Potpourri
  • 1940 Summer Frost
  • 1942 Call To Arms
  • 1942 Gypsy Pattern
  • 1943 Easter Bonnet
  • 1946 Crown Duet
  • 1946 Crown Jewel
  • 1947 Crown Prince
  • 1947 Summer Frost
  • 1947 Crown Princess
  • 1950 Beloved
  • 1950 Stradivari
  • 1950 Prophecy
  • 1953 Lilith
  • 1954 Summer Shower
  • 1954 Wind Song
  • 1955 Firelight
  • 1955 Odyssey
  • 1955 Christmas Angel
  • 1955 Guiding Star
  • 1955 Reprise
  • 1956 Added Attraction
  • 1956 Spring Fancy
  • 1956 Christmas Angel
  • 1956 Apassionata
  • 1957 Sybarite
  • 1957 Gay Suggestion
  • 1959 Golden Autumn
  • 1959 Sheer Madness
  • 1960 Beloved Moment
  • 1960 Sheer Madness
  • 1962 Avance
  • 1970 Cachet
  • 1975 Aviance
  • 1976 Wind Song Breezy
  • 1980 Chimere
  • 1982 Matchabelli
  • 1983 Aviance Night Musk
  • 1983 Cachet Noir
  • 1985 Decadence
  • 1988 Hero
  • 1989 Night Rythyms
  • 1990 Luna Mystique
  • 1997 Unruly

 

Added attraction,Princess Norina & Queen of Georgia

Crown Jewel

Ave Maria

Beloved & Duchess of York

Katharine the Great

Wind Song

Vintage Richard Hudnut Perfumes

 

Around 1880, a small pharmacy was opened in New York city and sold perfumes, cosmetics and assorted toiletries. Richard Hudnut, the son of the proprietor of the shop, became the first American selling luxury perfume presentations, (though some of these were created in France) in an elegant shop which was directly influenced by the French and European perfumeries. In 1916, the company was sold to Henry & Gustavus Adolphus Pfeiffer and Richard Hudnut was no longer involved in the business. As a result of this, Gustavus Adolphus became the president of the Richard Hudnut Company.  In the 1920s, the company had expanded into Europe, and acquired the French style. The company proudced several luxurious presentations during the 1920s but the quality of designs declined gradually starting in the 1930s and right on thru to the 1950s.When Richard Hudnut opened a new shopat 20 rue de la Paix, Paris in 1927, he introduced four new blends of perfumes called Le Debut. Each perfume was of the same Art Deco octagonal shape, but had it's own color to suggest four different moods. Original boxes are rare to find, but if you are lucky enough you might find that Le Debut Vert came in a green box, Le Debut Blanc came in a white box, Le Debute Noir came in a red box and Le Debut Bleu came in a blue box. The rarest bottle color is the white bottle. The perfume bottles came in five different sizes from 5 1/8" tall to diminutive 1 1/4" tall bottles. Matching compacts and vanity cases were also sold.

Please do not confuse this bottle with the blue 1987 bottle for LouLou by Cacharel, the stoppers are completely different.

The perfumes of Richard Hudnut:

  • 1880 Queen Anne Cologne
  • 1880 English Lavender
  • 1880 English Lavender
  • 1880 Carnation Pink
  • 1880 Carnegie Pink
  • 1880 Imperial Violets
  • 1880 Jockey Club
  • 1880 Lily of the Valley
  • 1880 Orange Blossoms
  • 1880 Persian Heliotrope
  • 1880 Peau D'Espagne
  • 1880 Sweet Verbena
  • 1880 White Hyacinths
  • 1889 Jack Rose
  • 1893 Peau d'Espagne
  • 1894 Bouquet Melba
  • 1894 Heliotrope
  • 1894 Imperial Russe
  • 1894 Infant Eulalie
  • 1894 Japonotis
  • 1894 Jasminax
  • 1894 Jockey Club
  • 1894 Lillian Russell
  • 1894 Lily of the Valley
  • 1895 Indianotis
  • 1895 Phantom
  • 1895 Lilyopsis
  • 1895 Moska Lily
  • 1895 Opoponax
  • 1895 Chypre
  • 1895 Gardenia
  • 1895 Sappho Pink
  • 1895 Sweet Orchids
  • 1895 White Rose
  • 1895 White Lilac
  • 1895 Stephanotis
  • 1895 Zanzibar Lily
  • 1895 White Iris
  • 1895 White Heliotrope
  • 1895 Vert Rose
  • 1895 Verveine
  • 1895 Vetiver
  • 1896 Violet Superba
  • 1896 Violet Sec
  • 1896 Violette Superba
  • 1896 Violet Extreme
  • 1896 Napoleon Violet
  • 1896 San Remo Violet
  • 1896 Sweet Violet
  • 1896 Portugal
  • 1896 Mexican Cactus
  • 1896 Wood Violet
  • 1896 Concrete,Essence of Violet
  • 1896 Imperial Russe
  • 1898 Yanky
  • 1898 Yanky Clover, reintroduced in 1948
  • 1902 Cardinal
  • 1902 Du Barry
  • 1902 Aimee
  • 1902 Violet Sec Toilet Water
  • 1903 Cypresia
  • 1903 Yadma
  • 1903 Veldt Blumen
  • 1903 Monalisa
  • 1904 Chrysis
  • 1904 La Reve
  • 1908 925 Cologne
  • 1908 Ambree
  • 1908 Ambree Rosa
  • 1908 Ambree Violet
  • 1908 Violet Superba
  • 1908 Bay Rum
  • 1908 Cardinal Lily
  • 1908 Concrete Essence of Violet
  • 1908 Double Peau d'Espagne
  • 1908 Florida Water
  • 1908 Ideal Pink
  • 1908 Ideal Violet
  • 1908 Marvelous
  • 1908 Moresco
  • 1910 Frangi Pansy
  • 1910 Headache Cologne
  • 1910 Mexican Cactus Cologne
  • 1910 Myrtis
  • 1910 Quadruple Orris
  • 1910 Vanity
  • 1910 Rose Rosee
  • 1910 Eros
  • 1910 Sweet Lavender
  • 1910 Yadma
  • 1910 Yanky Pink
  • 1910 Yanky Rose
  • 1910 Yanky Tea Rose
  • 1910 Sandalwood
  • 1912 Elaine
  • 1923 Superba
  • 1912 Heart of the Heliotrope
  • 1912 Soul of the Violet
  • 1912 Extreme
  • 1912 Rose of Omar
  • 1913 Plaza
  • 1914 Tout Mon Jardin
  • 1914 Hudnutine
  • 1915 Three Flowers, reintroduced in 1923
  • 1920 Acrasia
  • 1920 Watteau
  • 1920 Lily of the Valley
  • 1923 Barcarolle
  • 1923 Silhouette
  • 1923 Spring Song
  • 1923 Serenade
  • 1924 Deauville
  • 1924 Pour Vous
  • 1924 Gemey
  • 1924 Mitzi
  • 1924 Temple d'Amour
  • 1924 Fleurs A Vous
  • 1924 Maytime
  • 1925 Bon Voyage
  • 1925 Mon Souvenir
  • 1925 Gondola
  • 1926 La Soiree
  • 1926 La Reverie
  • 1927 La Pyramide
  • 1927 Les Cascades
  • 1927 Deauville Perfume Pats
  • 1927 Le Debut
  • 1927 Le Debut Blanc
  • 1927 Le Debut Verte
  • 1927 Le Debut Bleue
  • 1927 Le Debut Noir
  • 1928 Richesse
  • 1929 Tres Flores
  • 1932 Chevron
  • 1936 R.S.V.P.
  • 1937 Teak
  • 1937 Vogue
  • 1944 Blizzard
  • 1945 Promenade
  • 1946 Firebrand
  • 1946 Prmitive
  • 1947 Angel Choir
  • 1947 Prediction
  • 1948 Grand Gesture
  • 1948 Frozen Champagne
  • 1950 Harlequin
  • 1950 Kaleidoscope
  • 1951 Magic Lantern
  • 1951 Champagne Taste
  • 1951 Fragrance Frills
  • 1951 Dream House
  • 1951 Frozen Fragrance
  • 1952 Tres Gai
  • 1954 Charmed Circle
  • 1954 Monkey Business
  • 1954 Victorian Fragrances
  • 1954 Twinkle Toes
  • 1954 Perfume Jewels
  • 1953 Pet Fragrance
  • 1955 Guys And Dolls
  • 1955 Two Little Indians
  • 1956 Young Folks
  • 1957 Oh La La!
  • 1957 Seven Winds
  • 1958 Drei Blumen
  • 1961 Fatale

 

Caron Perfumes

In the early years of the turn of the century, Ernest Daltroff, was beginning to get fascinated by scent and fragrance creation. So in 1903,  Daltroff purchased a perfumery in Asnieres called Parfumerie Emilia, a northwestern suburb of Paris, Daltroff's first perfume was named Royal Emilia, after the shop. His business was such a success that he purchased another small perfumery and haberdashery store from Anna-Marie Caron, called the Magasin Caron at 10 rue de la Paix, in the fashionable heart of Paris and renamed it Parfumerie Caron. He liked the name and decided it would be easy for his customers to pronounce in any language and remember as well as looking good on packaging. The perfume Royal Emilia was renamed Royal Caron in 1904..

As the clientele grew, he took on a partner, Felicie Vanpouille, a young dressmaker, and Daltroff's lover. She was made the artistic director of the company and was responsible for design and packaging. Many of the perfume flacons used by Caron were designed by Felicie, such as Chantecler, Royal Emilia, and others. But her best known design was for the bottle of Narcisse Noir. This bottle was so popular that it was being copied by other companies for their own versions of Narcisse perfumes. 

The firm continued to prosper and exported perfumes to the United States, South America, England. They opened a branch in 1923 in New York to satisfy their American cliente.  Subsequently the firm expanded in the years between the wars and was awarded the Legion d'Honneur by the French Government for its outstanding economic achievements.

Ernest fled to the United States two years before the start of World War II, he died in 1941. Felicie later remarried and her new name was Felicie Bergaud,and continued to run the firm until she sold it in 1962.

The Perfumes of Caron:

  • 1904 Royal Emilia, later Royal Caron
  • 1906 Ravissement
  • 1906 Modernis
  • 1906 Chantecler
  • 1906 Bel Amour, reintroduced in 1923
  • 1907 Rarissime
  • 1908 Affolant
  • 1910 Rose Precieux
  • 1910 Isadora
  • 1911 Narcisse Noir
  • 1911 Jacinthe Precieuse
  • 1911 Elegancia
  • 1912 L'Infini
  • 1913 Violette Precieuse
  • 1913 Radiant
  • 1917 N'Aimez Que Moi
  • 1917 Mimosa
  • 1917 London Paris
  • 1919 Tabac Blond
  • 1920 La Mode
  • 1921 Mes Jeunes Années
  • 1922 Nuit de Noel
  • 1922 Narcisse Blanc
  • 1922 Bichon Fard, reintroduced in 1928
  • 1923 Acaciosa
  • 1924 Bain de Champagne
  • 1924 Pocahontas
  • 1927 Pois de Senteur de Chez Moi
  • 1927 Bellodgia
  • 1927 Chez Moi
  • 1929 En Avion
  • 1933 Les Rocailles de Caron
  • 1933 Nuit D'Avion
  • 1934 Fleurs de Rocaille
  • 1934 Caron Pour Un Homme
  • 1935 Madame Peau Fine
  • 1935 Les Cent Fards
  • 1936 La Fete de Roses
  • 1936 French Cancan
  • 1936 Adastra
  • 1939 Voeu de Noel
  • 1939 Alpona
  • 1939 Rose de Noel
  • 1941 Royal Bain de Caron/Royal Bain de Champagne
  • 1947 Farnesiana
  • 1948 Tabac Noir
  • 1949 Rose
  • 1949 With Pleasure
  • 1949 Or et Noir
  • 1949 Caron Pour Une Femme (original)
  • 1952 Muguet du Bonheur
  • 1954 Poivre
  • 1954 Coup de Fouet
  • 1970 Infini
  • 1976 Yatagan
  • 1980 Eau de Caron
  • 1982 Nocturnes
  • 1985 The Third Man/Number 3
  • 1986 Montaigne
  • 1990 Parfum Sacre
  • 1993 Fleur de Rocaille
  • 1994 Caron Eau de Cologne
  • 1996 Eau Pure
  • 1996 Aimez-Moi
  • 1997 Eau Fraiche
  • 1999 Eau de Caron Forte
  • 2000 Lady Caron
  • 2000 L'Anarchiste

The three most sought after perfume bottle from Caron are Adastra, Alpona and Voeu de Noel. These three perfumes were presented at the Worlds Fair in 1939.

Several bottles were produced by Baccarat, so be sure to check the base of your perfume for any markings, the perfume bottles are for Narcisse Noir, Or et Noir, Fete de Roses, Lady Caron, Bellodgia, Tabac Blond, Fleur de Rocaille, Poivre, With Pleasure, Nuit de Noel.

Rose de Noel's bottle was produced by Lalique.

Vintage Houbigant Perfumes

History:

Jean Francois Houbigant established his famous company at the tender age of 23, in 1774. The modest shop was located at no. 19 rue de Faubourg Saint-Honore, Paris and was named "A la Corbeille de Fleurs". His first products were toilet waters, scented gloves and powders.

In 1872, most of the products from the House of Houbigant were sold to the French aristocracy, nobility, clergy and the best known names in France. Among his most famous clients were Queen Marie Antoinette, who reportedly hurried to Houbigant to get her perfume bottles refilled with Eau de Mousseline and Eau de Millefleurs before fleeing from Paris.

The company survived the French Revolution and was passed on to Jean-Francois’s son and then to Chardin, another perfumer, who was appointed Napoleon III’s personal perfumer. In his book Memories of Saint-Helena, Victor Masson wrote that Napoleon’s wife Josephine was a devoted patron of Houbigant, and when her beloved husband lay dying, she had two of Houbigant’s perfumed pastilles burning in his bedroom.

Other famous clients included Princess Adelaide d’Orleans in 1829, Queen Victoria of England in 1838, the Emperor Napoleon III in 1870, and the Tsar of Russia in 1890, all appointed Houbigant as their royal perfumer.

After Chardin, two other perfumers acquired the company, Magny and Gabillot.

In 1881, the company was acquired by Javal & Paul Parquet, who was one of the first to use synthetics in his perfume creations. He was also the creator of the first fougere fragrance called Fougere Royale.

Around the turn of the century, another perfumer joined Houbigant, Robert Bieniame, who became the assistant to and protege of Paul Parquet,  created the classic perfume Quelques Fleurs. Often regarded as the first true multi-floral scent, Quelques Fleurs was the springboard for this type of perfume.

At the 1900 Paris Exhibition, Houbigant introduced a special perfume, Coeur de Jeanette in honour of the exhibition, this scent was created by Paul Parquet. Houbigant participate din all major exhibitions and presentations ranged from luxury to low-priced.

The perfume bottle for the 1903 perfume Les Violettes was designed by the master glassmaker, Emilie Galle.

The 1911 fragrance La Rose France was created by Paul Parquet and named after the variety of rose which enjoyed great popularity during this time.

The Perfumes of Houbigant, starting from the most recent:

  • (1988) Demi-Jour (dana)
  • (1988) Lutece (dana)
  • (1982) Raffinee (dana)
  • (1982) Monsieur Musk  (dana)
  • (1973) Chantilly  (dana)
  • (1941) Quelques Fleurs Royale 
  • (2004) Apercu
  • (2000) Quelques Roses 
  • (1997) Quelques Violettes 
  • (1996) Duc de Vervins 
  • (1991) Sportsman 
  • (1988)  Presence
  • (1984) Les Fleurs 
  • (1980) Ciao 
  • (1980) A Rose Is A Rose Is A Rose  
  • (1975) Ambergris 
  • (1973) Civet
  • (1973) Air Nouveau
  • (1972) Indian Summer  
  • (1957) Halyard
  • (1956) Eden Roe
  • (1955) Thunderbird
  • (1948) Chantilly (original)
  • (1946) Air Nouveau
  • (1945) Sous la Charmille
  • (1945) Anneau D'Or 
  • (1945) Penny Merrill
  • (1945) Perseverance
  • (1945) Faune & Flore
  • (1940) Lilac Time
  • (1940) Transparence, reintroduced in 1945 
  • (1939) Presentation
  • (1938) Magnolia
  • (1938) Honeysuckle
  • (1937) Eau Florale
  • (1937) Versailles
  • (1936) Verte Foret
  • (1936) Dedicace
  • (1936) Incartade
  • (1936) Farandole
  • (1936) Boutade
  • (1936) Town & Country
  • (1936) Country Club
  • (1936) Trouvaille
  • (1935) Chasse-Croise
  • (1935) La Nuit Tombe
  • (1934) A Demi Mot  
  • (1934) Lyrisme
  • (1933) Cle Des Champs 
  • (1933) Diapason
  • (1933) Presence
  • (1932) Abandon 
  • (1932) Desinvolture
  • (1932) Dissonance
  • (1932) Demi-Jour
  • (1932) Autre Chose
  • (1932) Contraste 
  • (1932) Les Heures Choises
  • (1932) Croquis
  • (1932) Allegorie 
  • (1932) Ebats
  • (1932) Enchappee
  • (1932) Dedale
  • (1932) Floraison Houbigant
  • (1931) Entr’Acte
  • (1931) Parenthese
  • (1931) Avante Premiere 
  • (1931) Avante Scene
  • (1931) Episode
  • (1931) Sports D’Ete
  • (1931) Sports D’Hiver
  • (1931) Subterfuge
  • (1931) Prophetie
  • (1931) Cadence  
  • (1931) Resonance
  • (1931) Ritournelle
  • (1931) Interpretation
  • (1931) Jeux D’Orgue
  • (1931) En Sourdine
  • (1931) Consecration
  • (1931) Etude  
  • (1931) Plein Ete
  • (1931) Emaux
  • (1931) Festival
  • (1931) Transition
  • (1931) Dominante
  • (1931) Chiberta
  • (1931) Tous-Deux
  • (1930) Fleur Bienaimee  
  • (1930) Douce Quietude
  • (1930) Deci-Dela
  • (1930) L’ile De Beaute
  • (1929) Au Loin
  • (1929) Un Tour de Jardin
  • (1929) L’aile Du Reve
  • (1929) Intermede
  • (1929) Couleur du Temps
  • (1928) Essence Rare
  • (1928) Raffinements
  • (1928) L’Art de Plaire
  • (1928) Fraicheur
  • (1928) Premier Mai
  • (1928) Un Parfum Precieux
  • (1927) Bois Dormant 
  • (1927) Dilettante
  • (1927) Royal Fern
  • (1927) La Fleur Bien Aimee
  • (1926) Un Coin du Ciel
  • (1926) Heureuse Surprise
  • (1926) La Fleur Noble
  • (1926) Temps Nouveaux
  • (1926) Sur La Terre Endormie
  • (1926) Souverainete
  • (1925) Celle Que Mon Coeur Aime
  • (1925) Curiosite
  • (1925) Princesse de Legende
  • (1925) Grand Air
  • (1925) Au Bois  
  • (1925) Vert Gazon
  • (1924) La Belle Saison 
  • (1923) Flatterie
  • (1923) Subtilite
  • (1923) Au Matin
  • (1923) Moulin Galant
  • (1923) En Butinant
  • (1923) Le Champ Des Oiseaux
  • (1923) Le Temps des Lilas 
  • (1923) Douce Illusion
  • (1923) En Visite
  • (1922) L'Oeillet du Roi 
  • (1922) d’Argent
  • (1922) Royal Bouvardia
  • (1922) Rose Ideale
  • (1921) Mon Boudoir
  • (1920) Un Peu d’Ambre
  • (1920) La Rose de France
  • (1920) Subtilite 
  • (1920) Mes Delices
  • (1919) Un Peau D'Ambre
  • (1919) Mon Boudoir
  • (1918) Parfum d'Argeville 
  • (1918) Note
  • (1918) Jasmin
  • (1915) Evette
  • (1915) Giroflee
  • (1913) Peau d’Espagne
  • (1913) Quelques Fleurs L'Original 
  • (1912) Parfum Inconnu 
  • (1912) Quelques Fleurs
  • (1911) La Rose France
  • (1908) Premier Mai
  • (1906) L’Oeillet Du Roy
  • (1903) Les Violettes
  • (1900) Le Parfum Ideal, reintroduced in 1926
  • (1899) Coeur de Jeanette, reintroduced in 1920 
  • (1899) Eau d’Houbigant (original), reintroduced in 1920
  • (1885) Fougere Royale, reintroduced in 1900, 1920
  • (1882) Eau de Cologne Tres Pure 
  • Anekdote (unknown launch date)

About some other Houbigant perfumes:

Ideal: launched in 1900, was the first composite perfume and a great success for many years. Its creator, Javal, took the idea for the box design from an Oriental carpet he had seen at Deauville.

Quelques Fleurs: created in 1912, was one of the first floral bouquet ever produced. The unique composition, includes lilac, rose, jasmine, violet and orchid.

Etude: presented in 1931, was the classic Thirties perfume The bottle rests on a silver plated base and is encased in a box of varnished wood.

Raffinee: introduced in 1982, it is composed of over two hundred ingredients, combining floral and oriental notes, including jasmine, rose and hyacinth, laced with spices, herbs and incense, The name is intended to evoke a certain refined elegance, as reflected in the packaging of lacquered red and gold.

Ciao: is a rich, floral-chypre fragrance, created around the essence of acanthus, a rare oriental flower, blended with jasmine, hyacinth and cassis, The woody, mossy base note is comprised of oak moss, sandalwood, and patchouli. First presented in 1980

Jean Patou Perfumes

History:

Jean Patou was born in 1887 in the Basque region and died in 1936 at the age of only 49. By the age of 23, he moved to Paris and was already a successful dressmaker and tailor In  1923, he purchased a small shop, Maison Parry and had adopted the Patou name. His popularity grew among a loyal, private clientele and he subsequently founded his fashion and perfume house where he presented his premiere collection in 1919. This proved to be such  a great success that he opened a office in New York to fill the demand for his American clients. He also expanded his business to the Coin des Sports boutique, a shop in Deauville and a summer house of couture in Biarritz..

He was the first to introduce sportswear for women, including tennis skirts, tennis shorts, knitted bathing suits, jersey cardigans and introduced complementary accessories for his clothes, putting his monogram on them where it would be seen. Another first was the first suntan lotion, women of the 1920s started sunbathing to attain the bronzed glow from the sun, and Patou introduced Huile de Chaldee. Huile de Chaldee was named after an ancient city in Babylonia that was legendary for its beautiful, amber skinned beauties.

 Patou was among the first couturiers to include perfumes as part of a collection. He introduced his first three perfumes together in 1925, Amour Amour, Que Sais-Je?, and Adieu Sagesse, created with the help of Paul Poiret's perfumer, Henri Almeras. Patou also installed a cocktail bar for the gentleman  while their ladies were being fitted for their haute couture. In 1930, he created a perfume bar for the amusement of his clients, encouraging them to concoct their own fragrances.

Jean Patou wanted to send a gift of appreciation to his many regular international clients who would be unable to visit Paris in that first year of the Great Depression. He asked Almeras to create something very strong, yet simple, no matter what the cost. This lead to the creation of the costliest perfume in the world, Joy. The predominant ingredients of Bulgarian rose and jasmine-one ounce, it is said requires 10,000 jasmine flowers and 28 dozen roses. The bottle was produced in three different designs. The first one, was designed to classical proportions by Louis Sue, the second was inspired by Jean Patou's own collection of antique Chinese snuff bottles, and the third was a cut crystal flacon produced  by Baccarat.

The Perfumes of Jean Patou:

  • (1994) Voyageur
  • (1992) Sublime  
  • (1987) Ma Liberte
  • (1980) Patou pour Homme
  • (1976)  Eau de Patou
  • (1972) 1000  
  • (1964) Caline  
  • (1961) Makila
  • (1957) Anything Goes
  • (1957) Tout Va
  • (1955) Ole
  • (1954) Ambition
  • (1952) Companion
  • (1950) Snob
  • (1946) L'Heure Attendue  
  • (1938) Colony  
  • (1936) Vacances 
  • (1936) Brandy of Flowers  
  • (1936) Lasso
  • (1935) Toilet Brandy
  • (1935) Vin de Toilet
  • (1935) Normandie 
  • (1934) Holidays  
  • (1933) Divine Folie
  • (1931) L'Amour Est Roi
  • (1931) La Joie de Jeau Patou
  • (1931) Patou's Own
  • (1931) Heureux Amants
  • (1931) Happy Lovers 
  • (1931) Love Appeal
  • (1931) May-Be
  • (1931) For Her....For Him
  • (1930) Angostura
  • (1930) Cocktail Sweet
  • (1930) Cocktail Dry
  • (1930) Cocktail
  • (1930) Bar A Parfums
  • (1930) Lift
  • (1930) Joy  
  • (1929) Aparte
  • (1929) Moment Supreme  
  • (1928) Invitation
  • (1927) Chaldee  
  • (1927) Huile de Chaldee
  • (1925)  Le Sien 
  • (1925) Adieu Sagesse 
  • (1925) Amour Amour 
  • (1925) Que Sais-Je?

AA Vantine's History and Perfumes

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by the Ashley Abraham Vantine Inc.  of West 39th Street New York City, with branches in Boston & Philadelphia.

Vantine's Oriental Store was a well known gift store that specialized in imported wares "from the Empires of Japan, China, India, China, Persia and the East". It was founded in 1869 by AA Vantine in New York City, establishing one of the first stores to import Oriental goods.Most of their incense burners were also imported from France. Vantine's supplied a touch of the exotic to Americans during the craze for all things Oriental.

Some commonly found items from Vantine's are the metal incense burners imported from France, incense tins, fans, postcards, advertisements, mahjonng sets, vases, Japanese dolls,and powder boxes.

The less commonly found items are:

  • the perfumes (some in their original lacquer boxes)
  • bath salts
  • catalogs
  • lamps and lampshades
  • Oriental rugs & carpets
  • soaps
  • paper lanterns
  • porcelain tableware
  • bronze lamps
  • teas, coffees
  • delicacies
  • toys
  • kimonos
  • bronze & porcelain jardinieres
  • porcelain and cloisonne floor vases
  • wall scrolls
  • paper parasols
  • other parasols had ivory, belt buckles, silver & jade handles
  • dinner gongs
  • chimes
  • carved ivories
  • draperies
  • Baghdad cushions
  • rattan furniture
  • Oriental silk fabrics
  • teakwood furniture
  • solid silver tea services
  • large bronzes
  • Japanese & Chinese brocade bags
  • clothing
  • shawls
  • hair ornaments called kanzashi 
  • jewelry.

Original Vantine's labels on these goods are scarce.

The company also provided mail order catalogues so that customers could "rest comfortably at home in your easy chair, and, at your leisure, select by mail, with absolute confidence, from the largest collection of Oriental goods in America".

Vantine's also had a fan catalog featuring over 100 different fan styles made of bamboo, bone, gauze, sandalwood, paper, silk and some with sequin spangled decorations. The 1906 ad stated that fans make souvenirs and gifts for cotillions, bridesmaids, weddings, dinners, and all other occasions.

On a darker note, Vantine's was bought in 1926 by mob gangster Arnold Rothstein who used the store as a front for his business in drug smuggling. Since Vantine's was a legitimate business with an excellent reputation, customs officials gave the shipments only a cursory search. This drug trafficking operation through Vantine's only lasted until 1928, when Rothstein was murdered.

The perfumes and toiletries listed below are ones that I have found in original advertisements, the dates given are from what year I saw them in an ad, they may have been introduced earlier, but I have no exact proof just yet.

The Perfumes of Vantine's:

  • 1898 Corylopsis
  • 1898 Delhi Heliotrope
  • 1898 Japanese Iris
  • 1900 Java Lily
  • 1900 Mary Stuart
  • 1905 Koi Sai
  • 1906 Sandalwood
  • 1908 Geisha Flowers
  • 1908 Hi Yang
  • 1908 Jafleur
  • 1908 Van San
  • 1908 Chypre
  • 1908 Kai Sang
  • 1909 Mekado
  • 1909 Pagoda
  • 1909 Sandalwood
  • 1909 Wisteria
  • 1909 Vinenta
  • 1909 Viorenta
  • 1912 India Pearl Tooth Powder
  • 1912 Winsum Lilac
  • 1912 Geisha Flowers Sachet
  • 1912 Kutch Sandalwood Talcum
  • 1912 Wistaria Sachet
  • 1912 Sandalwood Extract
  • 1912 Lotus Flower Extract
  • 1912 Geisha Flowers Extract
  • 1912 Wistaria Extract
  • 1912 Geisha Face Powder
  • 1912 Sandalwood Sachet
  • 1912 Geisha Disappearing Cream
  • 1912 Sandalwood Soap
  • 1912 Wistaria Toilet Water
  • 1912 Geisha Nail Stone (part of Geisha Manicure Set)
  • 1912 Geisha Nail Bleach (part of Geisha Manicure Set)
  • 1913 Japanese Corylopsis
  • 1913 Flowery Kingdom
  • 1914 Attar of Rose
  • 1915 Nirvana
  • 1915 Orange Blossom
  • 1917 Flowery Kingdom
  • 1917 Geisha
  • 1917 Geisha Flowers
  • 1917 Gul Raesee
  • 1917 Japanese Lily
  • 1917 Kutch Sandalwood
  • 1917 O Lotus San
  • 1917 Wistaria Blossom
  • 1920 Orchid
  • 1920 Oriental Violet
  • 1920 Rose Drops
  • 1920 Singapore Sandalwood
  • 1920 Turkish Rose
  • 1922 Hana Violet
  • 1922 Charmeen
  • 1922 Mimosa
  • 1922 Nile Lily
  • 1922 Sacred Lily
  • 1922 Violet
  • 1922 Mikado
  • 1922 Jafleur Toilet Water
  • 1922 Jafleur Powder
  • 1922 Jafleur Talc
  • 1922 Jafleur Cold Cream
  • 1922 Jafleur Vanishing cream
  • 1922 Lotus Flower
  • 1925 Mekado Bouquet
  • 1925 Sweet Pea
  • 1927 Zanadu
  • 1930 Anna Pavlova
  • 1933 Embassy
  • 1940 Apple Blossom
  • 1940 Lilac
  • 1940 Clover
  • 1940 Escapade

Dana Perfumes

Dana was established in Barcelona in 1921 by Javier Serra (former director of Myrurgia of Spain). The company then  moved to Paris in 1932 at 9 rue de la Paix. The company was named after the Greek goddess Danae and this idea was incoporated into the Dana logo, which consisted of a beautiful woman's head, taken from a sculpture by Mariano Andreu.

Dana perfume took over many other companies such as Corday, Helena Rubinstein, Cover Girl, Shulton, Max Factor, Houbigant and Jaclyn Smith perfumes. Dana bought out the rights to these companies and produced their  perfumes, sometimes reformulating them and keeping the original well known names, you will recognize some of these below.

The perfumes and colognes of Dana:

  • 1921 Toujours Moi
  • 1922 C'Est Fou
  • 1930 Tabu
  • 1932 Bolero
  • 1933 Kali
  • 1933 20 Carats
  • 1933 Resinas
  • 1934 Halago
  • 1934 Hidalgo
  • 1935 Bridal Bouquet
  • 1935 Emir
  • 1935 Verveine
  • 1935 Canoe
  • 1939 Aloha
  • 1939 Totem
  • 1940 Platine
  • 1940 Yoga
  • 1941 Lenia
  • 1941 Chantilly
  • 1941 Heaven Sent (original)
  • 1944 Sirocco Donna
  • 1944 Rocio
  • 1945 Danalak
  • 1946 Analergic
  • 1946 Canoe
  • 1946 Superstition
  • 1946 Intervalle
  • 1946 Sillage
  • 1946 Utopie
  • 1946 Vendetta
  • 1946 Priority
  • 1947 "100%"
  • 1947 Presage
  • 1948 Sabotage
  • 1948 Perfido
  • 1948 Tundra
  • 1949 Bois de Boulogne
  • 1949 English Leather
  • 1949 Zigzag
  • 1950 Imposible
  • 1950 Claude Fontaine
  • 1950 Tundra
  • 1950 Sympatia
  • 1950 Cuir de Canada
  • 1951 Danamask
  • 1951 voodoo
  • 1952 Kali
  • 1952 Marquisette
  • 1953 Platinum
  • 1954 Pink Blue Pink
  • 1955 Ambush
  • 1955 White Chantilly
  • 1958 Danita
  • 1960 Bon Voyage
  • 1961 Impulse
  • 1965 British Sterling
  • 1966 English Leather Lime
  • 1968 Pullman
  • 1968 Timberline
  • 1970 Wind Drift
  • 1971 Gentry
  • 1972 English Leather Musk
  • 1972 Musk Oil
  • 1973 Monsieur Musk
  • 1975 Mar Mara
  • 1978 Herbissimo Cedro
  • 1978 Herbissimo Enebro
  • 1978 Herbissimo Mejorana
  • 1978 Racquet Club
  • 1980 Herbissimo Juniper
  • 1980 Herbissimo Marjoram
  • 1981 Cambridge
  • 1982 Celisse
  • 1982 Raffinee
  • 1983 Le Jardin d'Amour (Max Factor)
  • 1984 Lutece
  • 1984 Squash
  • 1985 Chispas
  • 1985 Christian Aujard for Women
  • 1985 Members Only
  • 1986 Insignia
  • 1988 Demi-Jour
  • 1989 Ambush Tender Musk
  • 1989 California
  • 1989 Forbidden
  • 1989 Silver
  • 1989 Wild Baby Blue Eyes
  • 1989 Wild Fire Pink
  • 1989 Wild Passion Flower
  • 1989 Wild Tiger Lily
  • 1990 California for Men
  • 1990 Fathom
  • 1990 Navy
  • 1992 Incognito
  • 1993 Canoe Sport
  • 1994 French Vanilla
  • 1994 Insignia Rio
  • 1995 Classic Gardenia
  • 1995 Insignia Nature
  • 1995 White Chantilly
  • 1996 Dreams
  • 1996 Golf Sport
  • 1996 Herbissimo Te Verde
  • 1996 Navigator
  • 1996 Navy for Men
  • 1997 Ambush (new)
  • 1997 Fetish
  • 1997 Canoe Royale
  • 1998 Shades by Navy

Obscure Perfume Companies

In this guide I have listed several different obscure or little known early French perfume companies and the vintage  perfumes they produced. I have also included some Spanish, German and Italian companies. Many of these companies were shortlived or only created one perfume. Some companies will be found here as there isn't enough info to warrant their own guide. Information is very scant on these companies. Any extraneous information will be appreciated and will be added.

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Erizma, established in 1885 by J. Bijon and created rare luxury presentations. They also were exporters to the far East:

  • 1890 Christiane
  • 1900 Fleur d’avril
  • 1900 Savon a la Heliotrope
  • 1900 Savon aux Violettes
  • 1900 Savon Fleurs d’avril
  • 1900 savon extra fin
  • 1910 Djita
  • Aube Naissante

Guyla, established in 1926 at 40 rue de Paris, Epinay-sur-Seine, they made exceptional rare presentations:

  • 1926 Caresse Parisienne
  • 1926 Divin Narcisse

Oviatt, department store in Los Angeles, California. the Oviatt Building was completed in 1927, and had Lalique glass panels. Lalique also created their bell shaped perfume bottle:

  • 1928 Le Parfum des Anges

Felix Boissard, a British-French company, established around 1900 by John-Ernest Jewel, (a probable predecessor in France was Pennes Fils et Broissard). Affiliated to and represented by Heppels Ltd :

  • 1913 Silva
  • 1919 Madelon

Nice-Flore, established in 1919 at 54 route  du Var, Nice, France, by Union Francaise de Parfumerie et de Maroquinerie, they sold leather goods and perfumes, some presentations used bottles by Maurice Depinoix:

  • 1919 Brin de Reve
  • 1919 Chypre
  • 1923 Divine Chanson
  • 1923 Tout l'Azur
  • 1924 Jasmin
  • 1925 Ambre

Pierre Dune, established in 1939 at 49 rue de Prony, Paris by Edmond Rosens, the first five perfumes were presented  as potted plants in a flower cart:

  • 1939 Evocation de Rose
  • 1940 Sequoia
  •  Armorial (launch date unknown)
  • Infini (launch date unknown)
  • Vous Seule (launch date unknown)
  • 1945 Pres du Coeur
  • 1947 Privilege
  • 1947 Clef du Paradis

Maurice Bertrand Carrere of Paris France,established in 1945 at 45 rue Pierre-Charron, Paris, very shortlived company:

  • 1945 Signature
  • 1945 Vent Fou

Les Parfums de Mistinguett:

  • 1921 La Rose de Mistinguett
  • 1924 Gri Gri d'Amour

Monna Vanna, established in 1920 in Britain, then moved to at 120-122 rue Borghese, Neuilly (Seine) France. The name was adopted from the title of the play by Maeterlinck.  They produced luxurious presentations. :

  • 1914 Mademoiselle
  • 1919 Lilas D'Or
  • 1919 L'Oiseau Bleue
  • 1919 Magnatic
  • 1919 Pavlova

A. Bertelli (of  26 via Paolo Frisi, Milan Italy), produced pharmaceuticals. Their luxurious presentations were produced in France:

  • 1900 Gran Parfum
  • 1908 Venus
  • 1912 Acacia
  • 1919 Antigringina
  • 1920 Fiori di Campo
  • 1922 Rose Bertelli
  • 1925 Ars
  • 1925 A Toi

Mori of Paris France:

  • 1924 Gardenia
  • 1932 Reve d'Amour

Ramey, established in 1913 at 332 rue Saint-Honore, Paris by Georges Herman as Laboratoires des Produits Radiaces:

  • 1927 Nuit de Stamboul
  • 1920s Minuit

De Luzy, established in 1917 at 5 rue Ybry, Neuilly (Seine), by Progalia SA :

  • 1919 Le Chypre de Luzy
  • 1919 Pourpre Antique or Poyrpre Antique
  • 1920 Le Feu
  • 1925 Frais Jardin

Biette, established in 1892 by Alexis Biette. They had branches in major cites in Europe, Africa and the USA. The produced spectacular soap sets, often humorous. They started introducing superb perfume presentations in the 1920s:

  • 1923 Teindefleur
  • 1926 Pour Ma Mie
  • 1926 Bel Ete
  • 1927 Naciris

Fracy of Paris France, established in 1922. They produced novelty perfumes as well as luxurious Viard presentations:

  • 1922 Silhouette
  • 1922 Fracy
  • 1922 Silvette
  • 1924 Charmeuse
  • 1924 Jasmin Passionata
  • 1924 Rose Jolie
  • 1925 Apine Patine
  • 1930 Bagatelle

Pelissier-Aragon,Les Fontaines Parfums Grasse. Established by E. Alziary, became Alziary Fils in 1850, became Alziary et Barbe in 1863 and then Pelissier-Aragon in 1887 until 1924 when Emile-Andre Pelissier coined the appealing trade name "Les Fontaines Parfumees Grasse":

  • 1918 Bouquet de Chypre
  • 1930 Origan

Lydes of 29 rue Auguste Bailly, Courbevoie (Seine) France, established in 1918 by Eugene Philippe Rodier. Their most successful perfume was their first, Ambre des Pagodes, which interestingly did not bear the name Lydes. The company became well known practically overnight and exported their luxurious presentations worldwide:

  • 1919 L'Ambre des Pagodes
  • 1922 Narcisse
  • 1923 Les Jasmins de Lydes
  • 1925 Diamant Noir
  • 1925 L'Heure du Baiser
  • 1927 Bibelot
  • 1928 Dans la Chevelure
  • 1928 La Fleur du Lac
  • 1920s Arabian Passion

Ysiane of  38 rue d'Enghien,Paris France. Established around 1925 and although the company was shortlived, they managed to produce some charming presentations. They were affiliated to La Diaphane:

  • 1925 Saturnale
  • 1926 le collier de perles

Delyna of 21 rue de la Breche-aux-Loups,Paris France. Established in 1925 by Maxime Patraud. acquired in 1945 by Cuban perfumer Bienvenido Fernandez:

  • 1927 Sensation
  • 1927 Nuit Romantique

Jacques Heim. Couture house  of Isidore & Jeanne Heim established a fur business in 1898, their son Jacques introduce day and evening wear in the 1920s and  sold perfumes to their clients in 1930 and introduced them to the public around 1945:

  • 1935 Alambic
  • 1945 J'aime
  • 1953 Ariane

Paquin of Paris France, couture house of Jeanne Paquin, introduced perfumes and cosmetics in 1939 and the house closed in 1962:

  • 1939 9 X 9
  • 1939 Habit Rouge
  • 1939 Ever After
  • 1945 Espoir
  • 1949 No. 9

Fragonard of Paris France, established in 1782 and known then as P. Mottet et Cie and Cresp. Martinenq. The company went bankrupt in 1914 and was acquired by Eugene Fuchs, who introduced interesting presentations in the 1920s an dinto the 1940s:

  • 1921 Chale Indien
  • 1929 Xmas'E
  • 1933 Belle de Nuit
  • 1935 Evernia
  • 1935 Pur Hasard
  • 1935 Zizanie
  • 1942 Lancry
  • 1946 Source Bleue
  • 1947 Moment Vole

Rochambeau of New York City & Paris, a Franco-American company established in 1923 by Xavier Rochambeau and Robert Coudert de Saint-Chament. They specialized in French made medium and low priced novelty perfumes, very small and toy like, thin, blown glass bottles for export to the USA.  Some of their perfume bottles are tiny glass balls in the shape of grape bunches or little square dice. They were affiliated to La Gourde du Poete, whose style is similar:

  • 1923 Clochettes Parfumees
  • 1925 La Pipe Alsacienne
  • 1925 Jasmine
  • 1920s Fleurs Modernes
  • 1920s Gourde de Poete
  • 1920s Mon Ideal
  • 1920s Mimosa
  • 1920s Jasmine

Lerys of Paris France, established in 1921 by Leon Bellon, produced luxurious presentations:

  • 1922 Belle Jolie
  • 1924 Or Brunie
  • 1926 Le Presentoir
  • 1926 Happy Days
  • 1927 Chypre
  • 1927 Pour Blonde
  • 1927 Pour Brune
  • 1928 Lucidite

Doeuillet-Doucet of Paris France, couture house formed y merger of Doeillet and Doucet in 1929 and the company closed in 1932:

  • 1929 Mareva

Jaspy of Paris, established around 1919 and subtitled "Parfums Modernes et Originaux" :

  • 1921 Buisson Fleuri
  • 1921 Kadoura
  • 1921 Muscadin
  • 1921 Myrodata
  • 1921 Rose de Chemin
  • 1922 Le P'tit Chose
  • 1924 Jasmin
  • 1924 Latulipe Noire

Murcy:

  • 1920 Un Chypre Inconnu
  • 1920 Un Muguet des Bois

Sari:

  • 1923 Eros
  • 1926 Lune de Miel

Charles Fay, established in 1850 by Charles Fay and called Maison Fay. They were best known for their powder Veloutine, and therefore changed their name to Parfumere Veloutine. They won a gold medal at the 1900 Exposition:

  • 1920 Parfum Les Trois Muses, La Danse
  • 1936 Absolute Essense of Gardenia

Marques de Elorza of Paris France,was established by Avran Moscovici, a perfumer; at 73 avenue des Champs-Elysées, Paris in 1926. They produced interesting and luxurious presentations in the 1920s, then after 1930, perfumes of lesser quality were produced. The company was also affiliated with Chenier and Parfums de Paul.

  • 1920 Argentina
  • 1928 Cantique des Cantiques
  • 1929 Bleu Blanc
  • 1929 Legion d'Honneur
  • 1929 Maitresse
  • 1929 Marche Nuptiale
  • 1929 Valencia
  • 1951 Aperitiff
  • 1951 Spring Madness
  • 1951 Taj Mahal
  • 1951 White Enchantment
  • 1955 Ming Jade

Parfums Loulette:

  • 1925 Mimosa
  • 1919 Femme Divine

Bryenne of Paris France, established in 1911 by Jacques Brach:

  • 1911 Heure Exquise
  • 1918 Chu Chin Chow
  • 1920 Le Lilas
  • 1927 Mabrouka
  • 1927 Sentimental
  • 1927 Ambre Persian
  • 1929 Brenny

Dorin, established in 1780 as a small cosmetics shop specializing in theatrical makeup, by famous actress Mademoiselle Montansier. Company was bought and sold several times and fell into the hands of JM Dorin in 1817. They exported world wide and won the gold medal in 1900:

  • 1870 Poudre Grasse (face powder)
  • 1910 Cloches de Mai

Gal of Madrid Spain, established in 1900 and produced many luxury presentations and cosmetics:

  • 1912 Heno de Pravia
  • 1913 Dens
  • 1917 Flores de Talavera
  • 1917 Agua de Colonia Aneja
  • 1920 Imperial Toledo
  • 1923 Jardines de Espana
  • 1924 Alma
  • 1924 Pravia Hay
  • 1924 Talavera Flowers
  • 1925 Aromas del Pais
  • 1930 Granada Mia
  • 1948 Marisol

Moiret of Paris, made perfumes during the 1920s:

  • 1925 Beaucaire
  • 1920s Circe
  • Le Prestige

JG Mouson & Co (of Frankfurt Germany):

  • 1798 Mouson ,reintroduced in 1954
  • 1921 Tai-Tai
  • 1925 Antiqua
  • 1930 Maronquin
  • 1935 Mit der Postkusche
  • 1940 A Tout

Claire of Paris France, elegant Paris shop specializing in luxury fashions and perfumes, established in 1924 by Rodney Wanamaker (a mamber of the founding family of John Wanamaker, department stores in the USA):

  • 1923 Le Beau Narcisse
  • 1927 Memorie
  • 1928 Fascination
  • 1929 Numero II
  • 1932 Oree

Mme A. Girard et Cie of London, small prestigious company established in the late 19th century:

  • 1890 Violette de Parme
  • 1900 Trefle
  • 1914 Mandragore

Jean Giraud Fils, established in 1853 as Giraud Freres, later known as J. Giraud Fils, acquired by various essential oils producers in Grasse, such as Honore-Joseph Sozio in 1900. They had large exports to South America:

  • 1922 Bouquet Royale
  • 1922 Dans la Nues
  • 1922 Fleur de Jasmin
  • 1922 Fleur de Rose
  • 1922 Japtis
  • 1922 Parfum Reve
  • 1922 Lysmina
  • 1922 Mariana
  • 1922 Odorantis
  • 1922 Mysteriose
  • 1922 L'Oeillet
  • 1923 Maflor
  • 1927 Odorantis

Nissery of Asnieres, (Seine) France, established in 1921 by Jules-Joanin-Anatole Muraour. The company was affiliated to Mury. They produced elegant presentations:

  • 1922 Le Cyclamen
  • 1925 Coeurs et Fleurs

Agnel of Paris France:

  • 1910 Mon Deux Pays
  • 1913 Dolly
  • 1920 Fete de Nuit
  • 1923 Myrianthis

Louis Avenel of Paris, established in 1900 and had major exports to Great Britain. Some of their presentations featured Viard bottles:

  • 1913 Thais
  • 1913 Gaby
  • 1920 que veux-tu?

Lioret:

  • 1928 Chypre
  • 1928 Muguet
  • 1928 Narcisse

Rodin of Paris, established in 1946 by Norman SARL:

  • 1946 Saree, (also sold as Saree by Norman)

A. Euziere of Grasse, France, established in 1887 as Societe Euziere et Seytre. Became Henri Euziere et Cie in 1920, created some suberb presentations featuring Viard bottles:

  • 1911 Violette
  • 1924 Source Bleu
  • 1925 Atakor

Griet (of Buenos Aires,Argentina):

  • 1925 Locion Mirka
  • 1932 Chela
  • 1940 Nantes 18

Clamy of Paris France, established in 1913 by Philippe de Back as Les Parfums de Clamy, The presentations featured luxurious Gaillard bottles. The company was acquired by Grenoville in 1943.

  • 1913 Bleuet
  • 1913 Qui M'Aime?
  • 1927 Femme Ailees
  • 1928 Aire de Ailes
  • 1928 À Tire d ’Ailes
  • Audé Diapée

Coudray of Paris France, established in 1810 as a small cosmetics and perfume shop called Maugenet & Coudray. They became a major exporter during the 19th century and remained a family business until 1908 when Edouard Colmant acquired an interest. The company produced many luxury presentations:

  • 1919 Je Vous L'Offre
  • 1919 Le Trio
  • 1929 Reve de Paris
  • 1930 Charme de France
  • 1930 Onyx Noir

Maudy of Colombes (Seine) France, established in 1928 by Adrienne Foym affiliated to de Musset and produced luxury presentations:

  • 1927 Chere Petite Chose
  • 1928 Muguet

Drecoll, courture house in Paris,introduced perfumes in 1927 , then from 1929, sold perfumes under the Maggy Rouff name. Marcel Guerlain purchased Drecoll in 1944:

  • 1925 Tais-toi-mon Coeur

Plassard of Paris France, established in 1815 as Demarson, later Demarson et Cie. Demarson-Chetelat and Chetalat et Cie. The company exhibited regularly in 1819, 1839, 1844, 1849, 1855, 1867, and 1878, under the various names over the years. they were awarded many prizes at the exhibitions. Louis Plassad purchased the company in 1894 and renamed it L. Plassard. their most impressive presentations were before 1930, after 1930, their quality lessened:

  • 1911 Une Femme Passa
  • 1927 De Fleur En Fleur
  • 1928 Dyne
  • Avrilleé
  • Bagatelle

Marquis of Paris, active during the 1920s and produced toiletries, perfumes and cosmetics, as well as producing such items for other perfumers and under their own name, primarily for export:

  • 1920 Chypre
  • 1923 Niradjah

Saint Cyr of Paris France:

  • 1926 Homme de Paris
  • 1926 Love in Paris
  • 1926 Toujours Ou Amais
  • 1936 Fleches d'amour

Altair:

  • 1948 L'ete
  • 1948 L'automne

Cadolle Freres of Paris France, established in 1889 as a corset shop in Buenos aires by Herminie Cadolle, opened Paris shop in 1910 as a family busines with fashionable clientele.Their perfumes were introduced in 1926:

  • 1926 Amour en Cage
  • 1926 Apres le Tennis
  • 1927 Le Bois Sauvage
  • 1927 Le No. 9
  • 1927 Reve d'Infante
  • 1929 Magicia
  • 1930 Bien Etre

Maggy Rouff, couture house established in 19th century, perfumes were introduced in 1927 and baccarat was a supplier of bottles. The company merged with Drecoll in 1929, the company was renamed Maggy Rouff in 1930  and Rouff perfumes were available until the 1940s:

  • 1949 Contact

Bruyere of Paris, couture house established in 1924 by Marie-Louise Bruyere and introduced perfumes around 1940:

  • 1941 Caractere

Miro Dena, established  around 1900 by Mirona B and Frederick Hubbard in Syracuse, New York. They later opened a store at 373 Fifth Avenue ,New York. They were very successful in the 1920s and produced French luxury presentations. The company was bought by Lancelle around 1930.

  • 1913 Chois de Coeur
  • 1913 Le Choix de Coeur
  • 1922 Chantecler
  • 1922 Clinesca
  • 1922 Eleasia
  • 1922 Fleur Charmante
  • 1922 Heliotope Bleu
  • 1922 Jasmin de Paris
  • 1922 L'envie
  • 1922 Lilas de Paris
  • 1922 Muguet de Champs
  • 1922 Rareness
  • 1922 Regent Violette
  • 1922 Rose d'Amour
  • 1922 Soiree Enchantee
  • 1922 Violerre Delicieuse
  • 1923 Clematite
  • Miro Homme
  • Parfums de Miro-Dena
  • Rose Nouvelle
  • The perfume Clematite was presented in a flacon by Baccarat, design # 266.
  • The perfume Parfums de Miro Dena was presented in a flacon by Lalique.
  • The perfume L'Envie was presented in a flacon by Baccarat, design #252.
  • The perfume Le Choix de Coeur was presented in a Baccarat flacon, design # 253.

Mumtaz, was the marketing division of  the India Importing Co, and  launched fragrances in the 1930's. Most of the perfumes are in the solid form and iwll bein celluloid or bakelite containers, much akin to those manufactured for Molinard's Concreta. The Mumtaz ones are different from Molinard because they are small round disk shaped containers. The originally Arabic (masculine) adjective, Mumtaz, means distinguished or excellent. Arabs do not use it as a common name. The term was later adopted by Urdu, Persian and Turkish.

  • 1933 Devine Perfume
  • 1935 Nite in India/Night in India
  • 1935 Rose of Kaskmir
  • 1935 Benares Sweet Pea
  • 1935 Exciting
  • 1935 Attar of Rose
  • 1935 Lotus
  • 1935 Orange Blossom
  • 1935 Vanilla
  • 1935 Violet
  • 1935 Amber of India
  • 1935 Lily of the Valley
  • 1935 Attar of Mumtaz
  • 1935 Blue Zircoon
  • 1935 Himalayan Musk
  • 1935 Persian Jasmin
  • 1935 Sandalwood

     L'Institut de Beaute, of 26 place Vendome, Paris. A beauty salon established in 1895 by Victor Francois Merle with Elise-Marie Valentin Le Brun. The salon sold cosmetics, toiletries and some of the finest limited edition perfume presentations, most likely only available at the Paris salon. The salon later moved to 222 rue de Rivoli, Paris. They sold products to the USA under the name Klytia, as this was an affiliated company established in 1895 by Merle.

    • 1895 Bouquet de l'Empire
    • 1907 Klytia
    • 1920 Elyane
    • 1925 aube
    • 1925 Exquis Printemps
    • Amor Antiguo
    • Bonheur du Jour
    • Bouquet de Mai
    • Bouquet du Roy
    • Cleo
    • Corté Impériale de Russia
    • Deliria de Calvi
    • El Jazmin
    • El Radinu
    • El Secret de Astarte
    • Elika
    • Jardin de Mohana
    • jasmin
    • Le Porte-Bonheur
    • Le Prefere de Rejane
    • Le Vertige de Simone
    • Les Fiancailles
    • Mon Bonheur
    • Mond fetiche
    • Mon Fol Amor
    • Monchoir de Khedive
    • Perfume de Madame Recamier
    • Perfume Eulalia
    • Perfume Klytia
    • Perfume Principe Jaime
    • Rêve de Quatre Cœurs
    • Rose de 4 Cœurs
    • Souverain Perfume
    • Tamara
    • Violette de Montagnes

    Coudray of Paris France, originally established in 1810 by M. Maugenet and Dr. Edmond Coudray. They later opened  a small cosmetics and perfume shop called Maugenet & Coudray located at 348 rue  Saint-Honore, Paris in 1882. They became a major exporter during the 19th century and remained a family business until 1908 when Edouard Colmant acquired an interest. The company produced many luxury presentations:

    • 1860 Chèvrefeuille
    • 1893 Jockey Club
    • 1893 White Rose
    • 1910 Heliotrope
    • 1910 Sentozia
    • 1912 Oeillet Van Dyck
    • 1912 Pour Elle
    • 1912 Impériale Ambrée eau de Cologne
    • 1912 Rosee Sovrana
    • 1913 Sovrana
    • 1913 Violette de Parme
    • 1913 Tyldis
    • 1919 Je Vous L'Offre
    • 1919 Le Trio
    • 1920 Charme de France
    • 1920 L'Ambre
    • 1920 Rêve de Paris
    • 1922 Nohiba/Tulipe Noir
    • 1924 Glaive d'amour
    • 1924 Vetiver
    • 1924 Cuir de Russe
    • 1924 Provence Fleurie
    • 1924 Zorella
    • 1925 Secret de Madame
    • 1930 Onyx Noir
    • 1930 Violettes des Nice
    • 1935 Vanille Cannelle
    • 1946 Camelia Iris (Bleu)
    • 1950 Givrine
    • 1983 Jacinthe Rose
    • 1983 Vanille
    • 1989 Vanille Coco
    • 1995 Miel Orange
    • 1998 Fetiche
    • 2002 Muse et Freesia
    • Acqua Divina
    • Carquois
    • Chypre
    • Eau de Senteur
    • Edelweiss
    • Extract au Muguet
    • Mimosa
    • Reve de Reine
    • Valamine

    The perfumes of Blondeau et Cie. This British-French company was established in around 1888 at Lever House, Victoria Embankment, Blackfriars, London. Though they were primarily a soap manufacturing company, they produced some beautiful perfume presentations up until 1930. They were also the proprietors of  the Vinolia Company Ltd,  manufacturers of ‘Vinolia preparations’; their agents were Robert & Co of 76, New Bond Street, London and also at 5 Rue de la Paix, Paris. The Vinolia Company Ltd was established sometime in 1898  at 37-38 Upper Thames Street, London and produced mainly soaps with a limited production of luxury perfume presentations starting in 1892. They later closed their London showrooms in 1939, but continued production under the Lever Brothers name until early 1960’s.

    • 1889 Vinolia
    • 1890 Violette de Parme
    • 1892 Jequilla
    • 1892 Vinolia Bouquet
    • 1892 Luxuria
    • 1892 Marequil
    • 1893 Eau De Cologne
    • 1893 Millefleur
    • 1895 One Drop Perfumes
    • 1895 Jasmin
    • 1897 Mignonette
    • 1898 Heliotrope
    • 1898 Lily of the Valley
    • 1899 Losaria
    • 1921 Mystic Charm

    The perfumes of Vinolia:

    • 1892 Jequilla
    • 1892 Liril Violets
    • 1892 Marequil
    • 1892 Vinolia Bouquet
    • 1893 Luxuria
    • 1893 Millefleur
    • 1895 Lavender Water
    • 1897 Mignonette
    • 1898 White Rose
    • 1899 White Vinolia
    • 1899 Quadruple extract Carnation
    • 1899 Quadruple extract White Lilac
    • 1899 Quadruple extract Jockey Club
    • 1899 Quadruple extract Mylissa
    • 1899 Quarduple extract Opoponax
    • 1899 Quadruple extract Violette de Parme
    • 1899 Quarduple extract White Heliotrope
    • 1900 Sourire d'Ete
    • 1900 White Seringen
    • 1900 Wood Violets
    • 1903 Quarduple extract Waneeta
    • 1905 New Mown Hay
    • 1910 Mon Caprice
    • 1910 Peau d'Espagne
    • 1911 Royal Rose
    • 1911 Royal Vinolia
    • 1911 Red Rose
    • 1911 Tulipe d'Or
    • 1913 Red Clover
    • 1914 Sweet Scented Daphne
    • 1919 Aralys
    • 1920 Alaba
    • 1920 English Rose
    • 1920 Golden Tulip
    • 1920 Osiris
    • 1920 Violet
    • 1920 Quadruple extract Wallflower
    • 1924 Floral Toilet Waters
    • 1925 Old English Lavender
    • 1927 Aralys Chypre
    • 1927 Eau de Cologne
    • 1930 Dylissia
    • Mitcham Lavender
    • Quadruple extract Musk
    • Quadruple extract Mylissia
    • Quadruple extract Reine Violets
    • Triple Eau de Cologne
    • Quadruple extract Wood Violet
    • Blue Rose
    • Quadruple extract Lily of the Valley
    • Quadruple Marechal Niel
    • Perfection
    • Tres Chic
    • Violets de parme
    • Witte Seringen

    Parfumerie de Burmann, was established in 1934 at a shop on the Champs-Elysees in France, and later at 4 rue de la Verrerie, Paris. The company name was derived from those of the joint founders, Stephane Burdin and Andre Baumann. The company produced modest presentations using opaque glass bottles from the Cristalleries de Nancy.  Their most important perfume bottle was for the scent La Sirene, from 1935, presented in a bottle designed in 1912 by Rene Lalique. The perfume bottle for Le Rayon d'Or of 1929 was presented in a flacon by the Cristalleries de Baccarat, bottle design # 681.

    • 1929 Le Rayon d'Or
    • 1935 La Sirene
    • Chypre
    • Le Parfums de Burmann
    • Fleurs de Tabac
    • Un Conte
    • Oeillet

    Ganna Walska Perfumes, Inc. of Paris & New York.The company was established in 1927 by Ganna Walska (born Hanna Puacz), an untalented soprano opera singer originally from Poland, at 2 rue de la Paix, Paris and then opened a branch in Manhattan in 1928, to be a sister store to the one in Paris, where she obtained small orders from department stores.The shortlived company introduced its first perfume, Divorcons (Let's Divorce). Though she married six times, the singer was notorious for a highly publicized acrimonious divorce in 1920 from Alexander Smith Cochran, a multimillionaire and carpet tycoon.

    • 1925 Près de Toi
    • 1926 Chypre
    • 1927 Divorcons
    • 1928 Blue Ribbon
    • 1930 Niparys
    • 1935 Gardenia
    • 1935 Pois de Senteur
    • 1935 Pour le Sport

    Fontanis of Paris & Neuilly France, established in 1919 by Daniel Jacquet, also the founder of Madhva in 1923. Fontanis produced luxurious presentations and won a gold medal at the 1925 Paris Exposition. the Fontanis vignette was designed by Heymann and reproduced on labels and metal plaques:

    • 1919 Sous la Charmille
    • 1920 Vivette
    • 1921 Fleurs de Bagdad
    • 1922 Daisette
    • 1923 C'est Paris
    • 1924 Rahna
    • 1924 Tamya
    • 1924 Tawao
    • 1924 Ananya
    • 1924 Quel Delice
    • 1924 Damoya
    • 1926 Sourire de France
    • 1928 Prelude
    • 1946 Blue Isle

    Madhva, established in 1923 by Daniel Jacquet,also the founder of Fontanis in 1919:

    • 1923 Damoya or Damaya
    • 1923 Ta Wao
    • 1924 Ananya Goddess of Love

    Benoit, established in 1926 by Marco Barouh, of Barouh & Hermanos located at 10 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, Paris in 1926; in association with Garcia Anastasios Somoza established at 77 A Prado St Havana, Cuba; launched a range of fragrances between 1926 and 1942. Affiliated with Brecher.

    • 1925 Merry Christmas
    • 1926 Orage d'Amour
    • Un Soir de Folie (unknown launch date)
    • Chamelle (unknown launch date)
    • 1926 Lune de Miel
    • 1928 Nuit de Paques (Easter Evening)
    • 1929 Jardin du Mysterre
    • 1930 Une Corbeille de Fleurs
    • 1935 Ange de Jericho
    • 1935 Ange de Gloria
    • 1940 My Kiss
    • 1942 Clair de Lune
    • 1942 Maderas de Tropico
    • 1942 Muguet de Mai
    • 1942 Aromas de Oriente
    • 1942 Clavel Rojo
    • 1942 Nuit de Paris
    • 1942 Aromas de Oriente

     Brecher Perfumery was established by Paul Brecher in Pontoise at Paris around 1910. The company was then taken over by a new owner, Jacques Ernest Mazurier in 1918,moved the company to 10 boulevard Bonne Nouvelle, Paris. The company was affiliated with both perfume companies of Benoit and Marquis de Elorza. Brecher's Perfumes were labelled ‘Aux Perfumeries Reunies’.

    • 1924 Souse de Charmille
    • 1925 Oeillet
    • 1925 Chypre
    • 1925 Doux Reve
    • 1925 Le Temp des Fleurs
    • 1925 Vrai narcisse
    • 1925 Les Fleurettes
    • 1925 Mes Fleurettes
    • 1925 Muguet
    • 1925 Tabac Jaune
    • 1927 Bonjour Paris
    • Amour de Folie
    • Jasmine
    • Lilas
    • Lolita
    • Violette
    • En Promenade

    Andre Chenier was a Franco-American perfumer based in New York during the 1920s-30s; they were affiliated with Marquis de Elorza; and launched own range of fragrances as well a supplying B. Altman department stores.

    • 1931 Lysystra
    • 1931 Andaluza

    Parfums de Paul was established by D.P. Paul in  366 Fifth Avenue New York and Paris and active between the two World Wars producing novelties and luxury presentations; they were affiliated to Marquis de Elorza.

    • 1926 Nuit de Mariage
  • Nogara of Grasse France,established in 1902 by Louis-Francois Pelissier. Around 1910,a major branch opened in Paris. They were affiliated to Pellisier-Aragon. They created beautiful presentations using bottles by Maurice Depinoix:

    • 1920 Bouquet des Amoreux

    Lanselle of Paris France, established in 1930 by Rene Lanselle and Francois de Perthuis. Interestingly, the names of their first perfumes used card game terminology such as Banco:

    • 1932 Sans Atout
    • 1932 Trefle
    • 1932 Carreau 
    • 1932 Pique
    • 1932 Coeur
    • 1932 Banco
    • 1939 Coucou
    • 1941 Forcing
    • 1941 Martingale
    • Valenciennes (launch date unknown)

    Jean de Parys of Paris France, established in 1914 by Jean Cousin in Nanterre (Seine) and produced luxury presentations. Bottles were designed by Andre Jollivet and some produced by Lalique:

    • 1922 Rosee d'Ete
    • 1925 Sous le Gui
    • 1926 Premier Desir

    Erasmic & Co of London. Erasmic was a successful soap name introduced by J, Crosfield & Sons in 1889. A seperate company was created for  perfumes and named Erasmic and a wide range of products. Lalique designed the bottle for De Lui. The business was later acquired by Lever Brothers:

    • 1889 Parfum of Mecca
    • 1889 Countess
    • 1889 Duchess
    • 1889 La Belle
    • 1900 Reve Inconnu
    • 1905 Bal Masque
    • 1910 Elite
    • 1912 La Reine d'Egypte
    • 1920 Aux Fleurs
    • 1920 Billet Doux
    • 1920 Bois de Santal
    • 1920 Brise du Midi 
    • 1920 Eau de Cologne
    • 1920 Himalaya Bouquet
    • 1920 Melba
    • 1920 Mellea
    • 1920 Amis des Fleurs
    • 1920 Bay Rhum
    • 1920 Carnation
    • 1920 Cio San
    • 1920 Coquette
    • 1920 de la Reine
    • 1920 Douce Amitie
    • 1920 Eau de Cologne Russe
    • 1920 Essence Bouquet
    • 1920 Extasia
    • 1920 Fantasma
    • 1920 Fleurs de Nil
    • 1920 Fougere
    • 1920 Aux Fleurs "A" Quality
    • 1923 Royal Acacia
    • 1925 De Lui

    Zofaly of Paris France, established in 1930 by Jeanne Crespin in Montargis (Lioret):

    • 1946 Retour Charmant
    • 1946 Jeux D'Amour
    • 1946 Passion de Zofaly

    Lorenzy Palanca. This company was established during the 19th century by Jules Lorenzy at 61 boulevard des dames, Marseilles, France. Although the business primarily sold soaps, around the turn of the century, they also sold perfumes, razors, toiletries and cosmetics with beautiful paper graphics and stunning label designs. The business was successful enough to open major branches in Algiers, Oran, Nice and Toulon, but went bankrupt in 1930. The name Lorenzy-Palanca was subsequently used by a new company, Societe Anonyme Andre Lorenzy.I have listed all the various perfume/soap names I could find from this company, and I know there are more out there, if I missed one, please let me know. These are few and far between. Though it is possible to find old soap labels on the internet, and repros. Remember, when finding labels, the scent names for soaps are always preceded with Savon, the French word for soap.

    • 1900 Al'Origan
    • 1900 Parfum Nouveau
    • 1900 Nuit d'Arlequin Parfum
    • 1900 Orisia Eau de Cologne
    • 1900 Lotion Vegetale aux Fleurs
    • 1900 Reine Marphis
    • 1900 Au Lilas
    • 1900 Violette Extrait
    • 1900 Franfreluches
    • 1900 Eau de Cologne
    • 1900 Rose Verite
    • 1900 Scintillante
    • 1900 Souani
    • 1905 Cri du Coeur
    • 1910 Aux Fleurs
    • 1910 Aux Fleurs-Exrait Concentree
    • 1920 Arzila
    • 1920s Nymphea
    • 1920s Soyons Discrets
    • 1929 Frimousse d'Or
    • 1930 Un Reve
    • Abance
    • Baiser d'Aurore

     Martial et Armand, couture house of 10 place Vendome, Paris. Established in 1907 by Martial & Armand, independent designers. Became very successful, perfumes introduced in 1924, was in exsitence til the 1950s,their bottles were usally produced by Lalique.

    • 1924 Un Rien
    • 1924 Gardenia
    • 1925 Mon Reve
    • 1926 Ambre
    • 1926 Chypre
    • 196 Place Vendome
    • 1928 Chez Martial et Armand
    • 1930 Presence

    Morny was established in 1910 in Regent Street, London. To convey the French image that was so desirable in the perfume market, the company added a "de" in front of its name. They sold luxurious French style presentations with perfumes with French names, The company was so successful in France that it opened a branch in Paris.

    • 1908 Chaminade
    • 1922 Narcisse Blanc et Noir
    • 1922 June Roses
    • 1922 Mysterieuse
    • 1922 Nuit de Carnival
    • 1922 Yesha
    • 1926 Tentation

    Little is known about the Salancy parfumerie. From what I gather, Salancy was established at 21 rue des Abeilles, Tours, France in 1913 by Henri Salmon and Henri Chancy. The two made the name Salancy from Salmon and Chancy. They produced cosmetics in addition to perfumes. The company was affiliated to Parfumerie Olga of Tours, France.

    • 1920 Babillage de Fleurs
    • 1920 Auberpine
    • 1920 Babillage des Fleurs
    • 1920s Le Roman de la Rose
    • 1920 Le Secret de Dame Violette.

    Saint Denis of Paris France & New York City.

    • 1925 Birch
    • 1925 Birch Buds
    • 1925 Blue Carnation
    • 1926 Eau de Cologne Royale
    • 1926 Jeunesse Vivante
    • 1928 Turandot
    • 1928 Vigorettes
    • 1931 Pine Rest
    • 1932 B18
    • 1932 De Tout Mon Coeur
    • 1932 Auf Wiedersehen
    • 1932 Liebestraum
    • 1933 Gardenia Royal
    • 1933 Non-At-All
    • 1933 Yankee Doodle
    • 1934 Lily of France
    • 1934 Royal Guard
    • 1934 The Grenadier
    • 1934 Parlez Moi D'Amour
    • 1934 Valse de Champagne
    • 1935 Au Revoir
    • 1935 Rose Geranium
    • 1935 Les Fleurs de Jasmin
    • 1936 Candle Light
    • 1936 Gay Nineties
    • 1936 Votre Beaute
    • 1936 Orchid
    • 1936 Loyalty
    • 1936 Hyde Park
    • 1936 Old Fashioned Bouquet
    • 1936 Madonna
    • 1936 Syncopation
    • 1936 La Royale
    • 1936 Saints Release
    • 1936 Chivalry
    • 1937 Affection
    • 1937 Tyrolean Pine
    • 1937 Dirnd'l
    • 1939 New Mown Hay
    • 1940 Zombie
    • 1941 Blue Sapphire
    • 1941 Jaunty

    Violet (Pronounced VEOLAY) Perfume Company of Paris France & New York City. You can also find the perfume company spelled Veolay. Veolay also manufactured compacts.

    • 1880 Extra Violette
    • 1892 Mealys
    • 1900 Ambre Royale
    • 1900 Auberpine
    • 1904 Azalia
    • 1905 Fleurs de Cyclamen
    • 1907 Bouquet Farnese
    • 1910 Rose Concentre
    • 1911 Valreine
    • 1913 Kassya
    • 1914 Altys
    • 1915 Niobe
    • 1918 Brise Violette
    • 1918 Prelia
    • 1918 Rameau Fleuri
    • 1920 Eau de Cologne Violet
    • 1922 Amorosa
    • 1922 Kiloe
    • 1922 Charmose
    • 1922 Musc
    • 1922 Viborg
    • 1922 Fleur de Giroflee
    • 1922 Brise Ambre
    • 1922 Tanagra
    • 1922 Ancien
    • 1922 Marechal
    • 1922 L'Heure Jolie
    • 1922 Oryane
    • 1922 Sylviane
    • 1922 Fougere d'Ecosse
    • 1922 Fastuosa
    • 1922 Curieux
    • 1922 Contes des Fees
    • 1922 Ylang
    • 1922 Rosamine
    • 1922 Gerbes Folles
    • 1922 Les Sylvies
    • 1924 Sketch
    • 1924 Chypre
    • 1924 Pourpre d'Automne
    • 1926 Ecoutez-Moi
    • 1926 Pour Rever
    • 1926 Satan
    • 1928 Eternelle Chanson
    • 1928 Pois de Senteur
    • 1930 Abime
    • 1930 Abricot
    • 1932 Apogee
    • 1939 Compliments
    • 1939 Cuir de Russie
    • 1939 Prologue
    • 1945 Intelligence
    • 1953 Refrain

    Silka.

    Silka.Established by Maurice Roussel at 16 quai de la Megisserie, Paris in 1909. He was related to Parfumerie Roussel family which was established in 1852, producer of the very successful Eau Gorlier in the 19th century. Silka was mainly a manufacturer of refined and sophiosticated perfumes and cosmetics with romantic, original perfume names. Their perfumes of the 1910-1920s period were marked by striking and unusual luxury presentations. The company was shut down during World War II and continued operations after the war was over until around 1950. Company revived sometime in the late 1990’s.

    • 1910 Caricia
    • 1912 Flamme Parfumee
    • 1917 Ikonia
    • 1918 Rose de Silka
    • 1919 Konia
    • 1920 Arôme Mystique
    • 1920 C'est
    • 1920 Chèvrefeuille
    • 1920 Rose
    • 1921 Bouquet Silka
    • 1921 Chypre
    • 1921 Jasmin
    • 1921 Lunasol
    • 1921 Muguet
    • 1921 Œillet
    • 1921 Violette
    • 1923 Narcisse
    • 1924 Caricia, relaunch
    • 1925 Alty's
    • 1925 L'Inattendue
    • 1925 Ami
    • 1926 Toquade
    • 1928 Narcisse Silka
    • 1928 Ombre du Soir
    • 1929 Si Tu Veux
    • 1930 Viens à Moi
    • 1946 Cœur de Paris
    • 1946 Fleurs de Tabac
    • 1946 Le Bouquet de Silka
    • 1946 S de Silka
    • 1946 Tabac de Iles
    • 1946 Coy de Paris
    • Style Fleuri

    Mury of Paris France. Established in 1917, Mury produced perfumes, cosmetics and toiletries. The company was affiliated with Henri Muraour, an important essential oils company founded in North Africa in 1789. They had branches in Algiers, Grasse & Paris. They became a major company in the 1920s with the success of the perfume Narcisse Bleu. Mury was known for their elegant presentations, but later made lower priced perfume presentations.

    • 1917 Caresse d'Amore
    • 1922 Civa
    • 1923 Le Beau Soir
    • 1923 Violetera
    • 1923 Le Jardin De Ma Soeur
    • 1925 Narcisse Bleu
    • 1926 Con Amore
    • 1926 Notturno
    • 1926 Amadis
    • 1926 Patricia
    • 1935 Risk
    • 1940 Cap A La Vie
    • 1940 Ete Fleuri

    Favolys, established in 1925 at 1 rue Pierre-Joigneaux, Asnieres (Seine) France, by Rene Desseignes who also established Parfumerie Francis in 1924 and Rendes in 1924, all of these companies were very shortlived and their bottles are rare:

    • 1925 Glyciane
    • 1920s Dolene

    Pleville, Paris France, established in 1922 by Michel Pleville. they were affiliated to Dalon:

    • 1923 Jasmin
    • 1923 Charme Caressant
    • 1924 Flamme de Glorie
    • 1923 Flamme d'Or
    • 1923 Flanerie
    • 1923 Mah Jongg
    • 1923 Triomphe de Pleville
    • 1925 Un Air Des Bois
    • 1925 Avec La Mode
    • 1926 Le Secret de la Perle
    • 1927 Plaisir d'Orient
    • 1927 Jardin d'Or

    Dalon, established in 1924 and affiliated to Pleville:

    • 1924 Charme Caressant

    Viville of Paris France, established in 1892 when Rene Albert Viville acquired Maison Camus, a company established in 1836 by Ernest Camus. They created low priced to luxury perfume presentations. Their best seller of the 19th century was the perfume Le Parfum des Femmes de France. The firm was later acquired by Yardley.:

    • 1904 Etoile de Napoleon
    • 1909 Baccanale
    • 1910 Baccara , reissued in 1930
    • 1919 Oeillet
    • 1920 Muguet de Mai
    • 1930 Coeur de L'Ete
    • 1930 Dame de Lague
    • 1930 Ecaille
    • 1930 Laquer Lady
    • 1930 Peony
    • 1930 Pres de Moi

    Gelle Freres of Paris France, established in 1826 by the brothers Augustin & Jean-Baptiste Gelle after purchase of formulas and shop which previously belonged to Fargeon Jeune, descendant of perfumer to Louis XV. Augustin's father in law, Emile Lecaron succeeded him. The company became a major exporter and produced luxurious presentations. They were awarded many prizes and the gold medal in 1925. :

    • 1889 Le Mikado
    • 1890 Memphis
    • c1900 Solange 
    • c1900 Savon Paradisia (soap)
    • 1908 Seduction
    • 1910 Noblesse Oblige
    • 1910 Quelques Success
    • 1911 Pour Etre Aimee
    • 1912 Nacreor
    • 1913 Regina
    • 1923 Caprice de Fleurs
    • 1925 Mon Caprice
    • 1925 Nythis
    • 1927 Etoile Noire
    • 1930 Narta

    The perfumes of Chevalier Garde:

    • 1936 Roi de Rome
    • 1938 Eaglet
    • 1939 HRH

    Clamy of Paris.Established in 1913 by Philippe de Back as Les parfumes de Clamy, Creations d'Art at Arcade des Champs-Elysees,Paris.The company produced luxury presentations featuring Gaillard bottles.The business was acquired by Grenoville in 1943.

    • 1913 Qui M’aime?
    • 1927 Femmes Ailes
    • 1928 Aire d’Ailes
    • 1920s Anthemis

    Verlayne of Paris. Established in 1944 at 9 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore, Paris.

    • 1944 Experience
    • 1944 Plaisirs
    • 1945 Sermaize
    • 1945 Tadla
    • 1945 Lumiere de Paris
    • 1946 Attente

    Marny of Paris France. Established sometime in the early 1900s and stayed in business until it was bought out by Jeunesse in 1945.Lalique produced a perfume bottle for Marny.

    • 1920 Ironie
    • 1920 Namouca
    • 1920 Sirene
    • 1920 Nuit d'Orient
    • 1926 Natacha
    • Fleurs de Lys
    • Gai Paris

    Les Parfums de Marcy.Established around 1910  possibly by Lazare Bloch at a small factory at Les Lilas. After becoming more successful a shop was opened at 120 avenue des Champs-Elysees in Paris.After the Second World War, the company was then affiliated with Societe Anonyme des Parfums Sidlay, with Paul Heymann as proprietor and true innovator. Many high quality presentations were created such as Les Fleurs Miraculeuses, Le Bouquet Miraculeux, Le Bracelet Miraculeux, and Le Collier Miraculeux.

    • 1919 L'Heure est Venue
    • 1920 Jasmin
    • 1925 L'Orange
    • 1927 Le Collier Miraculeux
    • 1928 Le Bracelet Miraculeux

    Honore Payan. The company was situated in Grasse, France. Honore Payan established his perfumery company in 1854 in Grasse and then moved to 33 boulevard Malesherbes,Paris.

    • 1908 Trefle
    • 1908 White Rose
    • 1908 La France Violet
    • 1908 Peau de Espagne
    • 1908 White Carnation
    • 1908 White Heliotrope
    • 1908 Crabapple
    • 1908 Hyacinth
    • 1908 Jasmine
    • 1908 Lilac Blossoms
    • 1908 Lily of the Valley
    • 1908 Jockey Club
    • 1914 Coeur Enchaine
    • 1927 Bakanir
    • Anemone
    • Aux Fleurs Triple Extrait

     

    AJ Hilbert & Co. of Milwaukee & De Pere, WI. In addition to perfumes, it seems this company also produced flavoring extracts, toiletries and cosmetics. Their perfumes were often combined with the words Essence De Luxe or Ultra Ess (Ultra Essence).  The company seems to have had it start in the 1890s and continued up until the late 1920s. Their products were offered in the Sears & Roebuck mail order catalogs in the early 1900s.The perfumes of AJ Hilbert & Co:

    • 1893 Crab Apple Blossom De Luxe
    • 1893 Carnation Pink
    • 1893 Jicky Ultra Ess De Luxe
    • c1900 Extract of White Rose
    • 1908 The Merry Widow
    • 1908 Princess Violet
    • 1908 Arbutus
    • 1893 De Luxe
    • 1894 Stolen Sweets
    • 1897 Kismet
    • 1900 Korn Blume
    • 1900 Violette Immortelle
    • 1900 American Beauty
    • 1908 Arbutus
    • 1908 Beauty Buds
    • 1908 Carnation
    • 1908 Cuir de Russe
    • 1908 De Luxe Florida Water
    • 1908 Dearie
    • 1908 Essence de Luxe
    • 1908 Floralia Perfume - Franjipanni
    • 1908 Floralia Perfume - Rose Geranium
    • 1908 Floralia Perfume - Sweet Pea
    • 1908 Floralia Perfume - Wood Violet
    • 1908 Forget-Me-Not
    • 1908 Furore
    • 1908 Hawthorne Blossoms
    • 1908 Jasmine
    • 1908 Jockey Club
    • 1910 Lilac Blossoms
    • 1910 Lily of the Valley
    • 1910 Mascot
    • 1910 May Blossoms
    • 1910 May Flower
    • 1910 Mi Carmen
    • 1910 Mikado
    • 1910 Musk
    • 1910 New Mown Hay
    • 1910 Pansy Blossoms
    • 1910 Patchouli
    • 1910 Peau d'Espagne
    • 1910 Philopena
    • 1910 Pond Lily
    • 1910 Primrose
    • 1910 Princess Violet
    • 1910 Queen Esther
    • 1910 Rex Violet
    • 1910 Senstation
    • 1910 Trixie
    • 1910 Ultra
    • 1910 Ultra Rose
    • 1910 Ultra Violet
    • 1910 White Rose
    • 1910 Wild Olive
    • 1910 Ylang-Ylang
    • 1912 Aloha
    • 1927 Black Cap
    • 1930 Nuit de Juin

    Godet Perfumery was established at 37 rue saint-Lazare, Paris in 1901 by Julien-Joseph Godet. The company sold perfumes and cosmetics, such as the popular Ma Poudre (My Powder) in 1911, which proved to be an avant garde presentation for its time. Godet succeeded in becoming a major international company by 1913, sadly the same year in which Godet died. The company was then taken control by his widow Losuie and the director, Abel Ravaud. the company won a gold medal at the 1925 Exposition in Paris. The company's perfume bottles displayed some of the finest labels of the era.

    • 1908 Sous Bois
    • 1909 Concentre de Violettes
    • 1911 Parfum d'Ambre
    • 1911 Tresor de Jasmin
    • 1913 Jerusalem
    • 1919 Cyclamen Fleuri
    • 1921 Petit Fleur Bleue
    • 1921 Cuir de Russie
    • 1923 Tut-An-Kham
    • 1924 Divinite
    • 1924 Parmi des Fleurs
    • 1925 Nuit D'Amour
    • 1927 Folie Bleue
    • 1953 Week-End

    Galeries Lafayette. This fabulous department store was founded in 1893 and boasts 7 floors of fashionable clothing, perfume, haberdashery, food, and all sorts of other designer and gourmet attractions. The ground floor houses mostly cosmetics and perfumes, and is quite possibly the largest perfume store in the world!In the early part of the 20th century, many department stores started creating their own in-house perfumes and cosmetics, both in America and in Paris. Finding these original vintage perfumes is tough, I have listed all that I could find. If you know of another, please let me know.
    • 1911 La Feuillaison
    • 1919 Chypre
    • 1920 Terre de Rez (face powder)
    • 1924 M'lati

    Lournay of 4 rue de la Paix, Paris.Lournay was a Franco-American company established in 1900 They produced low-priced to luxury perfume presentations until 1945, when they were acquired by Colgate.One of the finest and most rare of presentations introduced by Lournay would have to be the luxury Julien Viard edition for the perfume Vivante (alive) in 1923. This clear and frosted bottle had three identical Grecian figures on the bottle in brown patina.

  • 1920 Fleur de Mignon
  • 1920 Fleur Vivant
  • 1920 Qui Sait
  • 1921 L'Ile d'Amour
  • 1923 Vivante

    Guimet of Paris,France and New York City.Be on the lookout for the satin glass powder box created for Guimet in the early 1930s, I have seen this jar in pink glass.

    • 1928 Les Pois de Senteur
    • 1929 Jasmin
    • 1929 Chypre
    • 1929 Sweet Pea
    • 1929 Multi-Fleurs
    • 1929 Tout Paris
    • 1939 Jasmine

    Moehr perfumery of Monte Carlo. It was established by Nestor Moehr and Georges Moehr.

    • 1900 Frangipani
    • 1900 Bouquet Violettes
    • 1900  eau de cologne
    • 1925 Gardenia de Monte Carlo
    • 1925 Lotus Bleu
    • 1925 Ses Fleurs
    • 1925 Caprice de Femme
    • 1925 Le Zephir
    • 1925 Yule Tide
    • 1925 L'Aimee

    Mouilleron of 2 quai Billancourt, Billancourt (Seine) France, was established in 1819 and has a successful perfumery company until it was acquired by Cottan in 1935.Diamant Bleu of 156 rue du Faubourg-Saint-Honore,Paris was established in 1907 by F. Bagot & Cie. They made perfumes and dental products. In 1912, they were bought out by Groupement International des Grands Coiffeurs. Later purchased by Maurice Chalom & Elie Devaux du Gourd de Bruniere in 1926. Their most famous perfume was for Etoilee de Bagdad of 1927. In 1937 they were acquired by Cottan.Groupement International des Grandes Coiffeurs of 16 rue Saulnier, Paris was established around 1900 to provide luxury perfumes, beauty products and toiletries for sale at hairdressing salons.Cottan (Cottan-Porte) of 40 rue de Chateaudun, Paris was established in 1832 by Docteur Cottan and named La Parfumerie de la Societe Hygenique du Docteur Cottan 1840.The company manufactured perfumes, costmetics and toiletries, they produced unusual luxury presentations in the 1920s.

    The perfumes of Mouilleron:

    • 1910 Secret de Femme
    • 1926 Rosemary
    • 1926 Royalis Flor
    • 1926 Flodorys
    • 1926 Mon Beguin

    The perfumes of Diamant Bleu:

    • 1927 Etoilee de Bagdad

    The perfumes of Cottan,also known as Societe Hygienique:

    • 1857 Rouge de Bengal, reintroduced in 1924
    • 1917 Sybmee
    • 1921 Dacry
    • 1922 Lilas Cottan
    • 1922 Arnaga 
    • 1922 Incroyable Bouquet
    • 1922 Griserie
    • 1922 Krocusia
    • 1922 Laurosa
    • 1922 Musidora
    • 1922 Bronx Park
    • 1922 Heliosa
    • 1922 Rosilda
    • 1922 Cythise
    • 1922 Kiou-Li
    • 1922 Muguet de France
    • 1922 Japara
    • 1922 Lait du Violettes
    • 1922 Myrte d'Or
    • 1922 Violettes Derby
    • 1922 Eryda
    • 1922 Dazy
    • 1922 Si Jolie
    • 1922 Joye du Coeur
    • 1922 Rouge de Basque
    • 1922 Very Violet
    • 1924 Arnage
    • 1925 Chypre

    Callot Soeurs of 9-10 avenue Matignon,Paris, was established in 1895 by three sisters,Marie Callot Gerber (a designer), Marthe Callot Bertrand and Regine Callot Chantrelle. Under the creative designs of Marie, and designer friend Madame Madeliene Vionnet, Callot Soeurs became a leading fashion house, producing day time clothes, Oriental and period at-home and evening gowns. All creations featured the use of luxurious fabrics, sumptuous embroideries and fine fashion details. In 1923, perfumes, mostly inspired by China were introduced and were available up until the 1950s. The boxes for perfume were in the same shape as the boxes for the fashion house's clothes. The design house of Madame Vionnet of 50 avenue Montaigne,Paris, was established in 1912 by Madeleine Vionnet, who had previously worked for Kate Reilly of London, Callot Soeurs of Paris and Doucet of Paris. She was among the first to introduce collections without corsets,said to be inspired by actress Isadora Duncan, who refused to wear corsets.  Her couture house closed during World War I and reopened in 1919. She catered to the most prestigious of clientele. She introduced perfumes in 1924 and initially offered them only to her clients, there are only two commercial presentations known. Some of her early perfumes had simple letter names. Her salons closed in 1939. You can find more fashion info about Vionnet online.The design house of Louiseboulanger was also affiliated with Callot Soeurs. Louiseboulanger of 3 rue de Berri,Paris was established in 1923 by Louise Boulanger who catered to small elite group. The fabulous Marlene dietrich was a client. Louiseboulanger only launched one perfume commercially. Her house closed in 1939.The design house of Cheriut of 21 place Vendome,Paris, was affiliated with Louiseboulanger and was established by Madame Cheriut. She introduced perfumes around 1925 with the debut o fher signature fragrance.

    The perfumes of Callot Soeurs:

    • 1923 Bel Oiseau Bleu
    • 1923 Chichicallot
    • 1923 Il Pleut des Baisers
    • 1923 La Fille du Roi de Chine
    • 1923 Le Louis D'Or
    • 1940s Jeep 
    • 1947 Dieu du Jour
    • 1947 Bao
    • 1947 Mariage D'Amour

    The perfumes of Louiseboulanger:

    • 1923 Louberri

    The perfumes Madame Madeleine Vionnet:

    • 1924 Temptation (released to the public in 1940)
    • 1924 Madame Madeleine Vionnet
    • 1924 A
    • 1924 B
    • 1924 C
    • 1924 D

    A. Gravier of Paris, and 6 rue Casimir-Pinel,Neuilly (Seine) France.Established around 1880 by Alphonse Gravier at 83 rue du Temple in Paris. His company became very important after the introduction of Dr. Peterson and Salutine health products: toothpaste,soaps and perfumes. A. Gravier launched several luxury presentations during the 1920s and own a Silver medal at the Paris Exhibition in 1925. Gravier's perfume bottle for the 1926 scent, La Cascade was made by Baccarat.A. Gravier's labels were supplied by G. Millot starting around 1890. Millot's other clients included: J. Giraud et Fils, Godet, & Lorenzy-Palanca.

    • 1906 Pluie d'Or
    • 1910 Ambre Hindou
    • 1910 Me Voici
    • 1910 Soir de Bal
    • 1910 Niege de Printemps
    • 1911 L'envoutement
    • 1912 Hantise
    • 1912 Carvaglios
    • 1912 La Cascade
    • 1912 De Cinq a Sept
    • 1912 La Joie de Aimer
    • 1913 Delly
    • 1913 Le Narcisse
    • 1913 Voltigy
    • 1916 Malice
    • 1919 Violette
    • 1919 Chypre 
    • 1919 Le Rose Coppies
    • 1919 Le Reflect
    • 1920 Coeur de Poete
    • 1920 Dans les Bles
    • 1920 Delys
    • 1920 Jane Marnac
    • 1920 Jardin de Mai
    • 1920 Joie de Fleurs
    • 1920 Joie de Nice
    • 1920 Kantia
    • 1920 Nuit de Venice
    • 1920 Orgueil de Reine
    • 1920 Retour des Champs
    • 1920 Secret de France
    • 1920 Soir de Bal
    • 1920 Tout le Prairie
    • 1920 Troublant Secret
    • 1922 Ambre Mysterieuse
    • 1922 Aux Violettes
    • 1922 Hotiva
    • 1925 Pres du Jardin
    • 1925 Ame de France
    • 1925 Coquin d'Amour
    • 1925 Gerbera de Bonheur
    • 1928 Je Viens de Paris
    • Véritable Essence de Lavande de l'Orisans

    Joubert of New York City & Jersey City,NJ.  Was also affiliated with the Jolind and Blue Waltz companies. I am sure there are more perfumes to be found, if I left one out, let me know.

    • 1927 Blue Garden
    • 1927 Blue Waltz
    • 1927 D'Anjou
    • 1927 A Toi Cherie (under the Blue Waltz label)
    • 1929 Divine Kiss
    • 1931 Empress Eugenie (under the Blue Waltz label)
    • 1932 Irresistible
    • 1932 Lip Lure
    • 1932 Letty Lynton
    • 1934 Duchess of Paris (under Jolind label)
    • 1934 Countess Joubert (under the Blue Waltz label)
    • 1936 Mischief
    • 1937 Expectation
    • 1937 Imagination
    • 1937 Infatuation
    • 1937 Oriental Lure
    • 1937 Singapore Nights
    • 1937 Naughty
    • 1939 Sweet Moments
    • 1939 Mischief (under the Blue Waltz label)
    • 1939 The Duke (under the Blue Waltz label)
    • 1939 The Duchess (under the Blue Waltz label)

    Henri Bendel Inc. of New York City. Henri Bendel opened his first store in 1912 in New York City. Like other fine department stores of the era, he introduced house perfumes starting in 1915. Born in Louisiana in 1858, he opened a luxury fashion house at 10 West 57th Street, New York, USA in 1896. He was the first American House to launch fragrances; also sold cosmetics and toiletries .

    • 1915 Un Peu d'elle
    • 1927 No. 7
    • 1927 Folle Journee
    • 1927 Gout du Jour
    • 1927 Chute D'Un Ange
    • 1927 Ma Violette
    • 1927 Ma Rose
    • 1927 Mon Jasmin
    • 1928 Cinque Triple Cinque
    • 1929 Jasmin de Japan
    • 1932 Dites-Moi Oui
    • 1932 Zita
    • 1935 Etoile Filante
    • 1937 Si Rare
    • 1938 Suede
    • 1939 Sans-gene
    • 1940s Bendelilas
    • 1940 Checkmate
    • 1940 White Freezia
    • 1941 Eau de Sachet
    • 1943 10 West

    United Drug Co. of New York City and Boston, Massachusetts. They also operated under the name Langlois. You can also find compacts from Langlois, usually marked Cara Nome, Shari or Jonteel.

    • 1915 Bouquet Dazira
    • 1916 Narcisse
    • 1917 Coeur d'Or
    • 1918 Cara Nome
    • 1918 Violet Dulce
    • 1918 Jonteel
    • 1918 Truflor
    • 1920 Arbutus
    • 1921 Juneve
    • 1922 Coeur de Trefle
    • 1922 Coeur de Violette
    • 1922 June Bouquet
    • 1922 Nacre
    • 1922 Alma Zada
    • 1922 Dazira
    • 1922 Fleur des Bois
    • 1922 Harmony
    • 1922 Harmony Trefle
    • 1922 Intense
    • 1922 White Lilac
    • 1922 Rose
    • 1923 Duska Toilet Water
    • 1924 Bouquet Ramee
    • 1925 Shari
  • Molyneux Perfumes

    Molyneux of 5 rue Royale, Paris. Couture house, established in 1919 by Edward Molyneux, Irish origins, London-born designer who trained at Lucile Ltd. First 20th century British couturier, working in Paris to be able to impose the British clothing taste, sober, classic fashions that were very successful. Introduced three perfumes in 1925, all with names associated with their rue Royale address: Parfum 3 was named after Maxim's restaurant, Parfum 14 was named after  Molyneux 's previous address, Le Numero Cinq  was named after  current address. Curiously the perfume was sold in the USA as Le Parfum Connu, because Chanel had introduced her Parfum No. 5 in 1921.
    • 1925 "3"
    • 1925 "5" also known as Numero Cinq
    • 1925 "14"
    • 1927 Connu de Molyneux
    • 1927 Fete de Molyneux
    • 1928 Charm de Molyneux
    • 1928 Le Chic de Molyneux
    • 1929 Le Perfume Connu
    • 1930 Vague
    • 1930 Une Idee de Molyneux
    • 1931 Vivre
    • 1931 Viore
    • 1932 Le Chic
    • 1935 Rue Royale
    • 1947 Magnificence de Molyneux
    • 1962 Fete
    • 1971 Vivre, reintroduced
    • 1975 Captain Molyneux
    • 1977 Quartz
    • 1981 Gauloise

     

    Bichara Perfumes

    Bichara of  10 rue de la Chausse-d'Antin, Paris France.

    The Bichara perfume company was established in 1896 by Bichara Malhame (from Beirut), who styled himself as "The Syrian Perfumer". The company was first located in Rouen and Dieppe. His perfumes were advertised as "parfums enivrants" (intoxicating perfumes).

    The hair dye "Extrait de Henne Bichara" of 1899 was so successful that it financed the introduction of luxury perfumes. Bichara maintained that luxury image through it's shop and constant exposure in the French press. It was advertised as "Allah est grand et Bichara est son parfumeur" (Allah is good and Bichara is his perfumer"). Bichara also produced fine hennas for the hair, Le Henne Bichara, and kohl eye makeup called Mokoheul, this eye cosmetic was probably introduced in 1913 and stayed very popular into the 1920s. Another eye cosmetic was Cillana which I found reference in a 1913 ad. These two eye cosmetics were advertised as  for "charme, beaute, sante des yeux", (charm , beauty and eye health). Eau des Roses Syrie was a skin brightener which also freshened the skin.

    Around the turn of the century, the company became immensely successful with Sarah Bernhardt as his muse, who publicly endorsed perfumes. Bichara perfumes were her favorites.Bichara's client included the playwright Edmond Rostand who  called Bichara " the poet of perfume". Other notable clients were: Gabriel  Faure, Gabriele d'Annunzio, and Edouard de Max.Bichara supplied the Royal  Egyptian court. In the 1920s, he opened a luxury fashion shop in London, introducing "couture made perfumes". The company exported worldwide.

    One of his finest perfume presentations was for the 1928 perfume Ramses II, in a tall, obelisk shaped bottle decorated with Egyptian hieroglyphs. The bottle was manufactured by the Cristalleries de Saint-Louis. This bottle is rarely found today and when it does surface, it commands high prices fit for a pharaoh himself.

    Another fine perfume presentation was for the perfume Myrbaha, launched  in 1913, Baccarat bottle, frosted stopper in shape of pharaoh's head with grey patina. I have seen this bottle also used for Nirvana, Ambre, Yahvahna and Chypre perfumes. 5 7/8" tall. I have also had this stopper on a very rare pyramid shaped bottle before.

    Early labels on cosmetics and perfumes, portrayed Bichara seizing the mythological Fortune by the hair  with the inscription "Comment Bichara saisit la fortune" ( How Bichara grabs good fortune). An appropriate image since Bichara's original fortune was made on the hair product "Le Henne Bichara". The labels were redesigned in the 1920s by FL Schied in Art Deco style. Bichara also appeared on a Baccarat stopper portraying himself as an Egyptian pharaoh. Bichara Malhame died in 1930 and was succeeded by his daughter, Rose but the quality of perfume presentations declined  and character of company changed, exemplified by Handle with Care in 1945. Bichara continued production into the 1950s.

    • 1913 Nirvana
    • 1913 Myrbaha
    • 1913 Yahvahna
    • 1913 Ambre
    • 1913 Nahila
    • 1913 Violette Des Damas
    • 1913 Ambre Egyptien
    • 1913 Mokoheul (kohl eye makeup)
    • 1913 Eau de Roses de Syrie (skin freshener)
    • 1913 Roses de Syrie
    • 1913 Eau d'Albanie
    • 1913 Chypre de Limassol
    • 1913 Syriana
    • 1913 Therapia
    • 1913 Emirah
    • 1913 Fullah
    • 1913 Leila
    • 1913 Cillana
    • 1913 Sakountala
    • 1917 Saisit la Fortune
    • 1921 Cabiria
    • 1921 Rose Dame
    • 1921 Liliana
    • 1922 Delices de Pera
    • 1922 Bosphora
    • 1922 Gaudika
    • 1928 Ramses II
    • 1930s 8 Mai
    • 1945 Handle With Care
    • 1953 Viens

    Coryse was established in 1919 by Maurice Blanchetat 64 rue de la Chaussee-d'Antin, Paris and sold perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics. He purchased the perfumery Salome in 1929 and the two companies merged into Coryse-Salome. Salome was established in 1909 by Marius Cartier and sold perfumes,cosmetics and toiletries at his shop at 8 place de l'Opera, Paris. Salome was affiliated with Cartier. Cartier was established as "Parfums d'Art,Grand Luxe" by Marius Cartier around 1900 at 9 rue Garnier, Neuilly (Seine) France. Cartier sold perfumes of the highest luxury and Baccarat was a supplier o ftheir perfume bottles.

    The perfumes of Coryse:

    • 1917 Ylanga
    • 1924 Chypre
    • 1928 Vinca

    The perfumes of Coryse-Salome:

    • 1920s Rose d'Ispahan
    • 1932 Opera
    • 1946 Epilogue
    • 1951 Creation
    • 1972 Coryssima
    • 1977 Intrepid

    Legrain was established in 1921 at 9 rue Richepanse, Paris by Simon Moscovitz with associate Alzic Manole. Moscovitz was later known as Simon Legrain or isidore Legrain. They produced hluxurious and humorous presentations.

    • 1924 Vieux Paris
    • 1937 Noblesse
    • 1940 Armistice
    • 1940 Royal Ambree
    • 1945 Anonyme
    • 1945 Chantage
    • 1946 Bride au Vent

    D’Ormo Company of New York and New Haven, Connecticut.

    • 1913 Peg O’ My Heart
    • 1921 La Victoire
    • 1921 Kiss-Me
    • 1921 Dainty Maid
    • 1922 Garden Blossoms
    • 1922 Naturelle Fleurs
    • 1922 Triomphe
    • 1922 Two-Lips

    Aristide Boucicaut for his Paris department store, Le Bon Marche. I know there are more perfumes that may be found, but here are all the ones I was able to locate. Soap names will be preceded with Savon. In 1924, Baccarat produced a crystal bottle for Boucicaut Maison. All dates are circa. Perfumes and soaps can be found with either the Au Bon Marche or A. Boucicaut name on the labels.

    • 1875 Essence Bouquet
    • 1875 Essence Violet
    • 1875 Heliotrope
    • 1900 Savon Cadolia
    • 1900 Essence Violet Parfum Naturel
    • 1918 Je t'Dore
    • 1924 Le Charme
    • Chypre Bac
    • Eau de Cologne Royalty

    The perfumes of Au Bon Marche:

    • 1900 Extrait Triple des Fleurs Bouquet
    • 1900 Savon A L'Eau de Cologne
    • 1900 Essence Fidelis
    • 1900 Savon Surfin Glycerine
    • 1900 Le Royal
    • 1900 Violettes Irises
    • 1900 Lait Aux Violettes du Japon
    • 1900 Essence de Rose-The
    • 1910 Violette
    • 1924 Cuir de Russie
    • 1924 Eau Dentifrice

    J. Chamberry of France. The dates listed are circa dates as information is extremely scant on this short lived perfumer.

    • 1900 Vraie Violette
    • 1900 Heliotrope
    • 1910 Rose
    • 1910 A La Reine des Pres
    • 1910 Brise de Printemps
    • 1910 Mon Reve
    • 1910 Parfum Oriental Por Cigarettes
    • 1910 Enjoleuse
    • 1910 Huile Pour Chevelure
    • 1910 Folle Ivresse
    • 1910 La capricieuse

    Jean Giraud Fils of Grasse and Paris France. The company produced perfumes and soaps and was established in 1853 as Giraud Freres. Later on it was simply named Jean Giraud Fils  and was acquired by various essential oil producers in Grasse, such as Honore-Joseph Sozio around 1900. The company was successful and had large exports to South America. Other information is scant and I have provided all I can find. Some of the perfumes below are circa dated and may be older than the dates in which I have provided..

    • 1900 Essence Concentre a la Giroflee Blanche
    • 1900 Cassiris
    • 1900 Australian Bouquet
    • 1900 Idilio
    • 1900 Cattleya
    • 1900 Eau de Cologne Russe
    • 1912 Cupidon
    • 1920 Folavril
    • 1920 Provence
    • 1920 Recontre
    • 1922 Les Fleurs le Muguet
    • 1920 Lavande des alpes
    • 1920 au Muguet des Alpés
    • 1920 Maflor
    • 1922 Bouquet Royale
    • 1922 dans le Nues
    • 1922 Fleur de jasmin
    • 1922 fleur de rose
    • 1922 japtis
    • 1922 oeillet
    • 1922 mariana
    • 1922 lysine
    • 1922 odorantis
    • 1922 parfum reve

    Bacorn Company of Elmira, NY.