CLEOPATRA'S BOUDOIR

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by Isabey of 20 rue de la Paix, Paris France. Company established in 1924 by Maurice Loewe (with financing from the Rothschild family) as Societe Parisienne d'Essences Rares et Parfums, known to the public as Le Parfums d'Isabey. The boutique was located at 20 rue de la Paix, Paris. Other sources report that Isabey was originally from Spain. Also, it is interesting to note that some of the perfumes launch dates are earlier than the 1924 Parisian establishment date, which may support the earlier establishment in Spain.The company was named after early 19th century painter Louis Gabriel Eugene Isabey.

The company conveyed the image of long-established, refined French artistry. Because they were well-financed, the company had all the earmarks of success: only the highest-quality perfumes with luxurious presentations and a most splendid shop. So great was their success that they had considerable exports to the USA. Many of their bottles were designed by Julien Viard and produced by Baccarat, Bobin Freres Glassworks and Rene Lalique. Paper, labels and graphics were supplied by the company of Sennet et Cie.

The perfume of Mon Seul Ami came in a black crystal flacon trimmed with silver overlay, in three graduated sizes, manufactured by Ludwig Moser Glassworks in Bohemia in 1926. An earlier bottle for Mon Seul Ami, and used for other perfumes, was originally designed by Henri Hamm in 1914, and made up of clear and frosted crystal molded with abstract floral patterns, manufactured by Bobin Freres Glassworks.

Several of Isabey’s perfumes were presented in pearlized flacons by Andre Jolivet and manufactured by the Nesle Normandeuse Glassworks around 1925. These iridescent flacons were in the shape pf pearls and came in various sizes, each was presented in a purple leatherette case. The most famous of these presentations was the six bottle Le Collier d’Isabey, mimicked a pearl necklace in a demi-lune shaped case, which won them the Gold Medal at the 1925 Paris Exhibition and was awarded gold, not bad for a company that was barely one year old.

The flacon for Bleu de Chine, from 1925, was designed by Julien Viard and manufactured by the Bobin Freres Glassworks. It featured jewel like enameling over its floral molded façade. Bleu de Chine was also presented in a five piece set by Ludwig Moser of Boehmia.

1925’s Rose de Argent’s round bottle was made up of cobalt blue glass and rested inside of a silverplated base, this flacon was also designed by Julien Viard.

The unusual bottle for Ambre de Carthage, designed by Julien Viard, featured a melted wax type of enameled decoration, as if it was being dripped onto the top and shoulders of the clear oval shaped bottle.

Simple lines and an ovoid shape defined the bottles for Le Mugeut, Le Mimosa and Gardenia in Julien Viard’s 1926 flacons of clear crystal.

In 1927, Julien Viard created a tall flacon for Sourire Fleuri which featured a frieze of nude Neo-Classical figures enhanced by black patina, made by Depinoix, a similar flacon was created for La Route d’Emeraude in 1924.

1925 saw a Viard flacon for Fleur de Chine in an unusual shape of which I can only describe as a tunic design, accented with floral molding along the shoulders and stopper, each picked out in bleu patina.

Exotic Arabian themes and Moorish design highlighted the flacons for Chypre Celtic, Le Lys Noir and Ambre de Carthage in 1924, all created by Julien Viard and Bobin Freres Glassworks. Another clear crystal bottle for Le Lys Noir was manufactured in 1928 by Rene Lalique, this time, it was covered with black enameled Egyptian lotuses.

The square crystal bottle for A Travers la Voilette was manufactured by Rene Lalique and enameled by artist Alix. Its decoration was a simple stenciled flower and leaf pattern towards the bottom in gold and black enamel. Another variation of this bottle's decoration features stylized black scales with gold enamel dots. Probably also painted by Alix. This bottle dates to the 1920s.

The company was later acquired by Marcel Guerlain in 1941.

The Perfumes of Isabey:

1913 Le Lys Noir

1914 Bouquet Cavalieri

1914 Mon Seul Ami

1920 Ambre de Carthage

1924 La Route D'Emeraude

1924 Le Chypre Celtic/Celtique

1924 Bleu de Chine

1924 Lilas

1924 Le Jasmine d'Isabey

1924 Sir Gallahad

1925 Fleur de Chine

1925 Le Collier Isabey

1925 Le Perle d'Isabey

1925 Tresor Cache

1925 Le Mimosa

1925 Le Muguet

1925 Le Gardenia

1926 Sourire Fleuri

1926 Rosee d’Argent

1927 Rayon Vert

1927 Divertissement

1927 Emaux Rouge

1928 Le Gardenia d'Isabey

1928 Mimosa

1928 Salle de Trone

1929 D'Yvonne Printemps

1930 Carnation

1930 Moins Cinq

1930 Œillet

1930 Violette

1935 Grand Slam

1944 Tendres Nuits

These perfumes were found, but I dont know their launch dates:

c1920s A Travers la Voilette

Avant et Apes

Arabesque

Le Lys d'Isabey

Milieu

Taj Mahal

Tendre Nuits

Venise de Belle  

The Parfumerie of Isabey has been resurrected with the help of Parfums Panouge and with it came the relaunch of its infamous luscious Gardenia perfume. The new Gardenia actually uses pure Gardenia extract instead of a Gardenia accord. The intensely sensual eau de parfum has notes of tangerine bark, ylang-ylang, orange flowers, gardenia extract, Bulgarian rose, jasmine, iris, musk, ambergris, sandalwood. A sumptuous limited edition in the vintage pearl style bottle was offered in 2002 and almost immediately sold out. It was relaunched again in the familiar gold spray bottle in 2007 to satisfy further demand.

Newly launched for 2009 is Fleur Nocturne based on Isabey’s original perfume Bleu de Chine from 1925. The contemporary flacon is based on the original flacon by Julien Viard. The new juice, composed by French perfumer, Jean Jacques and incorporates mandarin, white peach and apricot blossom in top notes. A heart hides jasmine, gardenia and magnolia, while a base features patchouli and vanilla.

Success story for an ebayer who chose my helpful perfume identification & appraisal service: Congratuations to ebayer m0narchs for a killer $4,000 sale in 2007 for the extremely rare set of Le Collier d'Isabey! Far exceeded the $1,000-$3,000 appraisal value.