CLEOPATRA'S BOUDOIR

Miss Natalie Thurston was an international beauty advisor and created her own cosmetics company in the late 1920s and continued into the early 1930s. She also had her own perfume company and had an office in Paris and New York.

Her perfume seems to be simply called, Natalie Thurston based on the gold foil label, depicting a 18th century woman of Aristocratic grade, a popular theme at the time.

 I believe that Natalie Thurston perfume's were going to be part of a “line” of fragrances and maybe that didn’t work out. Thurston was most likely going to create different perfumes which would have necessitated that another label be wrapped around the neck of the bottle denoting which perfume was inside. Since I don’t see one or traces of one, I am just going to suggest that Natalie Thurston was the perfume name too.

 The bottles she uses seem to be American slag glass ones that are made up of green malachite glass, possibly made by Akro Agate?

In a 1928 article, "Pretty Girls Have Odds For Office Career", Natalie makes a point of telling the young women that they have the advantage.

 New York - Carry your diploma in one hand and your powder puff in the other if you want to succeed I business, was the advice given to a group of college girls here by that international authority on feminine pulchritude, Miss Natalie Thurston, of New York and Paris.

“Good looks , careful grooming and a general air of prosperity,” Miss Thurston told an employee training class, “are as much a part of the working girl’s equipment as technical knowledge of the job she is about to undertake. Any employment agent will tell you that big business men demand beauty I their offices. “send me somebody easy to look at’ , Mr. Average Employer whispers through the telephone to his personnel representative. ‘Remember I am getting along in years so is everybody in my home, and I want to be surrounded by youth and beauty in the office.’ Nowadays it is the rare employer who does not request his prospective secretary to remove her hat and be seated behind the typewriter, so he may see whether she fits into his office setting before hiring her. Pretty girls,” continued Miss Thurston, “enjoy all the advantages in business. They get the good jobs, the worth while promotions, and the offers of marriage. More sweet girl grads starting out on careers have lost out because of lack of beauty than lack of brains. At first thought this may sound unfair. But is it? The present age of perfected cosmetics has placed beauty within the reach and purse of every woman. Certainly those who are smart enough to make themselves attractive during working hours are putting more into their work than those who believe that pounding a typewriter or balancing a set of books is all they are hired to do. What makes the modern business woman attractive is not inherited beauty. Good skin, sparkling eyes, well-kept hair, carefully manicured hands and a trim, youthful figure-the result of care and sane, wholesome living-are what distinguish the office swan from the ugly duckling of business.”

Natalie Thurston’s advice for mature women’s cosmetics in another 1928 newspaper reveals that she “maintains that “Fascinating Forty” has advantages over “Sweet Sixteen”, if the older woman takes the care of her personal grooming that she should.”

She goes on to explain that “Blushing youth has no advantages over blushed -out maturity. If you doubt it, hire yourself a front row table at any smart night club and see who rates the masculine attention. Sweet 16 may win the dancing marathon, but when it comes to picking the women men love to look at, Fascinating 40 gets the breaks.IIn my opinion, there are more outstanding beauties between 30 and 40 than among young girls under 21, Ethel Barrymore, Gloria Swanson, Mary Pickford, the Talmadge and the Gish sisters, all famous for feminine perfection, are well over 25.”

She goes on to say that, “After all, a face is but the mirror of a mind. Theaverage woman does not begin life until she is 30. After that, experience, plus the perfected cosmetics of this era, givers her a 60-40 advantage over youth. But the older woman must remember to make the most of her advantages. She really needs to be more careful of her grooming than the younger girl in her first blush of youth.”

1928 the San Jose News reported that “Beauty Fools Average Man, says Expert.”

New York, “Can the average man recognize a synthetic beauty from oe who comes naturally by her loveliness?

Yes, he can-NOT.

Women, according to Miss Natalie Thurston, internationally famous beauty authority of New York and Paris, can tell nine times out of 10 whether the woman they pass on the street is an artificial charmer or a born beauty. But man-,"Ninety-eight percent of the time.”, said Miss Thurston, in an address before a group of cosmeticians here, “he is fooled.”

“Modern makeup is so skillfully and artfully applied that only a practiced eye can detect it from nature’s own. Just as they say it takes a thief to catch a thief, so in my opinion, it requires a woman who uses the lipstick and rabbit’s foot on herself to recognize its tracks across the face of another. If you disagree, glance around your favorite tearoom the next time you dine away from home and see for yourself if you can discriminate between the girl who cosmetizes beauty into her face and the one whom nature has endowed. The real and the artificial possess the same camelia complexions. Their cupid’s bows are identical. A microscope would be necessary to distinguish between their curled or curling lashes." 

“Up to the time that rouge, lipsticks, eyebrow pencils, face powder and all the rest made their debut in high society, faces were the chief battlegrounds of feminine competition. In those days women were taken at their face value. If a man encountered a lady with rosy cheeks or a peaches-and-cream complexion at a church social, he knew she was the unadulterated thing. There was not a chance in the world of his drifting away to her wrinkled and sallow faced rival. But perfected cosmetics have changed all of this. Nowadays a man may look and look and look again without being absolutely sure what he is looking at, for feminine faces have become conventional masks upon which their owners are painting their own conceptions of womanly beauty.”

The Milwaukee Journal, 1928, Rosy Cheeks? They’re Usually Painted.

“New York- If she’s over 25, men, the chances are about 30 to 1 in favor of the roses in her cheeks are being art work.

There are less than 1,000,000 women over the quarter century mark in the United States whose natural color precludes the necessity of using rouge and lipstick“, according to Miss Natalie Thurston who expressed her views in an address here.

“With the other 29,000,000 women included in this age period, makeup is as necessary to their personal adornment as hats. Color gives the feminine face as much character as the contour of the features. With the exception of around the eyes, there is astonishingly little expression of individuality to be found in the modern woman’s face as seen au naturel. A line or two drawn with a lipstick at the corners of the mouth can change a pessimistic person into an optimistic one. A hint of carmine on the cheeks may spell the difference between the blush of the 19 year old and the woman of 50. The average American man is not exacting., but he prefers color to a monotonous dead white. Think over the old maids in your acquaintance and you will find that they consist almost without exception of women who did not keep up with the trend of the times and the art of cosmetizing. Color attracts the eye, whether it be that on a canvas, a flower or the face feminine.”

In a 1929 newspaper blurb about the ingredients of lipsticks and she was asked “What do women wear on their lips?“ She is quoted as saying that women are putting “perfume, cocoa butter, beeswax, lanolin, spermaceti, paraffin and vegetable coloring.”

Estee Lauder Perfumes

In this guide, I have listed the various perfumes presented by Estee Lauder from 1953 to 1998.

The perfumes of Estee Lauder:

• 1953 Youth Dew
• 1964 Aramis
• 1968 Estee
• 1969 Azuree
• 1969 Estee Super
• 1972 Aliage
• 1973 Private Collection
• 1978 Cinnabar
• 1978 Celadon
• 1978 Pavillion
• 1978 White Linen
• 1985 Beautiful
• 1985 Lauder for Men
• 1987 Metropolis
• 1991 Spellbound
• 1995 Pleasures
• 1996 White Linen Breeze
• 1997 Pleasures for Men
• 1998 Dazzling Gold
• 1998 Dazzling Silver

Various Obscure American Perfume Companies

The perfumes of FR Arnold of New York City:

• 1885 May Bells
• 1887 Lily-Bells
• 1890 Lilacblooms
• 1924 Pavot
• 1926 Allumettes

The perfumes of the Ayer Company of Lowell,MA:

• 1931 Ardeur

The perfumes of Anna Ayers of Chicago,IL:

• 1922 Ayers Doris Bouquet

The perfumes of Beecham's Laboratory of Oscawana,NY:

• 1919 La Rie
• 1922 Ambrosia
• 1922 Fleur d'Ete
• 1922 Royal English Rose
• 1925 Lady Teasel

Amzell was a New York perfumer.

• 1945 Windswept

Arlt was a New York perfumery company based in Brooklyn.

• 1914 Veragen
• 1924 Artistique
• 1926 Orchard Wedding

Agra was a perfume company out of Detroit.

• 1910 Agnes Sorel
• 1923 Ci-Mi

Are-Jay was a perfumery from New York City. The perfumes of Are-Jay:

• 1938 Three Little Minks

Robaire Alain of Los Angeles,CA:

• 1962 Canibelle
• 1962 Cote D'Or
• 1962 Durango
• 1962 Jaguar
• 1962 Rafifi

The perfumes of Arthur O. Anderson of Cedar Rapids,IA:

• 1938 Blue Bonnet

The perfumes of Ethel G. Anderson of Chicago, IL:

• 1930 Jeunesse doree

The perfumes of Karl O. Anderson of Omaha,NE:

• 1930 Celebrity

The perfumes of MV Anderson & Co of Lewiston,ME:

• 1921 Maban

The perfumes of Andre-Lee of New York City:

• 1944 Bachelor's Bait

The perfumes of Anre ( Harry D. Koenig) of New York City:

• 1941 Trique
• 1941 Gay Divorcee
• 1945 Caramba

The perfumes of Benjamin Ansehl of St Louis, MO:

• 1927 Amethyst
• 1934 Lavender & Old Lace
• 1934 Orchids in the Moonlight
• 1936 Futura
• 1941 Award Cologne

William H. Brown & Bros (also called Brown & Brothers) perfumery was located in Baltimore, Md. Their bottles are hard to find and I have named all of those I could find in advertisements of the era, so they may have been originally launched years before. I am sure there are more, so if you know of any, please let me know. I believe their perfume company was established in the mid 1800s. In 1871, their warehouse was destroyed by a storm. They trademarked a perfume called Violet Simplicity in 1900.

The perfumes of Brown & Brothers:

• 1880s Indian Queen
• 1890s Jockey Club
• 1900 Violet Simplicity
• 1900 Absolute Violet
• 1900 Arbutus
• 1908 Apple Blossom
• 1912 Garden of Allah
• 1913 Dixie Blossoms
• 1922 Dream Violet
• 1922 Snow Violet
• 1922 Heliotrope Blossom
• 1922 Siren Lilac
• 1922 Jess
• 1922 Pearls of Hyacinths
• 1922 Pearls of Lilacs
• 1922 Pearls of Violets
• 1922 Marguerite
• 1922 Orchard Blossom
• 1922 Eileen
• 1923 Dreamerie

David S. Brown & Co was established in New York City during the mid to late 1800s.

I saw an advertisement for 1882 that listed them as soapmakers & perfumers.Their bottles are also very hard to find and I have listed all the perfume names I could find. David S. Brown & Co. produced The Yellow Kid soap around 1902.

The perfumes of David S. Brown:

• 1878 Bonanza
• 1895 Forest Fringe
• 1895 Brownie

Nathan R. Brownell was established in Schenevus, NY, probably around the turn of the century. I was only able to locate one of their scents, but I am sure there are more out there.

• c1900 Violet Toilet Water

CB Woodworth & Sons of Rochester, New York. Established in 1854 as Woodworth & Bunnel as a company that sold perfumes, cosmetics and toiletries. The company proved to be very successful even without the usage of extensive advertising until 1928. Some of their French luxury presentations featured bottles by Julien Viard and Maurice Depinoix.Starting in 1930, Woodworth became a subsidary company of Internation Perfume Inc of New York and was marketed under its Bourjois Paris label.The two most popular scents were Fiancee and Karess. You might find the compacts online for Karess or the pretty frosted perfume bottles for Fiancee.

• 1873 Centennial
• 1885 Pearl of Savoy
• 1887 Blue Lilies
• 1890 Spanish Lilac
• 1894 Diana
• 1900 Nina
• 1905 Anona
• 1905 Apollo Violet
• 1905 Apollo Rose
• 1908 Violets of Sicily
• 1909 Conceit
• 1910 Apple Bouquet
• 1910 Amaryllis Bouquet
• 1912 Fiancee
• 1912 Santana
• 1913 Mandarin Rose
• 1914 La Dansante
• 1915 La Nocturne
• 1916 Garden Fragrance
• 1917 Karess
• 1925 Viegay
• 1929 Vivace
• Tous les bouquets

The perfumes of Adrian:

• 1944 Saint
• 1944 Sinner
• The perfumes of Anjou:
• 1940 Apropos
• 1943 Devastating
• 1952 Side Glance

The perfumes of Angelique of Wilton,CT, established 1946:

• 1946 Black Satin
• 1949 White Satin
• 1950 Gold Satin
• 1954 Red Satin
• 1950 Pink Satin

The perfumes of Alexa Inc:

• 1944 Enigma

The perfumes of Aubry Sisters of New York City:

• 1915 Reve d'Amour

The perfumes of Aucoin of New Orleans,LA:

• 1925 Ashes of Roses
• 1938 Nuit de Fleurs
• 1942 Chanson D'Amour

The perfumes of Auvergne of Springfield,MA:

• 1937 After Five

The perfumes of Auziere of Nashville,TN:

• 1947 Secret d'Amour

The perfumes of Allen Cosmetic Co (Kathryn A. Allan) of New York City:

• 1924 Seven Faces

The perfumes of Roger S. Allan of New York City:

• 1900 White Rose
• 1929 Whoopee
• 1929 Celia

The perfumes of Allen Perfumer of Detroit,MA:

• 1920 Vita-Fleurs
• 1924 Ze Paree
• 1927 Prep
• 1932 Lady Allen
• 1936 Lenore Dee

The perfumes of Lucretia Allen of New York City:

• 1934 Bouquet
• 1934 Honeysuckle
• 1934 Wild Rose
• 1934 Violet
• 1936 Blue Bonnet

The perfumes of American Beauty Perfumers of New York City:

• 1926 Comac

The perfumes of American Druggists Syndicate of Long Island,NY:

• 1923 Tijade
• 1923 D'Arline
• 1927 Delectol

The perfumes of American Products Co of Cincinnati,OH:

• 1917 Dream Girl
• 1917 La Bara
• 1930 Faith Avery

The perfumes of American Toilet Goods of Boston,MA:

• 1918 Jardin de Marie
• 1918 Jardin de Rose
• 1918 Jardin de Lilas
• 1922 Bokemia
• 1922 Cape Jasmine
• 1922 Fresh Violet
• 1922 Jickee
• 1922 Kismidir
• 1922 L'Azore
• 1922 pavlow
• 1922 Lucille
• 1922 Rozina

The perfumes of Bonne Bell of Cleveland, Ohio:

• 1927 Coeur de Gardenia
• 1937 Gadabouts
• 1940 English Bluebells
• 1946 Casual
• 1948 The Final Touch

The perfumes of Bell Perfume Co (Samuel M. Fried) of Chicago,IL:

• 1926 Gypsy Queen

The perfumes of Muriel Bell of New York City:

• 1947 Sarouk
• 1947 Anniversary

The perfumes of Bergdorf Goodman of New York City:

• 1927 No. 101
• 1948 Flower Shower
• 1950 Fireworks
• 1955 Nandi

The perfumes of Bergel of Hollywood,CA:

• 1945 Seventh Heaven
• 1945 Seduction

The perfumes of Polly Bergen:

• 1969 Tortue

The perfumes of Bergere of New York City:

• 1943 Follies Bergere
• 1945 Musette
• 1945 Tabarin
• 1946 Liegfeld Follies
• The perfumes of Marian Bialac:
• 1971 Deepwoods Heather
• 1971 Rainforest Fern
• 1971 Weeping Willow

The perfumes of George H. Betts of New York City:

• 1913 Inspiration Violet
• 1915 Glebeas Adoration

The perfumes Best & Co of New York City:

• 1925 Qui M'Aime?

The perfumes of The Bertle Co of New York City:

• 1926 Bertlay

The perfumes of Alfred Berti of New York City:

• 1960 Sobrique
• 1960 Jaser

The perfumes of Betts & Mumpeton of New York City:

• 1924 Finesse

The perfumes of Thomas Biddle of Fort Wayne,IN:

• 1877 Satisfaction Bouquet

The Perfumes of Bija, a USA company:

• 1939 Treasure Chest

The perfumes of Bijan of Beverly Hills,CA:

• 1980 Bijan

The perfumes of Bippus & Breidenbach of Dayton,OH:

• 1892 Empress Josephine
• The perfumes of the Biroto Inc of New York City:
• 1924 Gigolo
• 1926 Debs

The perfumes of Gaston J. Block of New York City:

• 1915 Blasco
• 1918 Cleopatra
• 1929 Wedding Bells
• 1931 Temptation

The perfumes of Bo-Kay of New York City & Jacksonville,FL:

• 1921 Fleur de Glorie
• 1921 My Desire
• 1924 Orange Blossom
• 1924 Peach Blossom
• 1924 Apple Blossom
• 1937 Preview
• 1940 Audace

The perfumes of Harry Bliss of New York City:

• 1930 Mme Duvigne

The perfumes of Bliss Laboratories of New York City:

• 1922 Felix

The perfumes of William Bloom & Co of New York City:

• 1926 South Sea Flowers

The perfumes of Blossom of Brooklyn,NY:

• 1912 Breath of Orchards

The perfumes of Bluekamel of Detroit,MI:

• 1930 Parfum Commiel Faut
• 1933 Carnation
• 1933 Lilac
• 1933 Lily of the Valley
• 1933 Sweet Pea

The perfumes of Edouard of Cleveland,OH:

• 1948 S
• 1948 WS

The perfumes of Duvinne of New York City:

• 1926 Bouquet Duvinne
• 1926 Narcissum
• 1926 Jasmine
• 1926 Gardenia
• 1926 Lilac
• 1926 Orange Blossom
• 1926 Apple Blossom

The perfumes of Eisenberg of Chicago,IL:

• 1938 847 A
• 1938 847 B
• 1941 Startling
• 1942 Stirring
• 1944 Enticing

The perfumes of Elmo of Philadelphia,PA:

• 1923 Rose
• 1926 Sesqui Fleurs
• 1929 Miosotys
• 1937 El Patio
• 1945 Dalliance
• 1945 Going My Way
• 1946 Lord Baltimore
• 1953 Pretty Please
• The perfumes of Mary Dunhill of New York City:
• 1934 Frou Frou de Gardenia
• 1936 Flowers of Devonshire
• 1938 Amulet
• 1941 Bewitching
• 1941 White Hyacinth
• 1943 Escape

The perfumes of De Heriot of Los Angeles, CA:

• 1935 White Lace
• 1939 Gardenia
• 1939 La Premiere
• 1939 Violet
• 1939 Wood Lilac
• 1943 Always in my Heart
• 1943 Pink Line
• 1944 1001 Nights
• 1945 In Person
• 1949 Celebre

The perfumes of Daggett & Ramsdell of Newark,NJ & New York City:

• 1929 Dagelle
• 1937 Sonata
• 1946 Gay Manhattan
• 1946 Mountain Heather
• 1949 Arabesque
• 1949 Debonair
• 1949 Magic Moment
• 1952 Sparkling Gold
• 1952 White Ruffles
• 1953 Personal Choice
• 1956 Debutette
• 1956 French Sonata
• 1957 French Secret
• 1958 Miss Teen
• 1958 Ruffles
• 1960 Debutante International

The perfumes of Dermeties of New York City:

• 1944 Aged Wood
• 1945 1199
• 1945 Reincarnation
• 1946 Academy Award
• 1947 Goddess of Crete
• 1947 Perclogne

The perfumes of D'Artimon of New York City:

• 1943 Clairvoyant
• 1943 Deep Water
• 1943 Fair Weather
• 1943 Muting!
• 1943 Northern Lights
• 1943 Sinbad
• 1943 Stormy Weather
• The perfumes of Jean Ravaud of New York City:
• 1936 Abdication
• 1936 Royal Romance

Tout Mon Jardin Pot Pourri Sachet by Richard Hudnut was launched in 1914.

It was a mixture of various flowers that made up a beautiful potpourri.  It was packed  in a  glass jar with a lovely floral label. The top cap was made of gilded metal and very ornate. There is a front label showing a gold basket with pink and red roses along with some blue and white flowers. The label reads "Tout Mon Jardin Pot Pourri Sachet Richard Hudnut New York Paris". The back of the bottle reads with raised lettering Richard Hudnut New York. Both sides have a raised double circle with an R and a reversed R inside the circles. Sometimes you can find this with a stamp on one side that reads ----"Proprietary United States Internal Revenue Series of 1914 2 ½ cents.".

An advertisement  from 1914 reads:

“Potpourri Sachet is a new creation just out, so fragrant and so nearly akin to the sweetness of the natural blossoms as to establish a charming rivalship. It is the most lasting of all sachets and will perfume the whole house if emptied into a bowl. “

These bottles came in two sizes, 5" tall and 6" tall.

Jovan was established in 1968 by Bernard Mitchell. Manufacturer of a wide range of toiletries and fragrances; became part of Yardley’s in 1985, sold in the mid 1990’s to Coty. Won Fifi design award in 1978 and another in 1980

• 1968 Mink + Pearls 
• 1970 Frankincense and Myrrh
• 1972 Jõvan Musk 
• 1972 Perlune
• 1972 Jõvan Musk for Women 
• 1972 Jõvan Musk Oil 
• 1973 Jõvan Musk for Men (Oil)
• 1973 Jõvan Civet Oil
• 1973 Jõvan Ambergris Oil
• 1973 Jõvan VSP  (very special perfume)
• 1973 Musk for Men 
• 1973 Musk Oil for Men 
• 1973 Jõvan VSP  
• 1974 Jõvan Modern Flower
• 1974 Jõvan Lily of the Valley
• 1974 Jõvan Lilac
• 1974 Jõvan Oriental Flower
• 1974 Jõvan Grass Oil 
• 1974 Jõvan Musk Cologne 
• 1975 Jõvan Ginseng  
• 1975 Jõvan Ginseng for Men  
• 1975 Jõvan Grass Oil  
• 1975 Jõvan Sex Appeal for Men
• 1975 Madame Jõvan 
• 1975 Monsieur Jõvan  
• 1975 Sex Appeal Cologne for Men  
• 1976 Eau Fresh Perfume 
• 1976 Jõvan Floral Essence
• 1976 Jõvan Ginseng for Women 
• 1976 Jõvan Musk for Women 
• 1976 Jõvan Sex Appeal
• 1976 Jõvan Woman  
• 1977 Jõvan Women 
• 1977  Jõvan Man 
• 1978 Jõvan Sport Scents for Men 
• 1978 Jõvan Sport Scents for Women
• 1978 Sex Appeal for Women 
• 1978 Sport Scent for Men 
• 1978 Sport Scent for Women 
• 1979 Man & Woman 
• 1979 Night Blooming Jasmine
• 1979 Touché
• 1981 Andron
• 1981 Andron for Men
• 1981 Andron for Women
• 1981 Mistletoe
• 1981 Sculptura
• 1982 Glacier
• 1982 Island Gardenia
• 1982 Jõvan Andron for Men 
• 1982 Jõvan Andron Women 
• 1983 Gambler
• 1983 Lady Jõvan
• 1983 Misty Tea Rose
• 1984 Pitralon Sport
• 1984 Whisper of Musk
• 1985 Jõvan Evening Musk
• 1985 Jõvan Evening Musk for Men
• 1985 Oriental Lotus
• 1985 Tropical Iris
• 1985 Black Orchid
• 1985 Jõvan Musk Evening Edition 
• 1986 Gambler Musk
• 1988 Lily of the Valley
• 1988 Wild Honeysuckle
• 1990 Jõvan White Musk for Women
• 1992 Jõvan White Musk for Men
• 1996 Jõvan Fresh Musk
• 1998 Ginseng N.R.G.
• 1999 Jõvan Bodytonic Energizing
• 1999 Jõvan Bodytonic Refreshing
• 1999 Jõvan Bodytonic Soothing
• 2000 Jõvan Individuality Earth
• 2000 Jõvan Individuality Fire
• 2000 Jõvan Individuality Water
• 2004 Fired Up
• 2004 Heat Man 
• 2004 Hot Bod Musk
• 2004 Jõvan Heat Man - Fired Up
• 2004 Jovan Heat Man - Hot Bod Musk
• Adidas  
• Fresh Patchouli
• Lady Cologne Concentrate
• Pagan 
• Victorian Corsage 
• Whisper Cologne 

Marie Richelieu established a perfume business around 1933 in New York City.

Her Perfume Odesant, a perfumed deodorant came in twelve different fragrances. She suggested to wear certain perfumes with her perfumed deodorants. Wear her Nikki with Guerlain's Shalimar, Curtain Call with Caron's Nuit de Noel, Tanzy with Lentheric's Tweed, and Black Jade with Lanvin's My Sin.

The perfumes of Marie Richelieu:

• 1933 Tete-A-Tete
• 1933 Cardinal
• 1933 Gardenia
• 1933 Or Leay
• 1933 Humoresque
• 1941 Black Jade
• 1941 Curtain Call
• 1941 Deceit
• 1941 Saddle Bow
• 1941 Sand & Spray
• 1941 Perfume Odesant, a perfumed deodorant
• 1942 Nikki
  
• 1942 Tansy
• 1944 Duk-Duk
• 1944 Pink Lilac

Anne Klein II was launched in 1984, by Anne Klein, wife of designer Calvin Klein, in association with Parlux.  .

Anne Klein II, a green oriental parfum, was a follow up to her original signature fragrance, Anne Klein, a floral parfum, also launched in 1984. Anne Klein also released Blazer in 1976, a popular fragrance.

Anne Klein is described as a floral fragrance with top notes of bergamot, hyacinth and mandarin, heart notes of jasmine, Bulgarian rose and ylang-ylang on base notes of vetiver, sandalwood and musk. Fragrance discontinued in the early 1990s

Anne Klein II is described as a soft fresh green oriental floral parfum with top notes of spices, orange flower, peach and apricot, heart notes of lilies, jasmine, tangerine flowers on base notes of vanilla, opoponax, civet, oak moss and precious woods.  Presented in glass designed by Pierre Dinand. Discontinued in the early 1990s

Franco-American Hygenic Company of Chicago,Il.  

The perfumes of the Franco-American Hygenic Co:

• 1911 Dearest
• 1919 Carnation
• 1919 Danzone
• 1919 Fascination
• 1919 Frangipani
• 1919 Heliotrope
• 1919 Hyacinth
• 1919 Jasmin
• 1919 Jickey
• 1919 Jockey Club
• 1919 Lilac
• 1919 Rose Geranium
• 1919 Sweet Pea
• 1919 Rose
• 1919 Wild Arbutus
• 1919 New Mown Hay
• 1919 Violette
• 1919 Crab Apple
• 1919 Opalescent Perfumes
  
• 1919 Patrician Perfumes
• 1919 American Beauty Rose
• 1922 Franco Toilet Water
• 1922 Hygrade
• 1922 Inspirate
• 1922 La Joie
• 1922 Patrician
• 1922 Persian Garden
• 1922 Sandalon
• 1924 Gai
• 1924 Vive
• Atlantis

Remiller Perfumes was launched around 1915 in Paris. They also had a branch in New York City.

The perfumes of Remiller:

• 1915 Vernice
• 1915 Bandolin
• 1916 Leone
• 1919 Fan Tan
• 1920 Orange Blossom
• 1922 Mirimbi Lily
• 1922 Basket of Roses
• 1922 Billet Doux
• 1922 Mon Tresor
• 1922 Varna
• 1922 Grecian Rose
• 1923 Fleurs Joyeuse
• 1923 Narce
• 1923 Mirimbi Lily
• 1923 Lorina
• 1925 Red Feather
• 1925 Varia
• 1926 Persian Rose
• 1926 Rose O'May

Established by John Blocki; of Polish descent (1845 to 1934) of Chicago Illinois;mrenamed in 1895 and then changed name again to John Blocki Inc., launched a range of fragrances. The company produced perfumes, toilet waters, cosmetics, face creams and powders.

The perfumes of John Blocki & Son:

• 1907 Flower-in-a-Bottle
• 1908 Bouquet Mary Tudor
• 1908 Bouquet Helena Modjeska
• 1908 Bouquet Poniatowski
• 1908 Bouquet Pulaski
• 1908 Bouquet Sobieski
• 1908 Bouquet Kosciusko
• 1908 Bouquet Carmen
• 1908 Bouquet Curzon
• 1908 Gloire de Dijon Rose
• 1908 Maid of Honour Rose
• 1908 Queen Louise
• 1908 Senstation
• 1908 Thisbé
• 1908 San Rovia
• 1908 Fairy Rose
• 1908 Geisha Lily
• 1908 Geisha Rose
• 1908 Geisha Queen
• 1908 Liberty Rose
• 1908 Pearl of Persia
• 1908 Queen of Scots
• 1908 Regal Carnation Pink
• 1908 Regal Clover Blossom
• 1908 Regal Frangipanni
• 1908 Regal Heliotrope
• 1908 Regal Jockey Club
• 1908 Regal Lilac
• 1908 Regal Lily of Luzon
• 1908 Regal Lily of the Valley
• 1908 Regal Peau de Espagne
• 1908 Regal Violette
• 1908 Regal White Rose
• 1908 Rose Petals
• 1908 Superba
• 1908 Sweet of Araby
• 1908 Uno
• 1911 Thais
  
• 1916 Esprit d'Amour
• 1920 Lilies
• 1920 Empress Lily
• 1920 Empress Narcissus
• 1920 Empress Rose
• 1920 Empress Sweet Pea
• 1920 Empress Violette
• 1920 Orange Petals
• 1920 Unique
• 1922 American Belle Rose
• 1922 Blocki’s Ideal
• 1922 Ollantay
• 1935 Rose
• 1935 Lilac
• 1935 Violet
• 1935 Sweet Pea
• 1935 Carnation
• 1935 Orange Blossom
• 1935 Lily of the Valley

The Ravel Perfume Corp was established in Nice, France and had an branch in New York City.

The perfumes of Ravel:

• 1945 Adagio
• 1945 Pagan
• 1945 Pagoda
• 1945 Faun
• 1950 Caprichio
• 1950 Ecstasy
• 1950 Feuilles d'Automne
• 1950 Gai Printemps
• 1950 Heure Mauve
• 1950 Majeste
• 1950 Troubador
• 1953 Bolero
• 1955 L'Amour En Rose
• 1955 My Fair Lady
• 1955 Moments-De-Passion
• 1956 No. 6
• 1956 No. 9
• 1965 Green Jade for Men
• Ravel Cologne for Men

In the 1930s and into the 1940s, a fascination with all things early American were showing up in various forms, from reproduction maple furniture to hand blown glassware, and perfume companies jumped on the bandwagon eager to take in the benefit of the fads.

Old South of Batavia, Illinois,  a subsidiary of Campana Sales, came out with a line of  toiletries in 1940,  inspired by the plantations of Williamsburg, Virginia.The perfumes were based on old fashioned favorites from the Colonial era. the tag line was "Romance..Southern Style".

The toiletry line consisted of cologne, toilet water, perfume, soaps,sachets, bubble bath, rose jars (potpourri), bath salts, talcum and bath powders. They were wrapped in exquisitely fine containers that were reminiscent of the culture that belonged to Williamsburg.

The perfumes came in charming hobnail bottles that they advertised may have graced the table of a Colonial lady. The bubble bath essences came in crystal styled bottles. The soap and sachets were wrapped in paper printed with the pinkest roses and the talcum and bath powders came in lovely containers delicately decorated with frail ladies in pink and blue gowns.

These items were packaged in lovely gift boxes. For instance, there's The Plantation Box which contained a hobnail bottle of toilet water and a round container of dusting powder. Both came on a bed of shredded pink paper in an eight cornered box that may be used later to hold jewelry.

The Virginia Reel Trio gift box held three cologne decanter jugs of Plantation Garden, Cotton Blossom and Woodland Spice. Each sat in a little depressed plinth which would have been covered with a round cylinder case decorated with dancing couples.

The Memory Box gift set held a decanter jug of cologne, sachet, talc and guest soap all housed inside a rose trellised box with a Plantation Lawn Party scene on the cover.

The Basket gift set included a decanter jug of cologne, sachet pillow, talc and soap inside a hand made basket.

The Duet Gift box held a charming box of dusting powder and a jug of cologne. The cover f the box featured a courting scene of a gentleman and his sweetheart. 

The Old South Romance Box held a large decanter jug of cologne, sugar shaker of talc, sachet and guest soap, all elegant housed in an oval box decorated with a whimsical bridal scene on the lid and an Old Fashioned marriage certificate inside the cover.

The Clock Box was a gift set replica of an old fashioned mantle clock, the "works" are a jug of cologne, anotehr of bubbling bath essence, and a big cake of perfumed bath soap.

Other gift boxes were titled the Charleston box, the Quilt box and the Sweetheart box

The Treasure Chest gift box contained soap, sachet, a little hobnail bottle of toilet water and a pretty slender container of talcum powder, all inside a green edged white box decorated with a pink lady and many flowers, the lid opened to disclose a message "In this bouquet from friendship's garden, pink betokens pure love, violet betokens modesty, rose betokens majesty and love".

The language of flowers was further stressed on tiny booklets tied to bottle necks and bath salts containers. "Primrose betokens early youth, heliotrope betokens admiration, jasmine betokens amiability", this and more were told in the booklets.

Four colognes called Woodland Spice, Cotton Blossom, Old Fashioned Bouquet  and Plantation Garden were available in various quaint  bottles.  They were meant to recapture the coquetry of Southern belles, the romance of moss-filtered moonlight. The Decanter Jug, was a hand blown replica of imported Waterford glass. The Violin Bottle was a delicately molded replica of old American glassware.

The Old South toiletries ceased production around 1948-1950.

Virginia Reel presentation box.

Dermay Perfumes Inc. was an American company established by Jerome Baum at 347 Fifth Avenue, New York City. They sold bath salts, perfumes, toilet waters, face powder, talcum, bath and dusting powders,  manicure sets and soaps.

The company was associated with Cartier & Lucien.

Dermay is best known for their Art Deco Depression glass and compotes that held their bath powders and bath salts as well as their gorgeous satin glass perfume bottles. Their items were made by Taussaunt Glass and Tiffin.

The perfumes of Dermay Perfumers::

• 1926 Cartier
• 1926 Les Parfums Lucien
• 1927 Bath Flowers
• 1928 Fete de Coeur
• 1934 Honeysuckles
• 1934 Nuit d'Extase
• 1936 Charing
• 1937 Pagliacci
• 1938 Warwick Lavender

(1893 to 1990) French-born, US-based milliner at 76 East 56th Street New York; married the perfumer Jean Desprez in 1931.

In 1940, Lilly Dache introduced perfumed millinery in assciation with Coty Parfums. Hats whose linings and and headbands are impregnated with sachet in the wearer's favorite Coty scent, Emeraude, Styx, L'Origan, Chypre and L'Aimant.

Lilly Dache worked closely with Coty at times as well as becoming president of one of Coty Inc's, divisions in 1954. It included  Lucien Lelong perfumes, Marie Earle cosmetics and Lilly Dache's own perfume and hair products company.

and  they may have created the perfumes for her. 

The perfumes of Lilly Dache of New York City:

• 1941 Drifting
• 1941 Dashing
• 1944 Fan-Freluches
• 1945 Because
• 1953 Drifing Night and Day Fragrances
• 1953 Dashing Night and Day fragrances
• 1962 Dachelle

Photo by Rago Arts & Auction Center. Other photos from Worthpoint.

According to a 1932 newspaper ad, Deltah's perfumes were created exclusively for them to be sold in exquisite jewelry displays next to their precious stones in only in the finest jewelry stores. So they were expensively bottled in imaginative shapes  - faceted to sparkle even among diamonds and pearls. The O.A. Hesla Company was the sole distributor of the perfumes. The perfumes were created  as "personality scents" to express the eight most dominant of feminine types.

Mon Bijou (My Jewel) -  a delicate scent whose sweetness lingers like the perfume of a newly opened flower...to accent the radiant loveliest of the woman of elusive charm whose personality is always changing and whose spirit is always young.

L'Heure de Minuit (Midnight Hour) - whispering of an amourous rendezvous, this seductive Oriental scent as bewitching as a moonlight night. .. for the exotic whose romantic temperament colors her life with magic beauty.

Une Senteur de Deltah (Deltah's own fragrance) - the mingled sweetness of many wild flowers distilled into this enchanting fragrance, limpid, indefinable, intoxicating. For the dreamy woman of many moods whose placid seriousness covers an exquisitively poetic soul.

Ecstasy - all the irresistible fervor of youth caught in the passion  of spring is captured in this lovely scent...for the impulsive woman whose bubbling gaiety and joie de vivre keep her eternally girlish.  She is sometimes delicately blond, but most often brunette.

Chez Elle de Deltah (intimacy) - a haunting fragrance from the essence of moon kissed blossoms, exquisite as a love song. For a more reserved, mature woman, simple and unaffected as a girl who needs just a breath of this mystic scent to color her quiet loveliness.

Gardenia - sensuous, yet secretly perceptible, is gardenia's perfume, suggesting the fleeting loveliness of the rich white gardenia blossom. A captivating scent for the energetic, active woman who radiates vitality and self assurance.

Jasmine - like Oriental incense,  is the penetrating pungency of jasmine - the flower of romance...to emphasize the youthful sophistication of the typical "young modern"  whose versatile personality makes her a splendid sportswoman and an understanding deeply feminine woman.

Magnolia - a fresh, clean scent, redolent with the ravishing perfume of sun drenched magnolia blossoms, a delightful daytime fragrance. To accent the buoyancy of the modern outdoor woman. whose wholesomeness is refreshing as spring.

Apparently the jewelers were unsuccessful in selling the perfumes so the department store Gimbels bought out the remaining stock.  Deltah's perfumes were sold until around 1945 or so.

The perfumes of Deltah:

• 1931 Numero 7 Gardenia
• 1931 Numero 7 Magnolia
• 1931 Numero 7 Jasmine
• 1931 Mon Bijou
• 1931 Ecstasy de Deltah
• 1931 Midnight Hour/L'Heure de Minuit
• 1931 Une Senteur
• 1931 Chez Elle de Deltah
• 1934 L'Ambassadeur
• 1934 Rendezvous

L'Heure de Minuit by Deltah c1930s

AP Babcock of New York City. I probably don't have every single fragrance listed, so if I missed one, please let me know.

The perfumes of AP Babcock:

• 1899 Queen Cologne
• 1901 Wood Violet 
• 1901 White Lilac 
• 1901 Cut Rose 
• 1901 Vogue
• 1902 Honeysuckle
• 1908 Black Prince
• 1908 Florabel
• 1908 Hinoki
• 1908 Mercedes
• 1908 Purple Lilac
• 1908 Stephanotis
• 1908 Vraie Violet
• 1908 Coast Violets
• 1908 Double Pink
• 1908 Hermosa
• 1908 Japanese Motiya
• 1908 Manhattan Violet
• 1908 Myosotis
• 1908 Pine Needle
• 1908 Rejane
• 1908 Ruby Hyacinth
• 1908 Santo Cutis
• 1908 Sicilian Violet
• 1908 Utilis Cologne
• 1910 Corylopsis
• 1910 Russian Violet
• 1910 Golden Gate Fresh Violets
• 1910 Golden Gate Japonica
• 1910 Golden Gate Rose
• 1913 Muguet
• 1920 Love Petals
• 1920 Violet Elise
• 1920 La Romance
• 1920 Blue Jasmine
• 1920 Butterfly
• 1922 Acme
• 1922 Corylopsis of Japan
• 1922 Cho Cho San
• 1922 Cut Roses
• 1922 Flower of Savoy
• 1922 Prettiest
• 1923 Tip Tap
• 1925 Cigarette
• 1925 Superfumes
• 1925 Narcissus
  
• 1926 Lady Nicotine
• 1926 Black Bottom
• 1926 La Bud Parisienne
• 1928 We Moderns
• 1928 Romany
• 1930 This
• 1930 Eventide
• 1930 Noon
• 1930 Morn
• 1930 Camille
• 1930 Eunedus
• 1930s Lore
• 1931 Numerology
• 1934 Ann Hathaway
• 1934 Gardenia
• 1934 Jasmin
• 1936 Ma Cheri
• 1936 Eau de Cologne
• 1963 Lilac
• Boston Man

Established by Carle Armand in Des Moines, Iowa; launched range of fragrances c1920 to 1950; also launched fragrances under Carle Inc in 1930 and 1931. Also known as Armour of Chicago, Illinois; launched a range of fragrances in the 1920's; Luxor a subsidiary, also affiliated with Krasny.

The perfumes of the Armand Co:

• 1909 Bouquet Armour
• 1919 Roses of Paradise
• 1919 Perfume of Fresh Roses
• 1919 Azalea of Armandes
• 1920 Armand's Bouquet
• 1923 Peridore
• 1923 Mad Cap
• 1923 Ambre Royale
• 1924 Pearls in Wine
• 1926 Taquine
• 1926 Eau de Cologne
• 1927 Beau K
• 1930 Gardenia
• 1930 Lilac
• 1930 Lily of the Valley
• 1930 Sweet Pea
• 1930 Narcissus
• 1930 Carnation
• 1933 Old Colonial
• 1934 Symphonie
• 1935 Interlude
• 1946 Too Lovely For Words
• Evening Star

The perfumes of Armour & Co:

• 1900 Royal Flower Bouquet
• 1907 Liberty
• 1909 Lilac
• 1909 Sinbad Turkish Bath soap
• 1909 Violet
• 1909 Bouquet Armour
• 1918 Venetian bath soap
• 1919 Bouquet Glycerine
• 1920 La Richesse
• 1920 Mayflair
• 1922 Floriana
• 1922 Karnak
• 1922 Luxor

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes produced by Blanchard of New York City.

The perfumes of Blanchard:

• 1932 Gardenia
• 1936 Plaid
• 1943 Intrepid
• 1943 Jealousy
• 1945 Climax
• 1945 Conflict
• 1945 Intrigue
• 1949 Evening Star
• 1950 Evening Star Bouquet Concentrate
• 1950 Jealousy Bouquet Concentrate
• 1950 Conflict Bouquet Concentrate
• 1950 Intrigue Bouquet Concentrate
• 1954 Evening Star Eau de Parfum Spray
• 1954 Jealousy Eau de Parfum Spray
• 1954 Intrigue Eau de Parfum Spray
• 1954 Conflict Eau de Parfum Spray

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by Lander of New York City. Lander produced various toiletries, bath items,dusting powders,  toilet waters, colognes and perfumes. Occasionally you will come across Lander's talcum powder tins, these are usually beautifully decorated with full color lithography and look great amongst your perfumes and vanity stuff.

The Perfumes of Lander:

• 1917 Pixie, reintroduced in 1954
• 1935 Movie Star
• 1937 Dorothy Deanne
• 1937 Dorothy Reed
• 1939 Romantic Days
• 1940 Black Orchid
• 1942 Pink Petal
• 1942 Black Panther, reintroduced in 1962
• 1943 Cave Man
• 1943 Forbidden Secret
• 1943 Stolen Secret
• 1943 Untamed Perfume
• 1943 Tiki
• 1947 Golden Apple Blossom
• 1947 Golden Corsage
• 1947 Golden Gardenia
• 1948 Lilac Cologne
• 1948 Clover Cologne
• 1948 Spice Cologne
• 1948 Emily Page
• 1950 Samezi-Soir
• 1973 Tally Ho for men

Spicy Apple Blossom c1940s

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes produced by John Wanamaker of Philadelphia, PA. In addition to selling the world's most famous commercial perfumes, the department store giant had perfumes sold under his own name as well.

Inside the New York store, in 1910, Wanamaker installed a French perfume house who sold them exclusively in John Wanamaker's stores. The company was called Parfumerie Claire and had issued four fragrances: Ge-Ge, Bouquet d'Armemonville, Violette de Paris and Yu-Yu. Violette de Paris was by far their best selling fragrance. Parfumerie Claire also sold French powders and puffs, perfumes, sachets and toilet waters.

A 1912 advertisement for the Claire Parfumerie 's perfume describes them as such:

• Ge-Ge with the perfume of the gardenia
• Bouquet d'Armenonville a whole garden full of fragrance
• Violette de Paris the unmatchable fragrance of sweet violets
• Yu-Yu - subtle, curious, almost oriental

In 1929, Wanamaker sued a different company, called Claire Parfumer Inc. for copyright infringement because his perfume company was called Claire Parfumerie.

These perfumes are very hard to find nowadays and command a small premium due to their scarcity. The Wilmington store even had a perfume filled "dancing water fountain". When it was in use, the Dancing Waters (TM) Enchanted Fountain system used 3000 gallons of water. There was really no tank for the water. Rather, a heavy rubber sheet was placed in the balcony orchestra pit. It is fortunate that that sheet never developed any leaks in its long history of use. Restoration of the accompanying Fountain-and-Colored-Light Show on the balcony in front of the Organ case is not being considered at present because a redesign would be needed to protect the Organ and low-lying light and plug-in power strips that illuminate the case. Also Macy’s new Christmas tree is wider than its predecessor. The fountain show became too old to be used and was discontinued around the turn of the present century.

"ALFRED Stuart is probably the moat

lasting of all the agreeable perfumes; none of

the foreign ones approach it-- It is very rich,

strong and full of life; it is agreeable to more

persons," probablv, than any other perfume.

Wild Olive is next in popularity : this also

is singularly powerful and lasting. White

Rose; Is delicate and lasting.

We keep the odors of all the flrst--

class producers, such as Lubin. Isabey, Atkin- -

son and Coudray.

Bring a handkerchief; and

you shall receive a sample of any odor you wish."

 The perfumes of John Wanamaker:

• 1881 The Queen Mary (a line)
• 1883 Cartwright
• 1910 Claire (a line)
• 1910 Fleur D'Or
• 1910 Oree
• 1910 Ariane
• 1910 Bouquet d'Armenonville
• 1910 Reine Marie
• 1910 Violette de Paris
• 1910 Yu Yu
• 1917 Charme d'Amour
• 1921 Fleurs Celeste
• 1923 Le Beau Narcisse
• 1923 Papillion
• 1923 Red Leaf English Lavender
• 1923 Coin de Paris
• 1925 Violette de Paris ( a line)
• 1926 C'est Paris
• 1926 No. 5
• 1926 La Cocquette
• 1927 Mayfair Tudor Rose
• 1930 Bouquet de Orient
• 1932 Phytallia
• 1935 Carnation
• 1935 Gardenia
• 1935 Geranium
• 1935 Lily of the Valley
• 1935 Sandalwood
• 1935 Verveine
• 1935 Lotus of Luxor
• 1935 Lido
• 1935 Melisande
• 1935 Heures d’Absence
  
• 1935 Tribout
• 1935 Fleur de Lis
• 1946 C’est Paris

John Wanamaker also had a secondary perfume company called Wahna, that also sold Wahma Wonderful Cold Cream, Wahna Skin Cream, Wahna Directoire Extract, Wahna Directoire Water, Creme Wahna. Here are the perfumes sold under the Wahna name:

• 1909 Ma Mie
• 1909 Eau de Cologne
• 1909 Melisande (trademarked filed in 1921 for the name)
• 1909 Fleur de Lis