CLEOPATRA'S BOUDOIR

"Perfume is a love affair with one's self. It is one of the few gifts that, though personal, can be generously shared."

Vintage Perfume/Beauty Blog

Roger Thirion et Cie. Perfumes

Posted on December 28, 2011 at 9:45 PM Comments comments (0)

Roger Thirion et Cie. Perfumes  was located in Paris, they launched fragrances in 1925. Stendhal was a French cosmetic brand which was founded in 1946 by Roger Thirion.


The perfumes of Roger Thirion et Cie:

  • 1925 Origan
  • 1925 Ambrodor
  • 1925  Chypre Royal
  • 1925 Mon Reve
  • 1925 Splendor
  • 1925 Tres Bien
  • 1925 Tango
  • 1925 Heliotrope
  • 1925 Nardo

Cheramy Perfumes

Posted on March 13, 2011 at 8:17 PM Comments comments (0)

 

Chermany was located at 19 rue Cambon in Paris. The company was established by Raymond Couin in 1921. The business was sold to Houbigant in 1922, and became division producing lower-priced products, primarily for US market. Received prize at the Paris EXhibition in 1925. 

The Perfumes of Cheramy:

 

  • 1921 Cadore
  • 1921 Girly Girl
  • 1921 Myo-San
  • 1921 Cor D'Or
  • 1921 Lov-Lor
  • 1921 Frolic
  • 1921 April Showers
  • 1921 Pal
  • 1921 Fifth Avenue
  • 1921 Cappi
  • 1923 Pour le Theatre
  • 1924 Chansonette
  • 1924 Nuee-D'Or
  • 1924 Joli Soir
  • 1924 Lido
  • 1924 Fausta
  • 1925 Ciel Bleu
  • 1925 Lido-Venice
  • 1925 Festival
  • 1926 Compliment
  • 1926 Ketty
  • 1927 Biarritz
  • 1928 Blue Skies
  • 1928 Dulcia
  • 1929 Parfait Amour
  • 1929 Premiers Beaux Jours
  • 1930 Un Beau Dimanche
  • 1933 May Flowers
  • 1935 Cordon Bleu
  • 1939 Carnation
  • 1950 Keep Cool
  • 1954 Festival, reintroduced
  • 1960 Espace
  • 1969 Dedicace


Worth Perfumes

Posted on March 13, 2011 at 8:09 PM Comments comments (1)

 

Worth was a couture house located at 7 rue de la Paix, Paris. It was established in 1858 by Charles Frederick Worth . He was born in 1826 and trained in England. Soon began designing dresses for his wife, and the admiration of others caused Worth to open a fashion department iin a fabric store where he worked after 1846. He became a successful couturier, designing for Empress Eugenie and other European royalty. Frederick died in 1895 but he company remained a family business  and introduced perfumes in 1924, where they employed Lalique to design all perfume flacons. The company was sold in 1946, and all the salons were closed by 1954.


The Perfumes of the House of Worth:

 

  • 1924 Dans la Nuit
  • 1925 Vers le Jour
  • 1929 Sans Adieu
  • 1929 Fleurs Parisiennes : Oeillet
  • 1929 Fleurs Parisiennes : Jasmin
  • 1929 Fleurs Parisiennes : Rose
  • 1929 Fleurs Parisiennes : Lilas
  • 1929 Fleurs Parisiennes : Gardénia
  • 1929 Fleurs Parisiennes : Honeysuckle
  • 1932 Je Reviens
  • 1934 Vers Toi
  • 1935 Projet (Clear Sailing for USA)
  • 1938 Imprudence
  • 1943 Spotlight
  • 1945 Requête
  • 1948 Eau de Cologne Naturelle
  • 1948 Cologne Chest
  • 1969 Monsieur Worth
  • 1973 Fleurs Fraîches
  • 1977 Miss Worth
  • 1981 Worth pour Homme
  • 1995 Sans Adieu


J. Delcroix & Co. Perfumes

Posted on March 9, 2011 at 9:03 PM Comments comments (0)

 

J Delcroix & Co of No. 158, New Bond Street London, had a perfume manufactory in Grasse, France at Department du Var. Established around 1820. Perfumer to His Majesty George IV

 

  • 1832: Esprit de Lavande aux Millefleurs
  • 1832: Eau de Camelia et Vitiver
  • 1832: Bouquet du Roi
  • 1832: Bouquet Militaire
  • 1832: Bouquet Britannique
  • 1832: Bouquet des Dames
  • 1832: Bouquet d’Amandier
  • 1832: Bouquet de Vervaine
  • 1832: Eau de Toilette
  • 1832: Vegetable Essence
  • 1832 Esprit de Rose
  • 1832: Esprit Volatil de Vinaigre a la Rose
  • 1832: Eau de Serail
  • 1859 Jenny Lind Bouquet
  • 1860 Rondeletia


Balmain Perfumes

Posted on June 1, 2010 at 2:18 PM Comments comments (1)

 

 

Pierre Balmain was born in Aix-les-Bains, Savoie, France on May 18, 1914. He later attended Grenoble University and after moving to Paris, he studied architecture and design at the Ecole des Beaux Arts.


Balmain's career began when he sold three of his designs to Robert Piguet. In 1934, he took a part time job with Captain Molyneux, who encouraged him to pursue a fashion career, and remained employed with Molyneux until 1939 Then for Lucien Lelong. 


World War II stepped in and Balmain served in the army for two years, after which he returned to Paris and accepted a position with Christian Dior, which lasted more than four years. 


In 1945, Balmain opened his couture house, Maison Balmain at 44 rue Francois I er in Paris. His collections were an immediate success and he acquired a very wealthy and titled clientele such as Eva Peron, the Queen of Thailand, the Empress of Japan, Katherine Hepburn, Vivien Leigh and Marlene Dietrich.


. Balmain was credited by many as the innovator of "The New Look" and his designs were noted for their shapely silhouettes as well as their elegance and wearability.


Before he died in 1982, Balmain was decorated many times, he was made a Chevalier Legoin d'Hennoeur in 1962, received the Medaille Vermeil of the City of Paris in 1965 and in 1978,he became an officer f the Legion of Honour.


Balmain entered into the perfume industry in 1946 with the introduction of Elysées 64 83. He created fragrances to express his romantic vision of women and elegance.


Perfume business bought by Revlon in 1960. In 1982 the company was sold on and since 1991has been owned by Erich Fayer. However the company filed for bankruptcy protection in 2004, currently attempting a comeback under Creative Director Christophe Decarnin.


His advertisements were illustrated by the artist, Rene Gruau.


 

The Perfumes of Balmain:

 

  • 1946 Elysees 64-83
  • 1947 Vent Vert
  • 1953 Jolie Madame
  • 1964 Monsieur Balmain
  • 1967 Miss Balmain
  • 1980 Ivoire
  • 1998 Balmain
  • 2000 Eau d'Ivoire
  • 2002 Balmya

The perfumes:



Vent Vert: One of the first fresh, green notes. Vent Vert was a trendsetting fragrance in 1947 and represented the forests and ferns of France . Its unique composition of jonquil, lily of the valley, narcissus and rose.


Jolie Madame: his was the name of Balmain's fashion collection, and the perfume was first presented in 1953, is a leathery, floral perfume, with dominant notes of jasmine, rose de mai,tuberose and the wild essences of neroli laced with subtle spice and woody notes. This fragrance came in perfume, cologne and eau de toilette.






Societe La France Perfumes

Posted on May 28, 2010 at 11:38 AM Comments comments (0)

Societe La France Toilet Goods company, Inc. also known as La France Laboratories , a perfumery, launched a range of fragrances and matching face powders in the 1920s. The company was associated with Parfumerie Saint Cyr, established by milliner Claude Saint Cyr in France.



In 1929, the Stein Cosmetics company purchased the capital stock and assets. The Stein company also controlled five other units, M. Stein Cosmetics Co., Alexander Laboratory. Inc., Synthesa Laboratories and Kaya, Inc


The perfumes of Societe La France:

  • 1924 Ambre
  • 1924 Narcisse
  • 1924 Jasmine
  • 1924 Chypre
  • 1924 Rose
  • 1924 Lilac
  • 1925 Fond Memories
  • 1926 Springtime

Raphael Perfumes

Posted on May 26, 2010 at 11:45 AM Comments comments (0)

 

 

Established by Raphaël Lopez at 3 avenue George V, Paris in 1930.


Signature fragrance 'Réplique' launched in 1936 in France, and in the USA in 1946.


The Raphael logo was designed by Marty.


The perfumes were distributed in US in 1952 by Charles J. Oppenheim Jr., chairman of Jay Thorpe Inc. who headed Parfums Marcy.



The Perfumes of Raphael:

 

 

  • 1936 Replique
  • 1944 Cynique
  • 1944 Feu De Paille
  • 1946 Volontiers
  • 1947 Tubéreuse
  • 1953 Demon
  • 1953 Raph
  • 1956 Plaisir
  • 1957 Whisky
  • Fornarina
  • R
  • Raphaël for Men
  • Raphaël

 


Lesourd Pivert Toiletries and Perfume

Posted on May 23, 2010 at 12:27 AM Comments comments (1)

 

In this guide I have listed the various toiletries and perfumes by Lesourd Pivert of Paris.

 

Lesourd Pivert was established in 1876 and sold perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics at their shop at 24 rue Albouy, Paris.

 

**finding information on this company was next to nil. If you have anything to contribute to the page, please let me know. Thanks!

 

The following are advertisements from a 1908 Sears & Roebuck Catalog:

 

"Myrka Powder. We have made arrangements whereby we can furnish you the world famous Imported Myrka Powder. A veryfine and highly appreciated powder, and very delicately perfumed. Ingredients are harmless and chemically pure. Stands unquestioned as one of the finest and best powders for constant use. Gives that velvet softness to the skin so much admired by all. Comes in three colors: white, flesh and brunette. Be sure to state the shade wanted.Our price: $.033."

 

"Satinette Face Powder.This Imported face powder is made by one of the best perfumers in Paris France. It is manufactured from the very finest sifted rice flour and delightfully perfumed. Absolutely guaranteed free from any harmful ingredients. It is a very popular powder and is the genuine imported article. Furnished in three shades: white, flesh and brunette. Be sure to state which shade wanted. Our Price: $0.25"

 

"Trefle Complexion Powder. This highly praised and largely used Parisian Powder is imported by us, enabling our customers to obtain the powder so much used abroad. It is composed of the purest ingredients, very sweetly perfumed and is a powder that will give absolute satisfaction. Comes in three shades: white, flesh and brunette. Be sure to state which shade wanted. Our price: $0.21"


 

The perfumes of Lesourd-Pivert:

 

  • 1920s Fleurs de Paris
  • Aurélia
  • Aux Trois Fleurs
  • 1950s Oeillet


La Dore Perfumes

Posted on May 23, 2010 at 12:22 AM Comments comments (0)

 

In this guide I will introduce you to the perfumes presented by La Dore. The company was situated in Paris, France and in Chicago.

 

I was able to cull most of my info from the 1908 Sears & Roebuck catalog. Some of their advertisements read:

 

"La Dore Imported Perfumes. The La Dore line of perfumes is manufactured by one of America's best perfumers and is the same grade of perfume retailed at 50 cents and 60 cents per ounce in bulk at retail drug stores. Th odors are all sweet, delicate and lasting. Beautiful 1 and 2 ounce glass stoppered bottles as shown in illustrations. Each bottle is neatly capped with fine kid and tied with fancy ribbon, and makes a very neat and pretty appearance.While this line of perfume is exceptionally fine value for the price quoted, it can in no way compare with our higher priced perfumes. One ounce bottle - $0.35. For a two ounce bottle - $0.55."

 

"La Dore Ruby Salve. Ruby Salve is a refined and harmless rouge prepared in the form of a cream for tinting the cheeks, lips and fingers, leaves a perfectly natural stain or glow abd can never be detected. The majority of ladies prefer rouge in this form, as it is put up in a very convenient manner and easily applied. Our price- $0.17."

 

"La Dore Crystal Shampoo Jelly. Removes dandruff, leaves the hair soft and keeps the scalp in a healthy condition; produces the finest foam, is the most economical shampoo abd is excellent as a cleanser. Our price $0.24"

 

The perfumes of La Dore:

 

  • 1908 Violet
  • 1908 White Rose
  • 1908 Carnation
  • 1908 Heliotrope
  • 1908 Crabapple
  • 1908 Lily of the Valley
  • 1908 Jockey Club
  • 1908 Narcissus
  • 1908 Trailing Arbutus

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Jacques Fath Perfumes

Posted on May 22, 2010 at 6:56 PM Comments comments (0)

 

In this guide I have listed the various perfumes produced by Jacques Fath of Bois France & Paris France.

 

The Jacques Fath couture house opened its doors in 1937 and introduced perfumes in 1945, it closed in 1957. I am sure there are more perfumes to be found, if I left one out, let me know.

 

The perfumes of Jacques Fath:

 

  • 1926 Green Water, reissued in 1953
  • 1945 Chasuble
  • 1946 Iris Gris
  • 1950 Canasta
  • 1953 Fath de Fath
  • 1968 Fath's Love
  • 1977 Expression

Iris Gris. Photo from a 2007 ebay auction

Bichara Perfumes

Posted on May 22, 2010 at 4:49 PM Comments comments (0)

 In this guide I have listed the various perfumes presented by Bichara of 10 rue de la Chausse-d'Antin, Paris France.



 

The Bichara perfume company was established in 1896 by Bichara Malhame (from Beirut), who styled himself as "The Syrian Perfumer". The company was first located in Rouen and Dieppe. His perfumes were advertised as "parfums enivrants" (intoxicating perfumes).

 

The hair dye "Extrait de Henne Bichara" of 1899 was so successful that it financed the introduction of luxury perfumes. Bichara maintained that luxury image through it's shop and constant exposure in the French press. It was advertised as "Allah est grand et Bichara est son parfumeur" (Allah is good and Bichara is his perfumer"). Bichara also produced fine hennas for the hair, Le Henne Bichara, and kohl eye makeup called Mokoheul, this eye cosmetic was probably introduced in 1913 and stayed very popular into the 1920s. Another eye cosmetic was Cillana which I found reference in a 1913 ad. These two eye cosmetics were advertised as for "charme, beaute, sante des yeux", (charm , beauty and eye health). Eau des Roses Syrie was a skin brightener which also freshened the skin.

 



Around the turn of the century, the company became immensely successful with Sarah Bernhardt as his muse, who publicly endorsed perfumes. Bichara perfumes were her favorites.

 

Bichara's client included the playwright Edmond Rostand who called Bichara " the poet of perfume". Other notable clients were: Gabriel Faure, Gabriele d'Annunzio, and Edouard de Max.

 

 

 Bichara supplied the Royal Egyptian court. In the 1920s, he opened a luxury fashion shop in London, introducing "couture made perfumes". The company exported worldwide.

 

One of his finest perfume presentations was for the 1928 perfume Ramses II, in a tall, obelisk shaped bottle decorated with Egyptian hieroglyphs. The bottle was manufactured by the Cristalleries de Saint-Louis. This bottle is rarely found today and when it does surface, it commands high prices fit for a pharaoh himself. This bottle came in two sizes.



 

Another fine perfume presentation was for the perfume Myrbaha, launched in 1913, Baccarat bottle, frosted stopper in shape of pharaoh's head with grey patina. I have seen this bottle also used for Nirvana, Ambre, Yahvahna and Chypre perfumes. 5 7/8" tall. I have also had this stopper on a very rare pyramid shaped bottle before. The pharaoh's head stopper was most frequently seen on the bottle shape below, as well as the more rare pyramid shaped base.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 The pyramid based bottle held Myrbaha perfume, and probably the other scents too. I have had the fortune of owning this perfume bottle in the past and had sold it on ebay around 2002.

 

Early labels on cosmetics and perfumes, portrayed Bichara seizing the mythological Fortune by the hair with the inscription "Comment Bichara saisit la fortune" ( How Bichara grabs good fortune). An appropriate image since Bichara's original fortune was made on the hair product "Le Henne Bichara". The labels were redesigned in the 1920s by FL Schied in Art Deco style. Bichara also appeared on a Baccarat stopper portraying himself as an Egyptian pharaoh.

 

 Bichara Malhame died in 1930 and was succeeded by his daughter, Rose but the quality of perfume presentations declined and character of company changed, exemplified by Handle with Care in 1945. Bichara continued production into the 1950s.

 

 The "Intoxicating Perfumes" of Bichara:

 

 

  • 1913 Nirvana
  • 1913 Myrbaha
  • 1913 Yahvahna
  • 1913 Ambre
  • 1913 Nahila
  • 1913 Violette Des Damas
  • 1913 Ambre Egyptien
  • 1913 Ambre D'Abyssinie
  • 1913 Mokoheul (kohl eye makeup)
  • 1913 Eau de Roses de Syrie (skin freshener)
  • 1913 Roses de Syrie
  • 1913 Eau d'Albanie
  • 1913 Chypre de Limassol
  • 1913 Syriana
  • 1913 Therapia
  • 1913 Emirah
  • 1913 Fullah
  • 1913 Leila
  • 1913 Cillana
  • 1913 Sakountala
  • 1917 Saisit la Fortune
  • 1921 Cabiria
  • 1921 Rose Dame
  • 1921 Liliana
  • 1922 Delices de Pera
  • 1922 Bosphora
  • 1922 Gaudika
  • 1928 Ramses II
  • 1930s 8 Mai
  • 1945 Handle With Care
  • 1953 Viens


 

Some photos on this guide were provided by the following websites:

 

Passion for Perfume

Museu del Perfum

Rago Arts & Auction Center

ebay seller inartis

Please take a moment to check out their sites.




Vibert Freres Perfumes

Posted on May 22, 2010 at 7:34 AM Comments comments (0)

 

The Vibert Freres perfumery had an obscure beginning around 1772 in Lyons, France. The company remained a family business up until 1925 when it was acquired by Lanquest Freres. In 1889 Vibert Freres was advertised as a Parfumerie et Savonnerie located at 28 boulevard de Sebastopol, Paris and had another address in Seine.

 

Vibert Freres sold cosmetics, fine pomades, perfume oils, perfumes, eaux de cologne, soaps and toiletries and their company was situated at 60 boulevard de Sebastopol, Paris. They are best known for their hair lotion called "Petrole Hahn". The company produced charming perfume presentations and also created luxury perfume presentations for other companies.

 

 

 

They participated and won awards in the 1878, 1885 and 1889 Universal Exhibitions and was awarded the Grand Prix at the Exhibition in 1900.

 

 

 

The French artist, Pierre Brissaud created advertising for Vibert Freres. Their labels were produced by one of the most important producers of labels and graphics of the era, Sennet et Cie. The 1945 perfume Bruyere had it's bottle manufactured by Baccarat.

 

 

 

Wood Violet perfume 1900-1910


 

 

There isnt much info on this company and their perfumes are few and far between. I have listed all that I can find, if you know of one, please let me know. Thanks!


 

The perfumes of Vibert Freres:

 

 

  • 1925 Aimer
  • 1945 Bruyere

The following perfumes were found, but I couldnt locate their launch dates, but I gather they date to the late 1800s and into the early 1900s:

 

  • Muguet
  • Oeillet (probably 1930s)
  • Santal Chypre
  • White Violet
  • Amourette
  • Parfum Oriental
  • Aroma Lilas
  • Clochettes de Bonheur au Muguet (1880s)


Revillon Perfumes

Posted on May 22, 2010 at 7:07 AM Comments comments (0)

 

In this guide I have listed the various perfume produced by Revillon of Paris France.

 

Revillon was originally a furrier established in 1839 by Louis-Victor Revillon. Perfumes were first introduced in 1934.

 

The perfumes of Revillon:

 

  • 1935 Amou-Daria
  • 1935 Carnet de Bal
  • 1935 Egoiste
  • 1935 Latitude 50 degrees
  • 1935 Tornade
  • 1948 Cantilene
  • 1952 4 Vents
  • 1953 Detchema
  • 1960 Partner
  • 1977 Revillon Pour Homme
  • 1981 Turbulences
  • 1984 French Line
  • 1994 Anouchka
  • 1995 R
  • 1998 Eau de Revillon


Gres Perfumes

Posted on May 22, 2010 at 6:51 AM Comments comments (0)

 

Established by Germaine Emilie Krebs (born in 1910; died in 1993) Parisian sculpture and painter; known as Alix Barton and later as "Madame Grès", launched her design house under the name Grès in Paris in 1942.


The name Grès was a partial anagram of her husband's first name and alias; he was Serge Czerefkov, a Russian painter, who left her soon after the house's creation; closed during World War 11, re-opened in Paris in 1945. Signature fragrance launched in 1958. Sold to the British American Tobacco in 1981.


The perfumes of Gres:

 

  • 1930 Parfum Déesse
  • 1947 A
  • 1958 Cabochard
  • 1959 Chouda
  • 1965 Grès pour Homme
  • 1976 Quiproquo
  • 1980 Eau de Cologne Grès
  • 1980 Eau de Grès
  • 1981 Alix Grès
  • 1982 Grès Monsieur
  • 1984 Grès Monsieur Sport
  • 1990 Cabotine
  • 1996 Pastel de Cabotine
  • 1996 Homme de Grès
  • 1998 Folie Douce
  • 1999 Grain de Folie
  • 2000 Air de Cabochard
  • 2000 Cabochard, relaunch and reformulation
  • 2003 Cabaret
  • 2003 Cabotine Bleu
  • 2003 Cabotine Rose
  • 2004 Câline
  • 2004 Cabaret Pour Homme
  • 2006 Ambre de Cabochard
  • 2006 Fleur de Cabotine
  • 2007 My Dream Hommage a Marlene Dietrich
  • 2007 My Life Hommage a Marlene Dietrich
  • 2007 My Passion Hommage a Marlene Dietrich
  • 2008 Cabotine Delight
  • 2008 Goddess Hommage a Greta Garbo
  • 2008 Pastel de Gres
  • 2009 Cabotine Aquarelle
  • 2009 Cabotine Sensuelle
  • 2009 Mythos Hommage a Greta Garbo
  • 2009 Sphinx Hommage a Greta Garbo


Weil Perfumes

Posted on May 22, 2010 at 6:41 AM Comments comments (3)

 

Established by Jacques and Alfred Weil at 4 rue Sainte-Anne, Paris in 1892, originally  furriers; offically introduced fragrances in 1927 to be worn on furs.


During World War II, the furriers were forced to close their Paris company and escaped to the USA and opened a distribution and set up production at their perfumery called Societe Parfums Weil Paris, Inc., located at 745 Fifth Ave., New York.


Their French factory was confiscated by the Nazis and given to a German baron and his girlfriend. The baron registered several perfume names: Nuit de Fete, Filles de Joie, Tournant Dangereux, Pigeon Vole, and Flament Rose in 1943, followed by Fleur dans la Fourrure, Privautes, Grisailles, Escarpins, Coq A L’ane, Contre Jour, Cheritzou, Chamarade, Beau, Masque, Asence, and Padisha in 1944.


It has been said that these perfumes were never released to the public during the Nazi occupation except for Flament Rose. Padisha was created and released after the war when control of the company reverted to the Weil family.


All of Weil's perfume bottles were made by Baccarat from 1927-1954. 


In 1964 Parfums Weil was sold to an Algerian family, the Aboulkers who later sold it to Fashion Fragrances in 1989. Then sold to Classic Fragrances Ltd and sold to Cosmetiques et Parfums de France in 1991. In 1994, it was sold to InterParfums.


The perfumes of Weil:

 

 

  • 1920 Chinchilla
  • 1922 Padisha, relaunched in 1947, discontinued in 1963
  • 1925 Fleur pour la Fourrure
  • 1927 Chinchilla Royal, discontinued in 1963
  • 1927 Hermine, discontinued in 1940
  • 1927 Zibeline
  • 1929 Eau de Cologne Dix-Huit
  • 1931 Cent-Neuf
  • 1931 Eau de Santoline
  • 1931 Une Fleur, discontinued in 1941
  • 1933 Secret de Venus, reintroduced in 1962
  • 1934 Bambou, discontinued in 1955
  • 1935 Antilope, discontinued in 1948,but relaunched again
  • 1935 Carbonique
  • 1936 Cassandra, discontinued in 1969
  • 1936 Violette Victorienne
  • 1937 Noir, discontinued in 1969
  • 1941 Cobra
  • 1941 Un brin de lavande 
  • 1942 Bundles For Beauty
  • 1943 Grigri
  • 1944 Gentilhomme (La Lavande Gentilhomme), the renamed Un brin de lavande
  • 1948 Evettes
  • 1950  the Lavande Gentilhomme range was expanded to include a Lotion and a Secret de Venus oil formulation (called simply Lavande)
  • 1951Gentilhomme was replaced by the name Lavande Bleue.
  • 1953 Eau de Fraîcheur
  • 1962  Lavande Bleue was discontinued and replaced by Gentilhomme.
  • 1966 A new line of Gentilhomme was released and discontinued in 1983.
  • 1971 Weil de Weil
  • 1977 Chunga
  • 1978 Mollie Parnis
  • 1980 Weil pour Homme
  • 1980 Weil pour Homme Après-Rasage
  • 1986 Kipling
  • 1995 Fleur de Weil
  • Brin de Lavande
  • Flamant Rose
  • Watt

Padisha: Presented in a lightly frosted candle bottle, the stopper being the flame. Re-launched in 1947 and again in 1991

Vintage La Castillere French Scent Perfume Bottles

Posted on May 22, 2010 at 12:29 AM Comments comments (0)

 

This guide is about those mini perfumes that are marked Made in France on the base. These bottles are frequently found on the internet, but finding any sort of information about them is close to nil.

 

 

 

The bottles are almost always marked La Castillere and I believe these to come from one of the major perfume factories in Grasse France, the perfume capital of the world. Though I have seen labels on the boxes that mention Oberon, 9, Rue Scribe,Paris. Oberon was a French perfume company active in the 1920-1940s. From a 1939 ad: "Parfum Oberon. Three enchanting 2 Dram perfumes: Gaiety, Gardenia, On Top.  ... $1 PERFUME. Handcut crystal jewel applicator tops in Rose, Blue, Champagne color."

 

Since this is a purse size bottle, it may have been a souvenir type of perfume bottle to those who visited the perfumery in France and it could also have been sold to a American stores during the 1920s and an exported item for the general public.

 

These date to the 1920s-1940s.

 

The maker of these bottles is Pouchet et du Courval, a French glassworks who provided many perfume bottles to other companies. Their mark is an HP molded into the base. All decoration would be done at the glass factory. Many bottles are decorated with that silver overlay, hand painted enameling, or delicate etching. I have seen the majority of bottles in clear glass, and very rarely in milky opaline glass (opaline veritable) or blue.



 

Bottles usually had ornate silverplated caps with a glass dauber attached, sometimes the dauber is missing. I have had some luck polishing up the caps with a little bit of silver polish.

 

You might find the original boxes for the perfume sometimes. They are plain white cardboard covered with white paper or gilded paper and the label of the perfume's name, and a small felt or suede pouch that the perfume would have rested in.

 

Labels should be on the base of the bottle. It might say La Castillere Made in France and the perfume's name. Sometimes La Castillere France is embossed into the base of the perfume bottle.

 

The perfumes of La Castillere:

 

Chant d'Isles

Pomme d'Amour

Une Caresse


Jean D'Hennery Perfumes

Posted on May 21, 2010 at 10:46 PM Comments comments (1)

 

 

Jean D'Hennery is an obscure Parisian perfume company. They may have only sold their perfumes in France as I cannot find any references to them outside of France.


The perfumes of Jean D'Hennery of Paris France:

 

 

  • 1946 Chantaco
  • 1946 Dogaresse
  • 1946 Guittre-Amour
  • 1946 Kim
  • 1946 Languer
  • 1946 Magnificat
  • 1946 Mouky
  • 1946 Reconciliation
  • 1946 Reine de Saba
  • 1946 Retour
  • 1946 Reverence
  • 1946 Tendre Espoir
  • 1946 Toutounne
  • 1946 Triomphe D'Amour
  • 1953 Jasmy
  • 1953 Provoquant

 

Flask of "Jasmy" perfume,  Jean d' Hennery's. Paris.

 

© Henri Martinie / Roger-Viollet


Jean Desprez Perfumes

Posted on May 21, 2010 at 9:24 PM Comments comments (0)

 

 

Jean Desprez of 17 rue de la Paix, Paris; perfumerie established by Jean Desprez (1898 to 1973) the great-grandson of F Millot who created 'Crêpe de Chine'. Jean was a top class perfumer by profession who employed Paul Mergier to design the packaging for his products, and Leon Leyritz to design the bottles. Still a family run and owned business.


The perfumes of Jean Despres (Jean Desprez):

 

  • Kalispera (unknown launch date)
  • 1917 Jardanel
  • 1939 Etourdissant
  • 1939 Grand Dame
  • 1939 Scheherazade
  • 1939 Votre Main
  • 1947 40 Love
  • 1962 Bal A Versailles

Jean Desprez Bal A Versailles.

Schiaparelli Perfumes

Posted on May 21, 2010 at 9:05 PM Comments comments (0)

 Established at 27 place Vendome, Paris; Elsa Schiaparelli was born on 10th September 1890 in Rome and died on 14th November 1973 in Paris; she started off making fashionable knitwear, with her avant-garde style she was soon designing a wide range of clothes and accessories.


Launched her first perfume Shocking in 1936.


Company closed in 1954. Acquired by Benessere-Pikenz in c1973, re-launched fragrances.


There is tons of info on Elsa, in books and on the internet, it would be impossible to cram it all here.



 

The perfumes of Schiaparelli:

 

 

  • 1928 S
  • 1930 Jealousy
  • 1930 Duo
  • 1933 Flippant
  • 1933 Syncopate
  • 1933 Botticelliana
  • 1933 Shsh
  • 1934 Salud de Schiaparelli (Salut)
  • 1934 Schiap
  • 1934 Soucis de Schiaparelli
  • 1936 Floraison
  • 1937 Shocking
  • 1937 Le Six
  • 1938 Shocking in the Box
  • 1938 Sleeping
  • 1938 Beau Geste
  • 1939 Spin To Win 
  • 1939 Snuff
  • 1939 Set to Music
  • 1940 Shocking Scamp perfume brooch
  • 1941 Stage
  • 1941 Stunt
  • 1941 So Sweet
  • 1942 Silence
  • 1942 Spanking
  • 1943 Shocking Radiance
  • 1943 Sans Souci
  • 1945 Seraphique
  • 1946 Le Roi Soleil
  • 1946 Stratosphere
  • 1947 Sotto Voce
  • 1948 Vert Zut
  • 1949 Zut
  • 1949 Eau de Santé
  • 1950 Flirtation
  • 1950 Blessed Event
  • 1952 Sport
  • 1952 Succes Fou
  • 1952 Chloro-Cologne
  • 1956 Spring n’ Summer
  • 1957 Si
  • 1958 Voyageur
  • 1959 Scent of Mystery
  • 1977 Shocking You
  • La Fiesta
  • Gardenia

 

Si presentation.


Schiaparelli Perfume bottle Made in France is elegant, yet dainty. The beautiful flowers are graced with pink stones in their centers. The top is a screw top and works well. The bottle stands 2 5/8" tall and 1 3/4" wide by 3/4" deep.


Shocking Skin Radiance. Artwork by Salvador Dali.

Robert Piguet Perfume

Posted on May 21, 2010 at 3:32 PM Comments comments (0)

 

Born in Yverdon, Switzerland in 1901, Robert Piguet was the son of a banker. Although he trained to follow in his father's footsteps, he left for Paris at age 17 to study design.


For the next ten years, Piguet apprenticed at the house of Redfern and with Paul Poiret before establishing his ownhouse on the rue du Cirque in 1928. 


In 1933, he moved to the Rond-Point in the Champs Elysees.  Piguet's designes were intended for the petite, younger woman: perfectly cut dresses of refined simplicity. The numerous designers who worked for him at different times, illustrates the influence Piguet exercised in the fashion world: Christian Dior, who was made head designer in 1938, marc Bohan, Hubert de Givenchy, James Galanos, and Pierre Balmain. 


No longer able to withstand the rigorous schedules and activity of his profession, he closed his house and retired in 1951 where he died two years later in Lausanne.


 Launches first fragrance 'Bandit' in 1944. Sub-titled fragrances 'Societe d'Etudes et d'Expansion de la Parfumerie de luxe'. 


The perfumes of Robert Piguet, starting with the most recent:

 

 

  • 1974 Futur
  • 1963 Cravache
  • 1959 Calypso
  • 1952 Messanger
  • 1948 Estampe
  • 1947 Mimo
  • 1947 Rollon
  • 1947 Hirondelle
  • 1947 Dark Herald
  • 1947 Donna Sol
  • 1947 Esclave
  • 1947 Grande Epoque
  • 1947 Fracas
  • 1946 Visa
  • 1946 Brigand
  • 1946 Gambade
  • 1945 Fou
  • 1945 Dingo
  • 1945 Baghari
  • 1945 Visa
  • 1945 Cattleya
  • 1945 Augure
  • 1944 Bandit

 

In an article in the The Milwaukee Journal - Nov 10, 1948, designer Robert Piguet said that "There is an art to wearing perfume. The smartest dressed beauty is incomplete without the added touch of perfume to enhance her personality.  For the most intriguing effect, the lingering, haunting scent you can't quite capture - perfume should be sprayed on with an atomizer, creating a halo around the face and body, also around the hemline of petticoats and skirts. Tis is by far the most alluring and economical way to wear your perfume., for its fragrance is more lasting, intangible and magical. When you put a drop here and a drop there , you are hiding the true fragrance in a highly ineffectual manner."


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